Best Cast Iron Heads

Where are you finding TFS 170's for $1,000-$1,100 a pair?

Lets also keep in mind that the TFS are known to need a little work on the valve train right out of the box. I wouldn't be surprised if you were into them $1,500-$1,600 by the time you were done.


$1100 NIB at LMRS my friend before any discounts.

http://www.latemodelrestoration.com...gle-shopping&gclid=CLOCgZbHl7kCFeRj7Aod5loAUQ

Your Price: $1,119.99
Brand
Trick Flow
Part Number
# TFS-51400002M61
Product Description
Trick Flow® patented Twisted Wedge® 170 performance aluminum cylinder heads feature Trick Flow® revolutionary "twisted wedge" combustion chambers to build more midrange and top-end power without sacrificing bottom-end torque. Here's how it works: Trick Flow® engineers rotated the valves and moved them over the center of the cylinder bores. This optimizes the valve angles and the combustion chamber shape to dramatically boost airflow and allow for a more complete combustion of the air/fuel charge. And, unlike other brands, Trick Flow® Twisted Wedge® heads are the only aftermarket heads that can run 2.020 in./1.600 in. valves with stock, unmodified pistons and performance camshafts with up to 0.550 in. of lift. The Twisted Wedge® series heads are built for heavy-duty use, too. They have 0.560 in. thick combustion chamber walls and fire decks for added strength without a loss of cooling capacity, plus additional support risers in the water jackets for increased head gasket integrity. The Twisted Wedge® 170 heads are designed to be performance replacements for stock Ford heads and are 50-state emissions-legal on 1996 and earlier 289, 302, and 351W Fords (CARB E.O. #D-369-12). All Twisted Wedge® series heads work with most OEM and aftermarket intake and exhaust manifolds/headers. The heads come fully assembled and ready to install right out of the box with stainless steel valves (intakes are backcut for improved flow), valve springs, locks, retainers, ARP rocker studs, and guideplates. Bare cylinder head castings are also available.

Brand: Trick Flow Specialties
Manufacturer's Part Number: TFS-51400002
Cylinder Head Style: Assembled
Cylinder Head Material: Aluminum
Combustion Chamber Volume (cc): 61cc
Intake Runner Volume (cc): 170cc
Exhaust Runner Volume (cc): 66cc
CNC-Machined Intake Runner: yes
CNC-Machined Exhaust Runner: No
Intake Valve Diameter (in): 2.020 in.
Exhaust Valve Diameter (in): 1.600 in.
Maximum Valve Lift (in): 0.540 in.
Outside Diameter of Outer Spring (in): 1.470 in.
Number of Springs Per Valve: Single
Rocker Arm Studs Included: Yes
Rocker Arm Nut Thread Size: 3/8-24 in.
Rocker Arms Included: No
Rocker Arm Nuts Included: No
Guideplate Pushrod Size: 5/16 in.
Accessory Bolt Holes Drilled: Yes
Intake Valve Angle: 15
Exhaust Valve Angle: 17
Oiling Style: Through pushrod
Machined for O-Ring: No
Heat Crossover: Yes
Quantity: Sold as a pair
 
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Very cool. Now all one needs are their head bolt reducers (that don't come with the heads) to run them on a 302 block and a set of stud mounted roller rockers to top it all off. Like I said....up around $1,500-$1,600 by the time all is said and done.

Just a valve job. TFS heads actually come with good quality valves. Should run you around $200 to get a 5 angle valve job done on them.

Kurt
From what I understand, the springs are no hell either. Alright for mild to moderate camshafts, but nothing really high end. But then I guess the heads aren't really high end either, so it might be a moot point?
 
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Very cool. Now all one needs are their head bolt reducers (that don't come with the heads) to run them on a 302 block and a set of stud mounted roller rockers to top it all off. Like I said....up around $1,500-$1,600 by the time all is said and done.

