SN95 Does Anyone Use Stage 8 Locking Header Bolts?

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I use the Stage 8s. On the 1 and 3/4" Leonard headers the d clip fittings will work. On the 1 and 5/8" primary headers make sure you get the finger ends. They are a little bit of work to get on, but work very well.

Kurt
 
Thanks for the great answers, guys! I see there's more options than I thought. Madspeed, I like how the Proform bolts work, I'm just wondering if you had trouble putting them in tight spaces where they are difficult to access. I've read that 12-point bolt heads can make for easier installs. Does anyone here use or have experience with the ARP bolts?
 
Nope.
Hardware store allen head bolts with lock washers here.
Never a leak.

Bingo. I've used SS allen head bolts with lock washers for years. Tighten them up and then once more after a few heat cycles and never worry about them again. 1" for iron heads, 3/4" for alum. Stage 8 are a PITA to get the clips on and twice the amount.
 
They arent any more difficult than any regular header bolt. 12 point would be a bit better if your planning on removing them much, but i sure dont!

You can make shorter turns with the wrench with the 12-points, which comes in handy in tight spots. Especially in the PITA area's nearest the firewall, and inside radius bolts on the 1 and 5 cylinders. That's not to say the 6-points are a bust, but if given the choice, the 12-point bolts are far easier to work with.

1" for iron heads, 3/4" for alum.
I'd actually recommend 1" bolts in either head. I've got the 3/4" bolts in my GT40X's, with the BBK LT's and I'm lucky if I'm getting 3-4 threads inside the head. Makes me very nervous tightening them down. I actually had to pick up a 1" bolt to even get my dipstick into the stock mounting point as the 3/4" bolt wouldn't even start.
 
Depends on how big your primaries are. If you have 1 and 3/4" primaries, you have to use the open end of the wrench, the box end won't fit. In such case, a 12 point bolt won't work.

Kurt