Want to really find the answer to your question?
If yes, first fix all the codes the computer spits out unless they refer to equipment not installed on the car.
Then....
Get one of your buddies to ride along with you. Find a level stretch of road where you can do some testing. Watch for the wind speed and direction, it can have a definite impact on your test results.
Don't choose a speed range that will make you shift gears, the shift quality & speed will affect your results. Use 2nd or 3rd gear and do a run from 2000 RPM to 5800 RPM. Call out the RPM as it increases and have your buddy record it and the elapsed time. If you have one of those cheap digital watches like I do, a stop watch is built in.
Put the part on, wither it is a 65 MM TB, or whatever and then dump the codes. Fix all the codes unless they refer to equipment not installed on the car.
Then...
Get one of your buddies to ride along with you. Find a level stretch of road where you can do some testing. Watch for the wind speed and direction, it can have a definite impact on your test results.
Don't choose a speed range that will make you shift gears, the shift quality & speed will affect your results. Use 2nd or 3rd gear and do a run from 2000 RPM to 5800 RPM. Call out the RPM as it increases and have your buddy record it and the elapsed time. If you have one of those cheap digital watches like I do, a stop watch is built in.
Compare the results and you'll have a real world answer of what it does for YOUR car...
This isn't easy or real cheap, but it is very accurate if you are careful of things like air temp, wind direction and speed and a using flat stretch of road. A little disciple in how you do the tests can be very rewarding.