Alright, something I am glad to hear. Just research as right now, still have to sell my 174 to pay for the nitrous. Alright, I figured since I'd have the funds for it I should get it. It can't hurt anything to use, it would allow me to learn to use it with a smaller shot, & I can always use it if/when I upgrade later on down the road. 63/71 n2o/fuel max and 275/45/17 Nitto NT555.
Help With Motor Buying.
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I'm not so sure i'd build an engine for $4400 with a stock block and add nitrous to it. A well built 347 can easily exceed 400rwhp (i see that number as conservative, most that i see are 425rwhp+). That doesn't leave a whole lot of room for a nitrous, a 75 shot at that point would not be worth the money. I also agree with 5liter, nitrous on the street has little use, i know i briefly used it.
Also consider this, nitrous itself is not cheap, then you have the kit, purge, window switch, heater or remote opener (choose whatever you like they are all fairly expensive). It adds up quick. Spend that nitrous money on the best 347 top end parts you can buy.
IMO, you choose either NA 347 or aspirated 302 when a build uses a stock block.
If you go the 347 route go all out on the engine parts instead of investing in nitrous, done right you won't notice it missing.
I also saw a few pages back you say you wanted to reuse things like the water pump, throw that plan out the window, you will be lucky to get the old one off without breaking all the bolts (which too are expensive).
Also consider this, nitrous itself is not cheap, then you have the kit, purge, window switch, heater or remote opener (choose whatever you like they are all fairly expensive). It adds up quick. Spend that nitrous money on the best 347 top end parts you can buy.
IMO, you choose either NA 347 or aspirated 302 when a build uses a stock block.
If you go the 347 route go all out on the engine parts instead of investing in nitrous, done right you won't notice it missing.
I also saw a few pages back you say you wanted to reuse things like the water pump, throw that plan out the window, you will be lucky to get the old one off without breaking all the bolts (which too are expensive).
I agree with 2000xp8 on the 347. Built properly with the right topend parts can easily get into the 400+rwhp range. If going that route nitrous is kind of redundant. But if you are going to go 302/306 I would use the bottle as a supplement for the track. OP nitrous really doesn't work very well on the street. Even with Nitto's(which is exactly what I run). They are moderately ok at the track but hitting the juice on the street is worthless. They will just spin. I don't have a progressive system on mine. It just activates at wot. Hits like a ton. My system is just the basic kit pilled for 150hp. I actually can't really hit the juice from the launch with those tires(even at the track). It will blow the tires off. I have done so with some bias ply M&H tires and ran my best times. With the nittos the best I've done is 13.80's N/A and high 12's with nitrous. (13.56-12.34 w/M&H's) that was with a lowered "stock" street suspension. With a drag suspension it would be better
I personally wouldn't build a stock block engine. That's why I have run this basic setup for a few years now. A Dart block build gets into the 10k range quick. Plus you have to add in the trans,fuel system,etc. Still saving for all this and adding little things to my car as I go. Maybe that's tmi. Sorry if so.
You seem to be on somewhat of a budget(like most). If you can only afford somewhere in the 5-6k range for your build I recommend the 306 with a good head,cam,and a small cheap nitrous kit(nos,nitrous works,zex). If you can swing more $$ give Woody a call at Ford Strokers.com. He could build you a very stout engine for under 8k(easily capable of 11 sec et n/a) and the power is always there.
I personally wouldn't build a stock block engine. That's why I have run this basic setup for a few years now. A Dart block build gets into the 10k range quick. Plus you have to add in the trans,fuel system,etc. Still saving for all this and adding little things to my car as I go. Maybe that's tmi. Sorry if so.
You seem to be on somewhat of a budget(like most). If you can only afford somewhere in the 5-6k range for your build I recommend the 306 with a good head,cam,and a small cheap nitrous kit(nos,nitrous works,zex). If you can swing more $$ give Woody a call at Ford Strokers.com. He could build you a very stout engine for under 8k(easily capable of 11 sec et n/a) and the power is always there.
