Rear Control Arm Choices: Arms Vs Bushings

Those same words went through my mind as I read that but anyway....


Mike... Have you settled on an estimated torque and HP range for this monster?
When I decided on the engine,..I had no idea it was capable of the numbers I'm seeing, but evidently a turbo makes up for alot of the engines short comings. The head was the problem,...requiring a major restructuring of the inatke and exhaust mating flanges, and a complete custom induction and exhaust from there.

That changed today when i bought the Australian Crossflow head. The head is still probably only good to 5500-6000 rpm, and for my purposes,..that'll be fine.

All this to say that I'm seeing guys making high 300's to low 400 HP numbers at like 4400, w/ a blow through carb on a log intake..and close to 450 RWTQ starting at 2700 rpm because of the 3.91 stroke. I'll be injected if that's worth anything.

What's that got to do w/ the control arms,..well every thing. I will cave into either a Steeda, or UPR street set w/ solid lowers and adjustable uppers.
 
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When I decided on the engine,..I had no idea it was capable of the numbers I'm seeing, but evidently a turbo makes up for alot of the engines short comings. The head was the problem,...requiring a major restructuring of the inatke and exhaust mating flanges, and a complete custom induction and exhaust from there.

That changed today when i bought the Australian Crossflow head. The head is still probably only good to 5500-6000 rpm, and for my purposes,..that'll be fine.

All this to say that I'm seeing guys making high 300's to low 400 HP numbers at like 4400, w/ a blow through carb on a log intake..and close to 450 RWTQ starting at 2700 rpm because of the 3.91 stroke. I'll be injected if that's worth anything.

What's that got to do w/ the control arms,..well every thing. I will cave into either a Steeda, or UPR street set w/ solid lowers and adjustable uppers.

I think that under those conditions, I would definitely opt for control arms with "street" and "durability" in mind. I'm not so sure that an adjustable upper is the way to go unless you're willing to do the extra to get the angle setup correctly. The other thing that comes to mind is the little bit of extra ability to have to adjust height with adjustable spring perches.

I'm sure you've read through the disputes about MM vs. Steeda already. In my mind, either of these two companies is going to give you everything you could ask for in a control arm setup. Unless you're going to be banging gears at the weekend track, then the extreme duty are not necessary. Just don't get into the frequent mistake of ordering up a combination of end bushings that's going to cause you 4-link suspension bind on what will amount to a daily driven application.

MM recommends SN95 upper control arms with OEM style rubber bushings in combination with their lower control arms. Steeda recommends uppers and lowers with their 3-piece bushings on all ends for the DD.

I think either setup will give you the handling and durability that you're looking for.

You gotta make the call on whether adjustable uppers are what you need for this app or not.
 
I think that under those conditions, I would definitely opt for control arms with "street" and "durability" in mind. I'm not so sure that an adjustable upper is the way to go unless you're willing to do the extra to get the angle setup correctly. The other thing that comes to mind is the little bit of extra ability to have to adjust height with adjustable spring perches.

I'm sure you've read through the disputes about MM vs. Steeda already. In my mind, either of these two companies is going to give you everything you could ask for in a control arm setup. Unless you're going to be banging gears at the weekend track, then the extreme duty are not necessary. Just don't get into the frequent mistake of ordering up a combination of end bushings that's going to cause you 4-link suspension bind on what will amount to a daily driven application.

MM recommends SN95 upper control arms with OEM style rubber bushings in combination with their lower control arms. Steeda recommends uppers and lowers with their 3-piece bushings on all ends for the DD.

I think either setup will give you the handling and durability that you're looking for.

You gotta make the call on whether adjustable uppers are what you need for this app or not.

I was only thinking for adjustability in pinion angle because of my plans to dump the car. I have coil overs for the rear, and will probably end up 2" lower than stock.
that said,..I was planning on UPR. The street set w/ an adj upper is right around 300.00
 
I was only thinking for adjustability in pinion angle because of my plans to dump the car. I have coil overs for the rear, and will probably end up 2" lower than stock.
that said,..I was planning on UPR. The street set w/ an adj upper is right around 300.00


Well being the knit picky, critical... er... I mean the DETAIL oriented, conscientious kind of hobbyist that you are, be sure to provide a good writeup on those UPR pieces when you have it all up and running.

I'm curious to know how those things do in a daily.
 
Well being the knit picky, critical... er... I mean the DETAIL oriented, conscientious kind of hobbyist that you are, be sure to provide a good writeup on those UPR pieces when you have it all up and running.

I'm curious to know how those things do in a daily.
Well,..guess you shouldn't wait up for a "detailed" write up w/regard to a set of adjustable UPR arms used in my G.M.
I did buy a complete set of arms from UPR, but, bought the straight forward, non-adjustable set from them direct for 300.00 with housing bushings.
It's one of the things that sticks in my throat,....As I just can't see how there will be any benefit realized from a set. Of arms like these on a 100% street driven car.
 
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Well,..guess you shouldn't wait up for a "detailed" write up w/regard to a set of adjustable UPR arms used in my G.M.
I did buy a complete set of arms from UPR, but, bought the straight forward, non-adjustable set from them direct for 300.00 with housing bushings.
It's one of the things that sticks in my throat,....As I just can't see how there will be any benefit realized from a set. Of arms like these on a 100% street driven car.


Well if the setup in that car is anything like the setup in a Mustang (I say that for purpose of "duh"), then the rigidity alone should make a pretty good difference even if only on the way to the Piggly-Wiggly for a sixer.
 
Probably true. I grew up in Steeda country. I had many a over the desk converations with Dan at Steeda. He's an actual engineer that knows what he's talking about. I remember when their sales office was a little hole between the two installation bays.

Kurt

Steve use to sit at that little wooden desk right at the garage door. Steve has his own shop in New York now. First time I went to Steeda was in 1988 when my friend destroyed his turbine 15" GT wheel. Steeda had pallets of them. Then in 1991 when I bought my 90LX they did the 3:73 gears in 15 minutes in that little shop. I've spent over $10,000 there easy over the past 20 years. Was there for there party when they opened the new World Headquarters.
 
Steve use to sit at that little wooden desk right at the garage door. Steve has his own shop in New York now. First time I went to Steeda was in 1988 when my friend destroyed his turbine 15" GT wheel. Steeda had pallets of them. Then in 1991 when I bought my 90LX they did the 3:73 gears in 15 minutes in that little shop. I've spent over $10,000 there easy over the past 20 years. Was there for there party when they opened the new World Headquarters.

You going to do the Steeda Run next month to Moroso or whatever they call it these days?