jrichker

You replied to my post about swapping an a9l in for an a9p. After going to 2 auto parts place and the local for dealer I got the same story from all. There are 2 ecu's for that year one is #F32F-ga and the other is F92F-ba. One is $127 the other is $185 at NAPA. Any ideas? Was there a mid year software change? Is one for California? Wonder why the big difference in price? I don't care about the $ I just want to get the right one. I figured I'd ask directly instead of clogging up 5.0 tech. Any info would be great. Thanks. E-mail at [email protected]

forgot to say,
Thanks,

Andrew

hey, i read your write up on the head swap. I just finished mine and now my car is smoking white smoke. I have not done the

Change the oil once you get everything back together. Once the engine is up & running, run it for 1-2 hours and change the oil

i did change the oil when everything was back together, so there is probably some coolant left in there. Should i go ahead and change my oil, or run it for a while then change it? it doesn't look good with the little bit of white smoke coming out from where the headers go to the heads though...

Thanks for the prompt response to my query regarding the computer swap for my '92 GT. I'll probably use the unit from the '89 GT if I can get a decent price. Otherwise, I'll get one from Ford or one of the aftermarket guys. I have to take into account that the '89 unit is already 20 years old.

Al Lee
Greenville, AL
70ivygreen

Found your thread on fuel system diagnostics. My 93 2.3L n/a starts sometimes and can be a royal pain others. I noticed the dark green/yellow wire from my computer was tapped by somebody before. The wire that is tapped in runs from the computer across the fire wall to the driver side, through the fire wall to the steering collum and is spliced into a black/green wire(I am guessing the ignition switch. What is the black/green wire, and why would they split off of the inertia switch to the ignition switch. Thanks for your help and insight neighbor.

Trey
Brandon, FL

hi there my names michael... i was reading ur helpful post about the fuel pump not working and have traced my problem to the solid red wire at inertia switch does not have 12 v.... i juumped acc to the red and black wire, the fuel pump energizes, primes and the car starts up, obviously the solid red is the problem but am confused how and were to backtrack ...any suggestions would be great thxs

Hey, quick question for ya about that 3g alternator ya told me about... that part confuses me..i see the differnt amp alternators..60,100,180 ect... but whats the difference between a 2G and a 3G. Basically i dont understand the G's lol amps i can understand, but why not jsut go with like a 2G 100 amp?

Long tube headers typically place the O2 sensor farther away from the exhaust valves. This means the exhaust gases are cooler and the O2 sensors may not work as good as they should.

Just be sure that the orange O2 sensor ground has a good clean ground. There is no need move it anyplace else. I grounded mine to the engine since there wasn't a easier place to do it.

See the "Surging Idle Checklist for help with all your idle/stall problems. The first two posts contain all the updates to the fixes. At last count there were 24 possible causes and fixes] for surging idle/stall problems. I continue to update it as more people post fixes or ask questions.

hey quick question. my little brother has a 91 gt and ive been having some trouble with dtc 41 and 91. the car has long tubes, catted x pipe, flows, pulleys, 3g alt, intake and it was chipped but i took that out so its running on a stock map again, i dont know what is on the chip we bought the car this way.

fuel filter is good. o2s seem to be replaced by previous owner. spark plugs, cap, rotor and wires look good. no vacuum leaks that ive found and the fuel pressure was about 38psi if i remember correctly. i did see a good improvement when i replaced the thermostat. i used a 180. i guess the other one was stuck partially open because the car would run cold. it got better but still hesitates/misfires at low rpms around 1-2k at cruising speeds. sometimes has a hard time starting. has a hard time idling sometimes. and when you go wot you can smell the unburned gases. any suggestions? do you think a fpr would help any? i was looking a lot through previous threads relating to this issue and i saw how you recommend people ground the orange ground wire to the intake manifold. by that do you mean cut the orange wire from the chasis harness and then use a connector to ground out to the body?