I agree if I was going 347, nitrous would not be relevant. It's not a 347 its a 302/306. I'd be looking at 5k easy for the stroker, short block. My budget has been moved upto $4500, for the long block. The initial cost of setting up the nitrous is not included in the budget, I have that covered. @2000xp8 I'm not sure I follow, why wouldn't you use nitrous on a $4400 stock block 302? Maybe you meant using nitrous on top of the 347, which isn't the case. Most of my accessories have already been taken off the car for new gaskets. I'm pretty sure they'll come off 
. Thanks for the warning though.
@A5literMan What's a "stock" street suspension? I do have aftermarket LCA's & some other stuff on the way (ie. Panhard Bar, Torque Arm setup). I think that the progressive system would play a large factor on traction issues as well? I don't have DR's, but I do have a set of cobra's in storage that could wear some
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Never too much info bud, I soaks it up! I plan on a DART build as well, one day. Then this motor crapped out on me, so.... here I am. I'd love a 363 with a procharger/TT. As for FordStroker.com I contacted them last week but they said lead times are at least 6 months ha-ha. I respect what they build and how well they do it, I just can't wait 6 months for my car to be back on the road. God I would love to hit 11's na.
Keep it coming guys
. Thanks for the warning though.@A5literMan What's a "stock" street suspension? I do have aftermarket LCA's & some other stuff on the way (ie. Panhard Bar, Torque Arm setup). I think that the progressive system would play a large factor on traction issues as well? I don't have DR's, but I do have a set of cobra's in storage that could wear some
.Never too much info bud, I soaks it up! I plan on a DART build as well, one day. Then this motor crapped out on me, so.... here I am. I'd love a 363 with a procharger/TT. As for FordStroker.com I contacted them last week but they said lead times are at least 6 months ha-ha. I respect what they build and how well they do it, I just can't wait 6 months for my car to be back on the road. God I would love to hit 11's na.
Keep it coming guys
I think you will be fine with the 306 engine. You can get over 400rwhp with a streetable 347, but I wouldn't say it's typical. It requires very large expensive heads and a cam that makes it not so worthwhile on the street. I would guess that my new stroker engine is in the ballpark of 400rwhp. Probably not even that high. You'll find with the nitrous that you just don't use it that often, so it really isn't that expensive. On motor your car will probably be right at the edge of what street tires can handle. It's really just for friday night fun. A 150 shot on your 306 will be fine with a stock block. 150 is the recommended limit on pump gas. You will probably be shifting right around 6000rpms. The stock block has cracking problems in the main webbing. It's a fatigue issue that comes about with too much rpm amplified by too much bearing load from too much torque. Most of the people trashing their blocks on nitrous are putting a bottle through them a day and shifting way too high. There is no fixed hp figure that determines when a block will crack. It has more to do with abuse than actual performance.
Kurt
Kurt
I can't do it commander.
@revhead347 Thanks for clearing that up. As I haven't seen any daily 331/347 with 400hp at the wheels. So 150 shot, shift around 6k rpm. Pull around 1-2* per 50 shot being run. So if I run a 100-150 shot and pull 4-6* of timing. Will this be something that I have to adjust everytime I want to use it or just leave the timing retarded for n/a? Also, are you saying that as long as I stay within breaking limits of the block, I can run that amount of nitrous? Say if I'm 200hp/tq I can run a 200 shot, because I'm around if not less than 400hp/tq. I know I'm not factoring wheel spin or variables that come with a 200 shot, just the numbers.
I agree if I was going 347, nitrous would not be relevant. It's not a 347 its a 302/306. I'd be looking at 5k easy for the stroker, short block. My budget has been moved upto $4500, for the long block. The initial cost of setting up the nitrous is not included in the budget, I have that covered. @2000xp8 I'm not sure I follow, why wouldn't you use nitrous on a $4400 stock block 302? Maybe you meant using nitrous on top of the 347, which isn't the case. Most of my accessories have already been taken off the car for new gaskets. I'm pretty sure they'll come off
@A5literMan What's a "stock" street suspension? I do have aftermarket LCA's & some other stuff on the way (ie. Panhard Bar, Torque Arm setup). I think that the progressive system would play a large factor on traction issues as well? I don't have DR's, but I do have a set of cobra's in storage that could wear some
Never too much info bud, I soaks it up! I plan on a DART build as well, one day. Then this motor crapped out on me, so.... here I am. I'd love a 363 with a procharger/TT. As for FordStroker.com I contacted them last week but they said lead times are at least 6 months ha-ha. I respect what they build and how well they do it, I just can't wait 6 months for my car to be back on the road. God I would love to hit 11's na.
