Buying A Mustang

JD1964

there is enough sticking out to grab on to
15 Year Member
Jun 28, 2013
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Maryland
Hi everyone,

My name is John and I'm in the market for an F-body Mustang. I hope to find being a member of this forum helpful and I hope to contribute useful things whenever I can.

I'll be looking at an '89 this weekend. The main thing that concerns me at this point is rust. The seller showed me a picture of a rust spot on the bottom corner of the drivers door jamb. I've heard these cars can have rust issues around the torgue boxes of the rear suspension. The car has been painted at least once in its life. A tad of body rust does not concern me too much but rust in critical areas such as tq boxed does.

Considering the rear corner of the door jambs are just above the tq boxes, do you think the rust spot shown in the picture is a bad sign? Is it typical body rust only or a sign of something worse?

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That is significant. It looks to be completely rotted. I'd poke it w/ a screwdriver and see if I could push it through. If you can, then that area is done. It needs to be cut out. I'm sure that there is probably other places that are bad if you look. around the windshield/rear glass, the cowl area where the hinges attach, lower corners of the doors, and the trunk and main floors. IDK about the the torque boxes,....they are always beat to hell by the owner on the ones I've looked at, either by jacking the car up wrong,..or side stepping the clutch.
 
Looks like a rocker replacement is in the future of that car. I can guarantee it is coming from the backside/underneath, and there will be plenty more where that came from. It can be somewhat common in the rust belt, but I don't see that as often as the frame rails.

There is no connection between that spot of rust and the torque box, you will just have to get underneath and look.

Unless you want to get into body work/restoration, I would probably pass and try and find a cleaner car. That is certainly fixable, but rust repair is the one of the most involved and difficult (to do properly) parts of car restoration.
 
I agree the rust would worry me and lead me to inspect the underbody ASAP. If it is surface only, a little media blasting and rust paint might be fine. But it looks bad enough to dig deeper. No need for a flintstone mobile.

But I have to give you some flack. An F body is a GM car designation, I think for (gasp) a Camaro! A Fox body is a Mustang.
 
I agree the rust would worry me and lead me to inspect the underbody ASAP. If it is surface only, a little media blasting and rust paint might be fine. But it looks bad enough to dig deeper. No need for a flintstone mobile.

But I have to give you some flack. An F body is a GM car designation, I think for (gasp) a Camaro! A Fox body is a Mustang.


No problem for the flack. Correction ---- Fox body. I came here to learn. Looks like that's already happening. I'm not new to buying older cars in general, but this will be my first Mustang.

If I follow through and look at the car, I'll be real thorough. I plan on bringing a floor jack and jack stands. If the seller wants to balk at my attempt to get underneath, I'll do a 180 and head home. Thanks to everyone for your input.

BTW, I'm in central Maryland and looking for a good Fox body Mustang, preferably a 5.0 5spd LX hatchback but all would be considered as long as its 5.0 5spd. Ultimately, I want a fairly decent car. Mods are fine but not too heavy. Looking to spend 5-7k for something really worth it. Post back if you see anything up for grabs.

Thanks.
 
im in TX, so cars don't rust here. That being said: I know of early cars that have lived there whole life in DFW and have rust. Since the factorys started using galvanized metal in the 70s there was no more rust in cars from this area unless there was a brake line issue or something. I would run from a fox body with that much rust. if its that bad there, its worse where you cant see.
 
Breaking news.....

I believe I've found a 100% unmolested LX Hatchback 5.0 5spd with 50k miles. It's my price range too. I'll know by Sunday evening after I see the car in person. I'll keep you posted.

Thanks again for the help.
 
The rust you posted on that car is minimal for the northeast. It's also one of the most common places that these cars start to rust. That spot isn't to bad and is an easy fix. But I'd check the floor pans and front frame rails. Being in the northeast I'd check the bottoms of the doors


Yellow Bear racing 2k13
 
The rust you posted on that car is minimal for the northeast. It's also one of the most common places that these cars start to rust. That spot isn't to bad and is an easy fix. But I'd check the floor pans and front frame rails. Being in the northeast I'd check the bottoms of the doors


Yellow Bear racing 2k13


I wouldn't buy a rusted car regardless of where I lived. Especially considering that there are plenty of non rusted versions depending on where you are willing to go to get it.

Guess it all comes down to the bigger picture when deciding:

It'll take XXX number of days, and xxx number of dollars to fix my rusted ass car.
( and I'll still have a car that is rusty somewhere else)
or,

It'll take xx number of days, and xx number of dollars to drive to get one that isn't.
( And I won't have to spend xxx number of days, and xxx number of dollars scraping off undercoating)
 
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It's a 100% stock 92 with 53k on the ticker. Got it for 6k even. I talked him down slightly since the tires are dry rot and it needs front brakes.
Brakes worked fine but they're just worn. Not cosmetically perfect but pretty nice for a 21 year old car. Not a speck of body rust could I find and I looked extensively top and bottom.
It drove real nice but I couldn't get on it due to wet roads. No engine knocks or taps. Smooth idle, no smoke and exhaust smells about as clean as it should.
Left a deposit and going back on the 8th to pick it up and drive it home.
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