Water Pump Bolt Broke Off Inside (with Pictures)

This is where a mark of a pencil line/pen line on your distributor shaft base/block would come in handy, along with a mark to line up the rotor on the distributor wall under the cap. Until you could get a replacement timing pointer.
Also I got ARP water pump and timing cover bolts as well as anti seize

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what am i doing wrong? i dont think this thing is big enough maybe but my uncle said it was plenty big enough when he lent me it
 
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That's the wrong style puller for a balancer and you risk damage if you use it.

If you have a Autozone or Advance Auto local go rent the correct tool...ask for a harmonic balancer puller.

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That's the wrong style puller for a balancer and you risk damage if you use it.

If you have a Autozone or Advance Auto local go rent the correct tool...ask for a harmonic balancer puller.

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do you know of any video that has a demo ? i dont understand how it works
 
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^^^^BAM!!!!

i was able to rent this one before they closed, i just match up the rig
 
Measure the distance the balancer is from the timing cover, so you will know the approximate distance when you go to reinstall it. Spray some pb blaster on the balancer (sometimes you need to heat up the balancer around the crank) and REMOVE THE BALANCER WASHER when you removed the balancer bolt or you will snap off the removal tool bolt in the crank snout.

When you take of the timing cover, make sure to get the two front oil pan bolts on the bottom, and be careful not to tear the pan gasket. I would inspect and replace the front seal on the cover as cheap insurance. Inspect the timing cover for warpage, rust, or pitting. They are aluminum and often leak. You will need to remove the old timing cover gasket and clean the mating surfaces- brake clean, some gasket scraper, or straight razors work. If the lower pan gasket it fairly new and is the rubber kind, you can get away with reusing it. Stuff a rag or cover the exposed pan opening to avoid getting any gasket of crap in the pan. If the pan gasket is old, ripped or cork. cut the front pieces off and buy new cork pieces. Make sure all of the gasket surfaces are squeaky clean,

Might as well check the timing chain while you have the timing cover off for slop or broken teeth. Better to replace it now than doing this job twice. Test fit the timing cover and pan gaskets- you'll need to trim them. Set the new gaskets with Blue RTV on both sides of the gaskets and put a blob of RTV in the corners of the pan gasket. Let it set up. Reinstall the timing cover

When you go to reinstall the balancer, check to see if the rubber inuslator is sticking out or if the outer ring has shifted. They are cheap and you should repalce it if damaged. If the crank snout is a little nicked up or has gunk on it, lightly take some emery and buff it out. Also, I would stick the balancer in an oven for a 1/2 hour or so at 300, and lightly oil the crank snout. Align the keyway and push it on with your hand as far as it will go, making sure it is straight. Use the installer bolt tool to reinstall the balancer, when the balance is fully installed, reinstall the original bolt and torque it to 90-100 ft lbs. Do not use a hammer or impact gun to install the balancer.
 
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Measure the distance the balancer is from the timing cover, so you will know the approximate distance when you go to reinstall it. Spray some pb blaster on the balancer (sometimes you need to heat up the balancer around the crank) and REMOVE THE BALANCER WASHER when you removed the balancer bolt or you will snap off the removal tool bolt in the crank snout.

When you take of the timing cover, make sure to get the two front oil pan bolts on the bottom, and be careful not to tear the pan gasket. I would inspect and replace the front seal on the cover as cheap insurance. Inspect the timing cover for warpage, rust, or pitting. They are aluminum and often leak. You will need to remove the old timing cover gasket and clean the mating surfaces- brake clean, some gasket scraper, or straight razors work. If the lower pan gasket it fairly new and is the rubber kind, you can get away with reusing it. Stuff a rag or cover the exposed pan opening to avoid getting any gasket of crap in the pan. If the pan gasket is old, ripped or cork. cut the front pieces off and buy new cork pieces. Make sure all of the gasket surfaces are squeaky clean,

Might as well check the timing chain while you have the timing cover off for slop or broken teeth. Better to replace it now than doing this job twice. Test fit the timing cover and pan gaskets- you'll need to trim them. Set the new gaskets with Blue RTV on both sides of the gaskets and put a blob of RTV in the corners of the pan gasket. Let it set up. Reinstall the timing cover

When you go to reinstall the balancer, check to see if the rubber inuslator is sticking out or if the outer ring has shifted. They are cheap and you should repalce it if damaged. If the crank snout is a little nicked up or has gunk on it, lightly take some emery and buff it out. Also, I would stick the balancer in an oven for a 1/2 hour or so at 300, and lightly oil the crank snout. Align the keyway and push it on with your hand as far as it will go, making sure it is straight. Use the installer bolt tool to reinstall the balancer, when the balance is fully installed, reinstall the original bolt and torque it to 90-100 ft lbs. Do not use a hammer or impact gun to install the balancer.
 
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The easy out broke right as I tried to hammer it in. I didn't even begin to twist it yet
Hammer? You don't hammer the easy out into the stripped bolt. You first use a center punch, then drill out the bolt to the size of the easy out. The easy it is a reverse thread to remove the bolt.
Watch this video that shows the proper way to use the tool.

 
Hammer? You don't hammer the easy out into the stripped bolt. You first use a center punch, then drill out the bolt to the size of the easy out. The easy it is a reverse thread to remove the bolt.
Watch this video that shows the proper way to use the tool.


I watched that exact video.
You see the part where he taps it in with a hammer? I did that and it broke off the tip into the hole I pre drilled
 
Hammer? You don't hammer the easy out into the stripped bolt. You first use a center punch, then drill out the bolt to the size of the easy out. The easy it is a reverse thread to remove the bolt.
Watch this video that shows the proper way to use the tool.



I definitely hit it harder than that tho because the first time when I started to spin it in came off so I thought I should hit it in the hole slightly harder
 
Drill bits and easy outs are extremely hard and cannot be removed by ordinary means. It takes a solid carbide bit and extreme care to remove a broken drill bit or broken easy out. Now it is tow time to the automotive machine shop and pain in the wallet..:(