New Fox Owner :d

[Jarvis]

Hi I'm new to the forums and soon to be a Fox owner. I've been in love with them since i was a kid and finally am having my dreams come true. Picking up an 88 LX 5.0 Was wondering if you guys could give me some advice. Have several questions.

1. Shift points on stock 5.0?
2. Type of oil? I already know what brand i want just not the weight and such.
3. Limits of power on stock block? I've read/heard its around 400rwhp. Is that true?
4. Are their any gauge cluster swaps that anyone knows of? I've seen the white face replacement backings on latemodelrestoration. Just probably going to go faster than 85 at some point. Maybe a more accurate tach as well.
5. Mostly intersted in budget and cheap swaps. I've read the junkyard thread.

Any ideas are welcome! Thanks!

 

[FoxMustangLvr]

Hi I'm new to the forums and soon to be a Fox owner. I've been in love with them since i was a kid and finally am having my dreams come true. Picking up an 88 LX 5.0 Was wondering if you guys could give me some advice. Have several questions.

1. Shift points on stock 5.0?
2. Type of oil? I already know what brand i want just not the weight and such.
3. Limits of power on stock block? I've read/heard its around 400rwhp. Is that true?
4. Are their any gauge cluster swaps that anyone knows of? I've seen the white face replacement backings on latemodelrestoration. Just probably going to go faster than 85 at some point. Maybe a more accurate tach as well.
5. Mostly intersted in budget and cheap swaps. I've read the junkyard thread.

Any ideas are welcome! Thanks!

1. Shift points on stock 5.0? Depends on the mods of the vehicle you're purchasing but typically about 4800-5200 rpms i think
2. Type of oil? I already know what brand i want just not the weight and such. Depends on how old the motor is, 10w30 is probably safe
3. Limits of power on stock block? I've read/heard its around 400rwhp. Is that true? If you're all about budget and cheap swaps you won't meet or exceed the limit so no worries there.
4. Are their any gauge cluster swaps that anyone knows of? I've seen the white face replacement backings on latemodelrestoration. Just probably going to go faster than 85 at some point. Maybe a more accurate tach as well. Just find a GT cluster that goes to 14o mph I think.
5. Mostly intersted in budget and cheap swaps. I've read the junkyard thread.

If you haven't purchased the vehicle yet I'd check the torque boxs and floor pan for rips or stressing. Pull a plug, check the oil and make sure you take it out on a long test drive before handing over the dead presidents! Also check to make sure the title is not branded before paying.

One more thing, go to this website to plug in the VIN and make sure the car is an original V8 LX unless you already know it's a convert.

https://www.fleet.ford.com/maintenance/vin-decoder/

Good luck and post pics when you bring her home

 

[betke76]

congrats on the new fox, glad to see with all the nice mustangs ford keeps making that there is still lots of love for the classic foxbody. there is no doubt about the newer stangs are better in almost every category, but the foxes are a classic and never go out of style. they just have a certain feel to them (at least for me)is unmatched. easy bolt ons make a big difference. and stock blocks are usually good till roughly 450-500hp

 

[91TwighlightGT]

There are some differences in the gauge clusters between years...

From here...
http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-for...-to-140-mph-cluster-swap.482678/#post-4373374

It's not quite that simple. You have to know which cluster you're working with first.

There are two styles of clusters: '87-'89 (flat on the bottom, w/o airbag) and '90-'93 (concave on the bottom, w/ airbag). You cannot just plug a '90-'93 style cluster into an '87-'89 dash and expect all the gauges and lights to work correctly. The harnesses must be repinned. Or you can swap speedometers but some modifications to the speedometer itself and the housing must be done. Or you can exchange the 'guts' of the speedometers. Again, that requires (obviously) modifications.

The only 'Plug-n-Play' 140 MPH clutser for an '87-'89 dash is an '87-early '89 SSP cluster or a late '89 (non SSP) cluster. Late '89 SSP clusters had a 160 MPH speedometer (they are also P-n-P.) If the cluster in question is from an '89 GT or non SSP 5.0L LX (flat on bottom, w/o airbag) then yes, it will plug right in.

