Build Thread Want To Blow 5 Years And $50k On A Foxbody? Step By Step Instructions Inside!

So I was re-checking all the tables in the PMS. For some reason I had +18 in the water temp table at -10 degrees. I remember troubleshooting a cold running issue with my old setup and that may be how I was trying to solve it. That +18 was adding a ton of fuel with the engine cold. Explains why everything was flooding out.

The other problem I noticed is that the PMS is displaying -30 degrees for the air temp sensor. I pulled off the plug and installed another new (auto parts store) sensor. Still read -30 degrees. I shot it with the heat gun and it still didn't changed. I held the heat gun to the water temp sensor and it went from 54 degrees to 60 degrees in seconds. I obviously have some issues I have to figure out. Not sure why it doesn't work with two brand new sensors. That makes me a bit concerned. Time to do some EEC troubleshooting.
 
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You probably already have this, but heres the ecu pinout

uploadfromtaptalk1391483737782.jpg
 
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Thank you sir. I test my voltages at the EFI panel I have so I use a cross-reference to find the right spots to test. That is helpful for testing the computer pins though.

So, there is definitely a problem with the ACT. I am not getting any voltage across the sensor pins. When I check the ECT voltage, I get 3.5V, which is right on par for around 50 degrees. I checked the resistance on the ACT sensor without it hooked up and the numbers checked out. About 55k ohms in the garage and the resistance kept dropping when I brought the sensor in the house. So, it appears there is a wiring problem. I'm going to bypass the PMS to make sure there is nothing in that box of magic messing things up and then go from there. I checked the computer itself when disconnected and got 18.6k ohms for both the ACT and ECT sensors with pin 46 as a ground reference. I 'think' that tells me that the computer itself is okay.
 
So I was re-checking all the tables in the PMS. For some reason I had +18 in the water temp table at -10 degrees. I remember troubleshooting a cold running issue with my old setup and that may be how I was trying to solve it. That +18 was adding a ton of fuel with the engine cold. Explains why everything was flooding out.

The other problem I noticed is that the PMS is displaying -30 degrees for the air temp sensor. I pulled off the plug and installed another new (auto parts store) sensor. Still read -30 degrees. I shot it with the heat gun and it still didn't changed. I held the heat gun to the water temp sensor and it went from 54 degrees to 60 degrees in seconds. I obviously have some issues I have to figure out. Not sure why it doesn't work with two brand new sensors. That makes me a bit concerned. Time to do some EEC troubleshooting.
How do you like the PMS? I've contemplated using it myself. If starting from scratch would you use it again or go with a standalone?
 
How do you like the PMS? I've contemplated using it myself. If starting from scratch would you use it again or go with a standalone?

I like it a lot. If I were to do it all over again and money or time wasn't an issue, I would probably go with a standalone system. I like the idea of adding modern features like coil packs and cam sensors to these engines. Allows for more tuning capabilities, but can create more problems due to added complexity. I already have a somewhat decent grasp on the PMS, so I didn't feel like learning a brand new system. A PMS can be had used on the classifieds for around $500 these days. They have come down in price a good bit over the past few years.
 
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Sorry for the constant questions, but you are doing a few of the same things I'm trying to do....

Anyways, did you by any chance figure out how to wire up the low fuel light and Check Engine light? The pinouts don't specify the CE light feed for 87-89 even though my stock cluster has one. And the low fuel has a pin out for the relay and the warning, do you know if i have to somehow utilize both or just one?

Again, sorry for the questions. Im sure I will have more. Florida 5.0 and MC Machine aren't very forthcoming with wiring information, not that i blame them.
 
I'll have to check my diagram later tomorrow and let you know which pin I used for the CEL. My aftermarket EFI wiring is based off 91 factory wiring, so it may be different. I can't help you with the low fuel light though. I don't have one. I didn't really find it necessary to have a light when I can just keep an eye on the gauge. I'll never allow my sumped tank to get low enough to activate a light anyway.
 
Yeah its looking like i might have to say goodbye to the warning light. More of a headache than its worth.

The 89 pinouts I'm seeing seem to have an error in one of the wires, so I'm second guessing a lot of this information, might have to spend a few hours with a test light.
 
Afaik the sd carz dont have a functional engine light, the bulbs there but nothing to turn it on, so I wouldn't be surprised if it wasn't in the 87/88 diagram, but I can try to find it in my 89 diagram when I get home. ...if I can remember to do it
 
I think i might have figured it out, Its just labeled as "Warning Lamp Test Circuit". I traced it out on the back of the cluster and low and behold, it went right to the Check Engine light.

Also found the seat belt light is labeled as "Coolant Level Relay" by tracing that out as well.

Ironic part is that I pulled the check engine bulb years ago when i eliminated the EGR. Now that im looking to sell it, i cant find the damn socket anywhere, lol.
 
No updates lately. I haven't touched the car in 2 weeks. Been quite busy with the weather up here. I also got rid of my car and purchased an Explorer, so I've been busy dealing with that as well.

I do have a special delivery coming by the end of the week hopefully. I'll take some pictures when the packages show up!
 
So I was re-checking all the tables in the PMS. For some reason I had +18 in the water temp table at -10 degrees. I remember troubleshooting a cold running issue with my old setup and that may be how I was trying to solve it. That +18 was adding a ton of fuel with the engine cold. Explains why everything was flooding out.

The other problem I noticed is that the PMS is displaying -30 degrees for the air temp sensor. I pulled off the plug and installed another new (auto parts store) sensor. Still read -30 degrees. I shot it with the heat gun and it still didn't changed. I held the heat gun to the water temp sensor and it went from 54 degrees to 60 degrees in seconds. I obviously have some issues I have to figure out. Not sure why it doesn't work with two brand new sensors. That makes me a bit concerned. Time to do some EEC troubleshooting.


I don't think it's your EEc man. I think you have a harness/wiring problem someplace and getting either stray voltage or grounding out.


Edit: Meh... I hate it when I walk into a thread and read what appears to be the last post, only to discover that there's another dozen after. :doh:

Who's running this zoo anyway? :shrug:
 
Time to start the lottery based on the "getting a special delivery by end of week" tease.

Hmmmm.............. What does the man that has everything need, especially since the car he'd need it for is mostly complete.:chin

Clues:

He's looking for packages, so they won't be the rest of the painted body parts.

He's already got a stinkin' lift.

If it's for the car,...I'm voting interior based stuff.

I'm going w/ seats.