Direction I Should Go With My Build?

[ry94stang50]

Ok I was thinking about going the trick flow setup. I was going to buy the whole kit. Now I'm kind of thinking about going with gt40 heads and a better intake setup. Then down the road adding a supercharger or turbo. So what would be the pros and cons of each setup is one going to bring more power then the other?

 

[stykthyn]

why not trick flow and then super/turbo charge later anyway?

 

[reldla1996]

TF will make a lot more power than the GT40. The only con to the TF is that it will cost more than the GT40.

 

[Grabbin' Asphalt]

One thought I've always had was with the GT40p iron heads or any bad ass iron head, is if they're ported REAL well and you put a power adder on it. If you ever had a boom go wrong, the iron heads could take more of a beating and you could live to fight another day. Believe aluminum melts around 1100 degrees and iron at 2100 degrees.

 

[madspeed]

Iron heads tend to lift under high boost, fyi

 

[Grabbin' Asphalt]

Iron heads tend to lift under high boost, fyi

How does a heavier head lift more??? I have no experience with any power adder so don't be slack with knowledge

 

[madspeed]

lack of clamping force due to thin deck surface

 

[90lxwhite]

Realistically it all boils down to $. The gt40 plus forced induction will probably cost more in the end once you get all the supporting hardware. Here's another gt40 scenario to think about: say you save up I dunno like $1000 for the gt heads and intake of your choice u get em on and while you're trying to save another 3-4k clams for the poweradder you'll more than likely run into one or several other mechanical snags that come along w driving a 20 yr old car so there you are w financial set backs and gt40 heads and the saving cycle continues. On the other hand I guess the same could be said while waiting and saving up for the tfs topend. I think for reliability n longevity I'd go w the topend kit though. It's rough out there for a poor ole dreamer like myself

 

[David Pepiton]

I would go with the trick flow setup far superior to the GT40 stuff and be close to 300 whp where with the gt40 takes a lot more to get to the 300 mark but can be done.

 

[Grabbin' Asphalt]

lack of clamping force due to thin deck surface

Is that with extreme mods, I've heard of many people who put a power adder on a stock 5.0. with iron heads. Not that is smart supporting mods but seems the block goes first, ...no??

 

[madspeed]

most if not all of the iron heads have a relatively thin deck to them, which is fine in an engine built for longevity not max power. Most of the aftermarket aluminum heads have around 3/4" deck height, which equates to more meat for your head bolts or even better head studs to clamp down on, meaning less prone to lift when boosted

 

[madspeed]

I would guess that with a properly built engine with a good tune, regardless of heads, with the stock block, you're more likely to split the block than lift a head

 

[90lxwhite]

I doubt this guy is concerned w splitting the block or lifting heads. Sounds like he's saving to do a build that will get him around the magic 300 rear horse mark. I'd venture to say that most folks saving for an engine build aren't going to save long enough to make 600. The saver and scroungers bank account will split long before his block

 

[madspeed]

but.... he did say he planned on addng a blower or turbo down the road

 

[84Ttop]

One thought I've always had was with the GT40p iron heads or any bad ass iron head, is if they're ported REAL well and you put a power adder on it. If you ever had a boom go wrong, the iron heads could take more of a beating and you could live to fight another day. Believe aluminum melts around 1100 degrees and iron at 2100 degrees.

When we melt aluminum heads, they just go to the machine shop to get welded, no big deal. I melted a hole out the side of one not to long ago and for a few hundred dollars it was welded and remachined good as new. Same applies to aluminum blocks, they can be welded and repaired where cast iron can't. Just my 2 cents

 

[90lxwhite]

but.... he did say he planned on addng a blower or turbo down the road

When I was a kid I planned on being a pro ball player. I'm now a 140 lb 31 yr old

 

[Grabbin' Asphalt]

When we melt aluminum heads, they just go to the machine shop to get welded, no big deal. I melted a hole out the side of one not to long ago and for a few hundred dollars it was welded and remachined good as new. Same applies to aluminum blocks, they can be welded and repaired where cast iron can't. Just my 2 cents

People with non-DD's and money. Course putting boost on a stock block is a DD's time bomb anyways.

 

[Rick 91GT]

I say add the power adder with a better intake and enjoy the car....then save for a DART based long block setup.

Sent from my XT907 using Tapatalk 2

 

[90lxwhite]

I say add the power adder with a better intake and enjoy the car....then save for a DART based long block setup.

Sent from my XT907 using Tapatalk 2

It'd cost em more to go that route than it would to buy a topend kit. He'd have to purchase gt40 heads lets say a conservative 500 dolla, then some intake-600, then supercharger kit 3k +

 

[90lxwhite]

If he's spending that kind of $ he'd prob be better off paying $3,800 for the ford racing crate motor. Yes he wouldn't make the 300 hp at the wheel as he would or might w a topend kit but he'd have a new bottom end as well. Better yet here's an idea: buy the "economy" short block from latemodel and then purchase the tfs topend. Any of the options listed in this entire thread would put him in the $4k range but at least w the Eco shortblock and topend he'd have all new parts. If I could "like" my own post I would, this is the best idea I've had yet