I believe all twisted wedge heads come with stepped head bolt holes. They'll do 302 bolts, and then if you want to do 351 bolts you just drill them the rest of the way out. At least, that's how they were when I bought my 205s.

From what I understand, the springs are no hell either. Alright for mild to moderate camshafts, but nothing really high end. But then I guess the heads aren't really high end either, so it might be a moot point?

I think that just goes for most entry-level heads. If you're serious about making power, you're gonna make sure your springs are good for your cam, anyway.
 
Very cool. Now all one needs are their head bolt reducers (that don't come with the heads) to run them on a 302 block and a set of stud mounted roller rockers to top it all off. Like I said....up around $1,500-$1,600 by the time all is said and done.


From what I understand, the springs are no hell either. Alright for mild to moderate camshafts, but nothing really high end. But then I guess the heads aren't really high end either, so it might be a moot point?

You're going to need/want new rockers with any performance head so that cost is a constant whether you are buying new or used. I've never heard of anyone needing to do a valve job on them out of the box on TFS heads. The springs on the TFS are good for most mild to mid level street applications. .540 lift. We are talking about an entry level head, not the top of the food chain. Your costs for including RR is not entirely fair.That is not the cost of the head itself and unless you buy a used set with RR, you'll need those too


I buy and sell used parts all the time, but only if they are for a price corresponding to the fact they are used. Paying $800-900 for a set of used Ebrocks or TFS heads makes no sense to meCase in point, I've looked at about half a dozen sets of used heads in the past two months and each one either had bent valves, had cracks, or were off engines that lifted a head gasket and were warped. The sellers all wanted 700-900 for them. If you are buying a set of used heads, you know you are going to want to have them cleaned up and checked. You may need new guides, a few valves, a valve job. possibly springs if the ones are not set up for your cam so add anywhere from 200-400 for that. IMO it's not worth the gamble saving a potential 1-200. Add the cost of new guides, springs, milling, and a valve job and I doubt you are saving anything.
 
They don't NEED a valve job, but pretty much any aftermarket aluminum heads picks up a little bit with a good valve job. I think all the aluminum heads are set up for 1/2" head bolts (351 size). You can run them with stock 7/16" bolts though.

As for the valve springs, a TF170 is an entry level head, and would be best matched with an entry level cam anyway. If you want a big whopping cam, go for a bigger head.

If you are looking for a good Iron head, I used to run Windsor Jr.s way way way back in the day. They worked very well. Managed to run a 12.9 with those heads, a cobra intake, Steeda #18 cam, and 1.72 rockers in a foxbody. I drove that car 20,000 miles every year. I wouldn't bother with the Sr heads. They have a bigger valve, which is just a hassle to work with. It really wouldn't be suited for daily duty. Old high ports command a lot of money, because there is a lot of nostalgia in those heads. It's also a more serious head which in my opinion wouldn't be great for a daily driver.

Kurt
 
I have never ever had any quality problems with Trickflow. They make a top notch product and really stand behind there stuff! My out of the box TFS R's made 1075rwhp. With stock ports, runners and chambers (I changed exhaust valves and retainers) we easily made 1327 rwhp. That should say something!
 
I believe all twisted wedge heads come with stepped head bolt holes. They'll do 302 bolts, and then if you want to do 351 bolts you just drill them the rest of the way out. At least, that's how they were when I bought my 205s.



I think that just goes for most entry-level heads. If you're serious about making power, you're gonna make sure your springs are good for your cam, anyway.

I'm pretty sure mine were the same way. Think they had to be drilled for the 1/2" studs.
 
You don't even need the step washers. Just bolt them on.

Kurt
Meh....I don't like the idea of the head bolts dancing around on the top of the head when the heat is on. The step washers are a necessity in order to maintain proper torque on the head at all times. At only $40, you'd be foolish not to run them....if for no other reason that piece of mind.
 
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The ARP washers are wide enough to hold them down. The dowel holds the head in place, not the bolt. 10 years ago, no one even knew what step washers were. It's something someone invented for a problem that didn't exist to make money.

Kurt