 

[Jarvis]

1. Shift points on stock 5.0? Depends on the mods of the vehicle you're purchasing but typically about 4800-5200 rpms i think
2. Type of oil? I already know what brand i want just not the weight and such. Depends on how old the motor is, 10w30 is probably safe
3. Limits of power on stock block? I've read/heard its around 400rwhp. Is that true? If you're all about budget and cheap swaps you won't meet or exceed the limit so no worries there.
4. Are their any gauge cluster swaps that anyone knows of? I've seen the white face replacement backings on latemodelrestoration. Just probably going to go faster than 85 at some point. Maybe a more accurate tach as well. Just find a GT cluster that goes to 14o mph I think.
5. Mostly intersted in budget and cheap swaps. I've read the junkyard thread.

If you haven't purchased the vehicle yet I'd check the torque boxs and floor pan for rips or stressing. Pull a plug, check the oil and make sure you take it out on a long test drive before handing over the dead presidents! Also check to make sure the title is not branded before paying.

One more thing, go to this website to plug in the VIN and make sure the car is an original V8 LX unless you already know it's a convert.

https://www.fleet.ford.com/maintenance/vin-decoder/

Good luck and post pics when you bring her home

1-5 Thanks!

I haven't purchased it yet. What do you mean branded title as in wrecked??
Car checks out pretty well. Motor was rebuilt 50k miles ago, has only been to the track once since then. Oil changed every 3k. Has new plugs and wires. The only mods are BBK CAI, BBK headers, BBK H-pipe, flowmaster cat back. Fresh paint job 8 months ago to black. Needs some interior work, 25 years of wear and tear.

 

[FoxMustangLvr]

Yes branded is another way to say salvaged/wrecked. People will lie and say it's clear and then you show up and it's another story after you fall in love with it (happened to me).

The car (from only looking at a picture) looks like it has an OK single stage paint job. Things to consider.....Did they properly de-trim the car when it was painted? If they didn't remove the rear quarter windows then the paint will flake off soon and leave you with needing another paint job. Look at the LX trim on the sides and see if the paint flows cleanly under them (means they took the molding off) or if you see where paint is filling the trim to panel gap that means they left them on and it will peel off soon too. Look through the cowl to where the windshield wipers are and look for over spray, if the car was not originally black you might find the old color still visible in there.

Looks like a clean car and I hope you will give it a good home it deserves.

 

[Jarvis]

Yes branded is another way to say salvaged/wrecked. People will lie and say it's clear and then you show up and it's another story after you fall in love with it (happened to me).

The car (from only looking at a picture) looks like it has an OK single stage paint job. Things to consider.....Did they properly de-trim the car when it was painted? If they didn't remove the rear quarter windows then the pain will flake off soon and leave you with needing another paint job. Look at the LX trim on the sides and see if the paint flows cleanly under them (means the took the molding off) or if you see where paint is filling the trim to panel gap that mean they left them on and it will peel off soon too. Look through the cowl to where the windshield wipers are and look for over spray, if the car was not originally black you might find the old color still visible in there.

Looks like a clean car and I hope you will give it a good home it deserves.

Well I definitely not getting it if its salvage title. Bank probably won't finance me(only reason I'm financing is to build credit, I have no credit. Good or bad) The trim is actually peeling just a little on the edge of the door. Not sure how normal that is. It is definitely black underneath. I'm assuming they didn't put them back on correctly? You can definitely see the old color. The engine bay and around the bottom of the hatch lid shows red with white primer covering most of it. Definitely would have done it differently if it was me.
Their is a tiny spot of rust on the inside of the hatch, on the back left. Any advice on that?

 

[betke76]

the rust you describe doesnt sound bad, sand it off immediately though so it doesnt spread. while your at it check the bottom of the doors,floorpans, torque boxes(where front bolt of rear control arms attach to the body) for rust and separation of the metal. if all of those are ok and title is really free and clear, then go ahead and buy it. just please dear god take that hood scoop off!!!

 

[Jarvis]

the rust you describe doesnt sound bad, sand it off immediately though so it doesnt spread. while your at it check the bottom of the doors,floorpans, torque boxes(where front bolt of rear control arms attach to the body) for rust and separation of the metal. if all of those are ok and title is really free and clear, then go ahead and buy it. just please dear god take that hood scoop off!!!