Keep it coming guys
Not sure if i read or assumed you where considering a 347 when you were in contact with fordstrokers.
Here's the way i see a 302. I don't think they are worth re building as a 302 or 306. They are rarely ever the same as they were from the factory and you are going to spend quite a bit and get no more for your money than than someone with an old original engine.
I'd save a boat load of money, find a good explorer engine for $500 (some as low as $250), sell the heads and intake off turning it into like a $250 engine (if you bought it for $500), then slap some tw's or afr 165's on it with an rpmII intake and a custom cam.
I just wouldn't pay someone to build me something that could be bought for almost nothing.
I'd then use the money you saved from not building an engine and buy a vortech.
I used a 100 shot. Not only was it expensive, but it was also boring and useless on a street car.
Something i would NOT do again.
One last thing, you could start the explorer engine on a friday and drive it on sunday, not weeks or months later.
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@2000xp8 Awesome explanation! I see what you're saying. My only fear is if I buy a used motor, it's still a used motor. If the rings are bad, I'm stuck in the same boat I'm in now. I love your idea because a Vortech, would def be worth the money and time spent. Only problem is then I need a blow-through carb, which csu has some but I think they start at a $1000.
I don't follow how your 100 shot was useless. I assume you mean you couldn't keep traction?
I have a free 97 Explorer motor at my mother-in laws, just have to grab it before they junk it. Only problem is it needs a rebuild.
I don't follow how your 100 shot was useless. I assume you mean you couldn't keep traction?
I have a free 97 Explorer motor at my mother-in laws, just have to grab it before they junk it. Only problem is it needs a rebuild.
Most nitrous abusers get an automated ignition box to adjust the timing when the nitrous comes on.
Kurt
Kurt
Most explorer engines weren't beat to death, they ran at low rpms, had an auto trans and adult driven. That and they had hypereutectic pistons which last quite a long time and burn little oil.
People will argue to go forged like 92 and older mustang 5.0's (pretty sure 93 went to hypers) but the block only puts up with 450-500rwhp, so i'm not sure it really matters.
Of course junkyard engines are a crapshoot, but you should be able to test compression before using one.
As for the nitrous, could it be good in a stop light race? Ya, if you have a remote opener and bottle was right temperature, but other than that, it provides little to no actual fun. Not like you are going to be using it just for kicks at $50 a refill.
Also consider that since you don't drive around using it all the time, you have to waste it to get a feel for how the car will react. After a few weeks, you forget, then you race with it, put your foot to the floor, tires spin and you now have done worse not better.
I'd assume it's better at the track with unlimited traction.
For competitive racing, i get it, but for the average guy just looking to have some fun on the street i see no value in it.
I don't know much about carbs and blowers, but if you have a supercharger already that goes on a carb setup, i'd run it. A supercharger can enjoyed all the time, not just when you need it.
It's a Roots Blower not a centri S/C. They can overheat IAT's, normally when revved up pretty good. I have to worry about hood clearance again. I'd have to buy another boost ref. carb or build one. I'd have to add a return line to help cool fuel. Etc, Etc... Not too many power adders can be had for $1500...
@revhead347 How much traction issues do you have with your nitrous setup? I'm sure our cars a miles apart from each other, but if you can give me a little more insight on the nitrous game that'd be great, thanks. P.S. Traction issues with all the elctronics hooked up prog. controller, timing retard, window switch, wot switch, etc.
So I should I save the money and run a higher compression motor, worth it? Or stay low comp., so one day I can run boost and change the cam? I know that's more of a personal preference, but I'd like your opinion on what you would do.
