Heads Are Off.........images And Thoughts On Piston

[hoopty5.0]

yeah the trick flow upgraded kit is $199 so i'm guessing Ed's will be 400? I will call him tommorow if i remember.

what will be different about his springs in relation to my car and it not being a race, non track car, or better yet what would be the advantages of paying double?

I do plan on when I need to, rebuilding to possibly a 331 and might at that time let him port my heads or sell them and get another set, not sure. I'm more likely to work with what I have

You need to call someone who does cams and stuff for a living (comp, bullet, fti, etc) and tell them what you have, how you drive it, and ask them to recommend something. Actually, I just saw that you have a crane cam listed in your sig - Call them. The worst thing in the world is mis-matched parts and that applies to valve springs too.

 

[revhead347]

Crane has good customer service.

I wouldn't remove the pulley to paint it. It requires a special tool, and everytime you remove it it wears the shaft a little more. I would mask it all off, and paint it right where it is.

Kurt

 

[from6to8]

Crane has good customer service.

I wouldn't remove the pulley to paint it. It requires a special tool, and everytime you remove it it wears the shaft a little more. I would mask it all off, and paint it right where it is.

Kurt

i actually borrowed the tool from advance. I wanted to paint the entire bracket though and when i go back outside i will see about the possibility of painting it as it stands in engine bay without having to remove the hose and therefore refill the system and bleed it. I might try and use a thick metal brush on paint as i think its less likely to get on things but i will see.

also, i removed 2 bolts, actually one and loosened the 2nd bolt, the 2 thats one up top and the other lower below the top bolt. As I loosened the 2nd, it seems the bracket started moving as if there isnt a 3rd bolt in there but im sure it has to be. Is it more near the battery to the right of the bottom bolt somewhere?

 

[from6to8]

You need to call someone who does cams and stuff for a living (comp, bullet, fti, etc) and tell them what you have, how you drive it, and ask them to recommend something. Actually, I just saw that you have a crane cam listed in your sig - Call them. The worst thing in the world is mis-matched parts and that applies to valve springs too.

well i am not changing the cam if you think i was because i was going to call Ed. Instead I was going to call him about their upgraded springs and tell them what all i have. Truth be told though, I won't spend double upwards of 20o bucks on a set of springs so the TF ones from summit for 200 will do. I want to call Ed to see what he says about why his spring will be better than the TF upgraded ones and thats if he say any he has will even work with my setup.

i wouldnt see why the upgraded TF wouldnt work but to double check i will call trick flow again tommorow and also Crane to verify. I am for now keeping the E cam until I rebuild and do possibly a 331. Even if i did a 306 with a SC i might then still get a custom cam. I will also ask them all about upgrading the cam later on and using the upgraded TF springs with the next setup.

 

[mikestang63]

what about the hose that's connected to the power steering pump if I want to remove the whole power steering bracket to paint the pulley that hose would need to be removed but I don't want to open the system so do I have to just remove the pulley itself

I mean I know I have to remove the bracket any way to remove the head but I still want to paint that pulley

leave the hose connected. You do not need to disconnect either PS hose to remove the bracket or the pulley. The bracket comes off with 1 long bolt through, and the pulley needs a special puller/installer which you can rent from most auto store.Then you can remove the bracket from the pump as the bots are behind the pulley. Measure the distance from the pulley to the pump for when you resintall to achieve proper alignment.

 

[from6to8]

leave the hose connected. You do not need to disconnect either PS hose to remove the bracket or the pulley. The bracket comes off with 1 long bolt through, and the pulley needs a special puller/installer which you can rent from most auto store.Then you can remove the bracket from the pump as the bots are behind the pulley. Measure the distance from the pulley to the pump for when you resintall to achieve proper alignment.

there are 2 long bolts that i took off today, took one off and the other i noticed it seemed as if it would allow the bracket to come off but i thought someone said it was actually 3 bolts for the bracket but i guess its 2. Yeah i will probably do just that so i can spray paint the pulley and bracket easily. If i dont take the pulley off i will just brush paint it

 

[from6to8]

As for the studs on my Mac shorty headers I should be ok taking them to the hardware store and matching them up right?

They are rusted some , might just be the overall coloration of rust but not physically rusted or i guess badly rusted but i guess i will maybe get some stainless if they don't cost too much

 

[revhead347]

Ace hardware carries all those header studs in there hardware section. They are the only ones I know of that do. They do not have them in stainless. You can also order them from Mac. I have had to order stud kits from BBK before; I assume Mac would do the same.

Kurt

 

[from6to8]

Crane has good customer service.

I wouldn't remove the pulley to paint it. It requires a special tool, and everytime you remove it it wears the shaft a little more. I would mask it all off, and paint it right where it is.

Kurt

I believe my heads have the O ring machined in them so I would need this Head gasket?