What grit and type of sand paper? The hood scoop....lol not a huge fan myself...but a new hood is $500. Maybe find a stock used one :/

 

[betke76]

it looks like thats a stock hood with the autozone stick on scoop. should pull off. just go slowly to not mess up the paint. as far as sandpaper start off heavier grit to remove the finish with a finer sheet to make smooth. dont know exact grit number,but there are plenty of talented people here on bodywork that may chime in. I am just smart enough to not attempt bodywork and leave it to professionals

 

[Jarvis]

Thats awesome, hopefully not too bad to pull off then.I'll look into some body threads. see if i can find anything.

 

[CarMichael Angelo]

Well I definitely not getting it if its salvage title. Bank probably won't finance me(only reason I'm financing is to build credit, I have no credit. Good or bad) The trim is actually peeling just a little on the edge of the door. Not sure how normal that is. It is definitely black underneath. I'm assuming they didn't put them back on correctly? You can definitely see the old color. The engine bay and around the bottom of the hatch lid shows red with white primer covering most of it. Definitely would have done it differently if it was me.
Their is a tiny spot of rust on the inside of the hatch, on the back left. Any advice on that?

You have a bank that will finance a "No credit" applicant on a 88 LX?

Better ck w/ them. I'm 55 (w/ plenty of credik history) and my C/U will only finance down to a 94. Hate to see you get your hopes dashed based on the confines of some banks lending guidelines

Regardless,...It doesn't take much to turn a clean title into a salvage title on these cars. (Just ask your ins agent how much you'll get if the car is totaled) All it takes in the cars last 10 years of history is an impact hard enough to hurt fenders/hood/bumper, w/ no structural damage and your car is totaled. So,......as opposed to throwing one away that was otherwise save-able.........I would've fixed it too.

While it is admittedly not as desirable as a clean title,...it ain't the end of the world either. That's why you buy the car fax.

 

[FoxMustangLvr]

Well I definitely not getting it if its salvage title. Bank probably won't finance me(only reason I'm financing is to build credit, I have no credit. Good or bad) The trim is actually peeling just a little on the edge of the door. Not sure how normal that is. It is definitely black underneath. I'm assuming they didn't put them back on correctly? You can definitely see the old color. The engine bay and around the bottom of the hatch lid shows red with white primer covering most of it. Definitely would have done it differently if it was me.
Their is a tiny spot of rust on the inside of the hatch, on the back left. Any advice on that?

It's normal for the trim to start to curl after time (LateModelResto has a how to video for replacing them). It's easily replaceable but you may will have to match paint it. Grit of sand paper for rust depends on where it is and how bad. Take a picture of it and it can be discussed further. There are no "body/paint" sections on this site but there is some basic knowledge you can pick up on other sites. I'm currently doing body and paint on my 5.0 and you can ask me what ever you may need. I'm no pro but i'm good enough to do a decent paint job. The hood scoop may or may not come off easy, depends if they put it on and then shot the hood or shot is separate and then stuck it on. You'd have to ask the owner.

How much are you buying this car for?

 

[Jarvis]

You have a bank that will finance a "No credit" applicant on a 88 LX?

Better ck w/ them. I'm 55 (w/ plenty of credik history) and my C/U will only finance down to a 94. Hate to see you get your hopes dashed based on the confines of some banks lending guidelines

Regardless,...It doesn't take much to turn a clean title into a salvage title on these cars. (Just ask your ins agent how much you'll get if the car is totaled) All it takes in the cars last 10 years of history is an impact hard enough to hurt fenders/hood/bumper, w/ no structural damage and your car is totaled. So,......as opposed to throwing one away that was otherwise save-able.........I would've fixed it too.

While it is admittedly not as desirable as a clean title,...it ain't the end of the world either. That's why you buy the car fax.

Yes loan is already good to go, (I'm going through USAA.) just waiting for the seller. >_<

It's normal for the trim to start to curl after time (LateModelResto has a how to video for replacing them). It's easily replaceable but you may will have to match paint it. Grit of sand paper for rust depends on where it is and how bad. Take a picture of it and it can be discussed further. There are no "body/paint" sections on this site but there is some basic knowledge you can pick up on other sites. I'm currently doing body and paint on my 5.0 and you can ask me what ever you may need. I'm no pro but i'm good enough to do a decent paint job. The hood scoop may or may not come off easy, depends if they put it on and then shot the hood or shot is separate and then stuck it on. You'd have to ask the owner.

How much are you buying this car for?

I'll check out the trim video. I'll also get a pic of the rust, thanks. I'll definitely get back to you about it. I'll also see about the hood as well. I'm paying $4000.