sounds good.Ask the cam manufacturer those question. They are going to be able to give you better advice than I will.
Kurt
Thanks
sounds good.Ask the cam manufacturer those question. They are going to be able to give you better advice than I will.
Kurt
just called Crane and gave him trick flow's installed height which is 110 lbs @ 1.800" and he said i need something at least 150 on the seat and 360 open as the numbers for the cam calls for 154 and 363. He told me to call trick flow and see if they have a spring thats rated for those numbers and if they didnt, that possibly Crane themselves would have something that might come close. Someone is working on seeing if he has anything in the K-motion or PAC springs that would work alsoAsk the cam manufacturer those question. They are going to be able to give you better advice than I will.
Kurt
from yesterday:Any thread that goes into the water passage has to have thread sealer. In some engines the bolts do not go into the water passages, and do not need thread sealer.
I'm honestly not qualified to give advice on springs. With the information you have, you should be able to find a usable spring. It is not uncommon for the company that makes the cam to not make a spring for it. Especially Crane which has a very limited amount of production. I usually don't buy too many generic Summit products. It's hard to tell where they are made. A lot of their generic stuff comes from China, and a valve spring is the last thing you want to get from China. China makes almost everything out of recycled metal, and there is no guarantee that metal meets the standards required to have a flexible spring. I would call Lunati and Comp cams and see if they have a spring that will work. You can also call Trick Flow and see if they have a recommendation.
Kurt
pretty much nuts and bolts to loosen/remove or are there any lines attached to the condensor that will need to be removedYou can get the cam out and back in with the engine still in the car. You have to move the condensor out of the way and pull it all the way up to the bumper though.
Kurt
well that would require someone holding it up though right lol? or not? If I could move to the side i guess that would be better but i will know later on when i start messing with it. I'm bout to go out in bout an hr and start cleaning the block and stuff up.You can usually raise it up high enough to pull the cam without disconnecting any hoses. The connections swivel, and the hoses are flexible.
Kurt
gotcha.I remember pulling it when I was a novice. You could hold up the condensor up with a bungee chord.
Kurt
I actually have a chilton but sometimes would rather hear it from the horses mouth on experiences with certain things. Sure i could google as well or look in the book but sometimes just ask any ole question on a forum. Sometimes i discover the answer on my own before folks get back to ya but its all goodYou really need a chilton or Haynes manual. That's how I learned before I knew what forums were aside from trial and error
i have a regular magnet, long oneI used to have a tool that I got from Anderson ford Motorsports that had a magnet on the end with a wingnut. Slide it down till the magnet latched onto the lifter and then used the nut to pull it out. This was 20 years ago and can't remember all the details but I'm sure it's still available or equivalent
so will they pull right out with a magnet. Regular long magnet?Yes, the lifters have to come out first. Be careful pulling the cam out. go slow as to not scrape the bearings with the cam lobes.,
Kurt