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/fel-1006/overview/

 

[revhead347]

If you have a receiver groove, you do need those gaskets. However, if the heads are going to the machine shop, then you can get that fixed. That locwire gasket setup is a rip off. The machine shop should be able to insert a permanent lock wire into the head, so that you don't have to keep spending $140 on head gaskets every time you take them off. With a permanent lock wire in the head every one will tell you that you can't use a standard head gasket any more. I can assure you that is not true. I've been setting up engines like this since before they offered those Locwire gaskets.

There is a special procedure for installing those lockwire gaskets. I am not familiar with it since I never use them.

Kurt

 

[hoopty5.0]

Spending extra on valve springs when not needed is like towing a jet ski with an f550. It'll work, but it's overkill. Save your money for better parts elsewhere

 

[from6to8]

Spending extra on valve springs when not needed is like towing a jet ski with an f550. It'll work, but it's overkill. Save your money for better parts elsewhere

Everyone has told me to get the upgraded TF springs and were saying that's why maybe TF offers the upgraded springs as an option because maybe they are better off????????

Also said that springs failed for a reason an best to just replace them all

 

[from6to8]

If you have a receiver groove, you do need those gaskets. However, if the heads are going to the machine shop, then you can get that fixed. That locwire gasket setup is a rip off. The machine shop should be able to insert a permanent lock wire into the head, so that you don't have to keep spending $140 on head gaskets every time you take them off. With a permanent lock wire in the head every one will tell you that you can't use a standard head gasket any more. I can assure you that is not true. I've been setting up engines like this since before they offered those Locwire gaskets.

There is a special procedure for installing those lockwire gaskets. I am not familiar with it since I ne
ver use them.

Kurt

I will talk to the machine guy wen I take them and see about cost associated with thatand such. I wonder y TF made some without the O rings n some with anyway? Same heads

How much are regular gaskets?

 

[hoopty5.0]

I agree they should all be replaced, Im just saying you don't NEED to spend the extra money if you can avoid it. Use what you can to get by for now. By the time you get around to building a 331, either you'll have enough miles on the springs to change them again anyways or youll change cam and need to match the springs to the cam.

 

[from6to8]

quote="hoopty5.0, post: 8794049, member: 167987"]I agree they should all be replaced, Im just saying you don't NEED to spend the extra money if you can avoid it. Use what you can to get by for now. By the time you get around to building a 331, either you'll have enough miles on the springs to change them again anyways or youll change cam and need to match the springs to the cam.[/quote]
I understand wat you are saying. I will call Trick Flow and ask them some questions gona see wat diff in price is and stuff? Ask them y or wats all the possibilities of that spring failure......they should be honest lol

 

[from6to8]

If you have a receiver groove, you do need those gaskets. However, if the heads are going to the machine shop, then you can get that fixed. That locwire gasket setup is a rip off. The machine shop should be able to insert a permanent lock wire into the head, so that you don't have to keep spending $140 on head gaskets every time you take them off. With a permanent lock wire in the head every one will tell you that you can't use a standard head gasket any more. I can assure you that is not true. I've been setting up engines like this since before they offered those Locwire gaskets.

There is a special procedure for installing those lockwire gaskets. I am not familiar with it since I never use them.

Kurt

i called the machie shop and Don said that he can Mil the surface and it would probably take about .35 if I'm quoting corrrectly. He said it would cost about 100 bucks and that would take the heads down to 59 or 58 cc.

So i'm not sure which i will do and i will contact trick flow if i decide to keep the heads the way they are and ask them about the special procedure. I didnt read anything in my paperwork though about that procedure

 

[revhead347]

Valve springs are matched to the cam. Different grinds are going to require different springs. You are better off calling the cam grinder instead of TF.

Kurt

 

[from6to8]

Valve springs are matched to the cam. Different grinds are going to require different springs. You are better off calling the cam grinder instead of TF.

Kurt

ok Kurt. I guess since i didnt buy the heads first and matched the cam since i am in this situation now that would be the best thing to do? I will call crane this morning and see what they say and what they say about options to get the springs and numbers to give the folks whereever I m going to get them from.

I also heard that K motion and PAC springs are good and this guy told me to give him my specs of the head and he can set me up good but i'm going to call crane still also

 

[from6to8]

And Kurt, can you go to big of a spring for a certain setup? As in my setup with my 302 bottom end, TF Heads with the Crane (E clone), Edel performer rpm 2. I know Hoopty was trying to save me money but I'm just asking as far as trying to possibly not have to spend money twice and just going with a better spring now possibly for a 331 setup. This is a question for you and/or Hoopty, not leaving you out Hoopty lol.

Now if it's smart to just wait later on to match the cam for the 331 with springs then I will do just that. I'm asking because I don't know and trying to make the best decision but also want to do it correctly and not play chasing tails lol.

 

[revhead347]

Ask the cam manufacturer those question. They are going to be able to give you better advice than I will.

Kurt