SN95 Paint?

ry94stang50

Member
Jun 21, 2013
427
12
19
Brick, NJ
Now that the weather is warm I have to get ready for paint. All workwill be done by me. I have experience. Any suggestions on paint and primer? What brand should I look out for? I want to go with a BC/CC system.
 
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Now that the weather is warm I have to get ready for paint. All workwill be done by me. I have experience. Any suggestions on paint and primer? What brand should I look out for? I want to go with a BC/CC system.


I've never had any problems doing auto paint with PPG. Many people will say this because it's true, a good paint job is less about quality of paint as it's more about quality of prep and finish work. Great prep with OK paint will always look better and outlast OK prep work and the most expensive paint you can buy. Rustoleum and House of Kolor are probably pretty good too. I've only painted with PPG single stage and BC/CC and have no complaints about price and quality.

What color are you thinking about? Are you going down to bare metal or is this a respray?
 
I'm not 100% sure on color. I've got it down to three choices. A dark metallic blue. (Like the new stangs not sure on the name of color) "Grabber blue with black graphics to break up the blue or just a respray of the factory deep forrest green or a variation of that color. Maybe more flake in it.
I've heard a lot about ppg. And also onow all about the prep work being flawless. I only have experience with napa auto primer both regular and high build. Now after priming I have to seal it before paint correct? And if I decide to go with the grabber blue it will be a single stage since there is no flake in the paint.
 
if you have some experience painting.....a single stage is a lot less work,and prep dosnt have to be so precise....and you dont have to seal before paint if foundation is decent...
 
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a single stage is a lot less work,and prep dosnt have to be so precise

Explain the not so precise prep work?

Single stage is less work than bc/cc but everything you do before you shoot color should not change. I know bc/cc will show flaws a lot easier but this doesn't mean you get to slack off any because somebody is using single stage. The standard of quality of work never changes in my opinion.

@ry94stang50 if you choose single stage, PPG Concept is the way to go.
 
Explain the not so precise prep work?

Single stage is less work than bc/cc but everything you do before you shoot color should not change. I know bc/cc will show flaws a lot easier but this doesn't mean you get to slack off any because somebody is using single stage. The standard of quality of work never changes in my opinion.

@ry94stang50 if you choose single stage, PPG Concept is the way to go.
single stage is clear and paint in one,and being a solid color you dont have to prep it as fine as you would with base clear......for a novice that wants to try to do it himself ,blasting it one shot single stage is the way to go,because if not prepped properly it can turn into a head ache fast...cheaper also...
 
I respectfully disagree @smkshw .For all novices or anybody, prep should always be the best you can make it, regardless of single stage or bc/cc.

All dents, scratches, wavy body panels, pits and imperfections should be fixed perfectly. If you can still see a flaw, even if it's tiny, it will only be magnified after a few coats of paint (SS or bc/cc) and look even worse.

Line up all body panels i.e, hood, trunk, doors, gas door etc. before doing any body work.
Fix all dents and imperfections. sand with 180-220 grit before primer. primer will fill in sand scratches.
Use a good quality 2k high build primer
block sand & primer a couple times or until it looks good, guide coat, block sand the guide coat 400-600 grit
Ready to shoot color.

There is obviously a lot more details than this. I'm just giving a summery of general prep work.
 
I respectfully disagree @smkshw .For all novices or anybody, prep should always be the best you can make it, regardless of single stage or bc/cc.

All dents, scratches, wavy body panels, pits and imperfections should be fixed perfectly. If you can still see a flaw, even if it's tiny, it will only be magnified after a few coats of paint (SS or bc/cc) and look even worse.

Line up all body panels i.e, hood, trunk, doors, gas door etc. before doing any body work.
Fix all dents and imperfections. sand with 180-220 grit before primer. primer will fill in sand scratches.
Use a good quality 2k high build primer
block sand & primer a couple times or until it looks good, guide coat, block sand the guide coat 400-600 grit
Ready to shoot color.

There is obviously a lot more details than this. I'm just giving a summery of general prep work.
i agree completely,ive been painting cars for 16 years,high end cars to boot....im not saying paint over all the dents and imperfections,and aligning fenders and body work is another issue completely,just saying for the average novice single stage is more forgiving than base clear thats a fact....im very picky in my prep work and i know what to look for.....but the average guy dosnt.....lets just say prep it realy good then...lol,
 
if you go PPG, use the DBC line. costs more than their Shopline, but has more pigment and better coverage. we are exclusive to PPG at our shop, so i may be a little bias, but hey, whats wrong with that? lol
i use rm, glasurit!....its the best!...lol...no its good,but ppg is good also,coverage is better....
 
@smkshw @cenok is family @ry94stang50

What guns are you guys using to spray color? I have a conventional siphon feed by DeVilbiss and a hvlp finishline FLG4 by DeVilbiss. Haven't used the FLG4 yet but i'm sure i'll be happy once I do get to it. Didn't want to spend more for the Tekna or Iwata but now that I have a little more money I might trade up for the Tekna

My stuff is strictly for at home painting for cars.
 
im still using my sata nr2000 hvlp...theres better ones out there for water borne paint but mine still gets the job done....i use a devilbiss plus for clear...
 
we use separate anest iwata lph-400's for metallics and solids, and anest iwata ws-400 evo supernovas, designed by Pininfarina, for clears. we use top of the line guns because we do this for a living. if you spring the dough for the ws-400, you will never need another gun, ever. the inlet pressure required to spray a 15" pattern is 10psi at the cap, which translates to about 20-25 psi at the inlet. they are guaranteed to have 100% consistency throughout the entire pattern or they will give you a new gun. the newest supernova's are the only guns on the market right now that will allow you to spray both water or solvent based paints through them.
 
Another option for materials would be RM Diamont, a bit less expensive than Glasurit, but still good quality paint. Not sure how price compares with PPG's deltron line, but they should be similar in quality as far as gloss hold out and such.

I've sprayed both of those systems and can vouch for quality for either. My fav has been PPG's waterborne so far tho, I'm not sure I'd recommend that for a garage job.

I use mostly Iwata's LPH400 orange cap with a 1.3 tip for base, and an older model LPH400 with a 1.4 for clear.

If using Diamont their 5335 clear is a nice choice.
 
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