Mustang 5.0 Procomp Qualifier Upper Lower
- Thread starter Devin Smith
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It's a Chinese rip off of an Edelbrock. The casting will be poor, and the ports won't match up. You can get a used Edelbrock for less, so why would you buy one?
Kurt
Kurt
flstang65
10 Year Member
An intake by itself isn't going to net you much of anything. You'll lose a little on the low end so it may affect your times negatively.
If you're looking to pick up some cheap power your best bet is to do some of the common free mods and look into swapping your rear gears
If you're looking to pick up some cheap power your best bet is to do some of the common free mods and look into swapping your rear gears
My point being that you aren't going to increase performance by changing the MAF, TB, injectors, CAI etc enough to warrant changing them by themselves.
Both the heads and intake are very restrictive on these cars and changing the intake only kills bottom end ( obviously depending on which you go with) you may notice a little up top on the SOTP dyno, but until you look into swapping the H/C as well, you won't get much of an answer to "how will it affect my ETs".
I only say it because I've done it myself.
24# injectors, CAI, 76mm MAF/TB and a TFS track heat on an otherwise stock car was disappointing at best. Learned the expensive way.
Both the heads and intake are very restrictive on these cars and changing the intake only kills bottom end ( obviously depending on which you go with) you may notice a little up top on the SOTP dyno, but until you look into swapping the H/C as well, you won't get much of an answer to "how will it affect my ETs".
I only say it because I've done it myself.
24# injectors, CAI, 76mm MAF/TB and a TFS track heat on an otherwise stock car was disappointing at best. Learned the expensive way.
eh. thanks
It was an E7 stock headed 302. Which is my point. Not trying to talk down to you in any way, I can't see any mods in your sig so I'm not sure what you've already got.
I just had this on a another thread but here is the list.
4.10 ford racing gear
· Lakewood 50/50 rear shocks
· C4 transmission with shift kit and servos 2800 stall
· Cold air Intake
· 76mm C&L mass air
· 70 mm BBK throttle body and egr spacer
· MSD coil
· MSD cap and rotor
· MSD 8mm spark plug wires
· BBK shorty headers 2.5’
· BBK off road H Pipe 2.5’
· Flow Master super 44 mufflers 2.5’
· Hurst quarter stick shifter
· Energy suspension poly motor mounts
· Centerline warrior rims with MT skinny’s and MH 26x10.5x15 cheater slicks
· Ford racing Ac delete
· Smog pump delete
· Front sway removed
· Timing bumped to 14 degrees
· Electric fan
· BBK under drive pulleys
· Frame connectors
· Hurst roll control
Zex dry nitrous kit with 75,100,125 shot jets
4.10 ford racing gear
· Lakewood 50/50 rear shocks
· C4 transmission with shift kit and servos 2800 stall
· Cold air Intake
· 76mm C&L mass air
· 70 mm BBK throttle body and egr spacer
· MSD coil
· MSD cap and rotor
· MSD 8mm spark plug wires
· BBK shorty headers 2.5’
· BBK off road H Pipe 2.5’
· Flow Master super 44 mufflers 2.5’
· Hurst quarter stick shifter
· Energy suspension poly motor mounts
· Centerline warrior rims with MT skinny’s and MH 26x10.5x15 cheater slicks
· Ford racing Ac delete
· Smog pump delete
· Front sway removed
· Timing bumped to 14 degrees
· Electric fan
· BBK under drive pulleys
· Frame connectors
· Hurst roll control
Zex dry nitrous kit with 75,100,125 shot jets
Looks like a good platform but a 99% stock motor. Nothing wrong with that, but choosing heads is gonna be based on a lot of variables. What the cars purpose is, power goals, budget. I'd go aluminum at the least for the weight savings
I know your not talking me down that's why i'm on here. i'm looking for advice and trying to learn from peoples mistakes. i really appreciate good advice.
ya im on a budget build looking for deals as they come. my car is a bit of street mostly track. but remember im in Canada so we only get 4 months of play time.
For your setup I'd look for some used alum heads. Preferably TFS or AFR. Some other ones are the ford gt40x alum(I'm not as big of a fan of these). There are some iron heads out there also(explorer gt40p,world products,etc) but again I'm even less of a fan of these. IMO the best head option for a budget factory shortblock is the tfs 170cc heads. If you're resourceful you can find a good used example around 750$. New ones run around 1100-1200$ then you'll need roller rockers,pushrods,gaskets,bolts,etc and a new cam to maximize the combo. A good H/C/I with supporting mods and a tune can knock 1-1.5 sec off a 1/4 mile et. Once youre past the usual boltons(basically where you are) this is the only way to increase performance drastically. Unless you were going to add forced induction (turbo/supercharger)or nitrous(which you have). It's all about getting air/fuel in and out.
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