Electrical Testing A Clutch Safety Switch

[KDK1988GT]

Hey guys just wondering the best way to test my cutch safety switch thanks....

Would I un-plug one connector then press the clutch pedal down and test the connection that's un-plugged ?

Thanks...

 

[HISSIN50]

Put a DMM lead on each side of the switch (switch is disconnected first). Set the meter to check continuity (small scale). With the switch open it should read OC. With the switch closed it should read under 5 Ohms.

 

[KDK1988GT]

Put a DMM lead on each side of the switch (switch is disconnected first). Set the meter to check continuity (small scale). With the switch open it should read OC. With the switch closed it should read under 5 Ohms.

perfect just did the test switch is bad...

Just going to bypass the switch for now until I get a new one... Just used two 20 amp fuses to complete the circuit. Or should I have smaller fuses something like 10 amp's??

Thanks again

 

[HISSIN50]

You used two fuses? The CSS is just one switch (one fuse is all that's required). IIRC, on the CSS, there are two wires going into one terminal and one wire going into the other.

Too large of a fuse size should not matter - you're just using fuses because they fit nicely (there's nothing about that portion of the circuit that needs any actual additional protection).

FWIW, one common issue is that the switch gets out of adjustment and the clutch needs to be pushed really hard [to close the switch]. If you had the switch out and tested it, this was probably moot, but for in-car testing, it might be an issue (since it's a pain to get under there to test anything). The switch has some adjustment.

Good luck.

 

[KDK1988GT]

You used two fuses? The CSS is just one switch (one fuse is all that's required). IIRC, on the CSS, there are two wires going into one terminal and one wire going into the other.

Too large of a fuse size should not matter - you're just using fuses because they fit nicely (there's nothing about that portion of the circuit that needs any actual additional protection).

FWIW, one common issue is that the switch gets out of adjustment and the clutch needs to be pushed really hard [to close the switch]. If you had the switch out and tested it, this was probably moot, but for in-car testing, it might be an issue (since it's a pain to get under there to test anything). The switch has some adjustment.

Good luck.

Yes I used two fuses one for each connector that went into the switch a black one and gray one.

Yes I used the fuses because of the fit nicely

Well I think I did get it tested right it was in the car... and like you say it's a pain to get under there...

To adj the switch what is the procedure to do that?

 

[HISSIN50]

It's been awhile.... I seem to recall that one can manipulate the plastic slider on the back of it. I think putting the clutch pedal through the floor 'adjusts' the switch and then you have to put it that deep to start the car. Re-setting the adjuster fixes that need (till the pedal is put through the floor again).

 

[KDK1988GT]

It's been awhile.... I seem to recall that one can manipulate the plastic slider on the back of it. I think putting the clutch pedal through the floor 'adjusts' the switch and then you have to put it that deep to start the car. Re-setting the adjuster fixes that need (till the pedal is put through the floor again).

That would make sense to me I put a new clutch setup on the car... no cable went with a hydraulic setup so I'm sure the petal probably went to the floor quite deep with no cable hooked to it at some point... So I will try re-setting the adjuster if I can figure it out...