MIKEPAST
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MIKEPAST

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MIKEPAST was last seen:
Jun 20, 2010
    1. MIKEPAST
      MIKEPAST
      Hi, great job on your car build,I like the independent rearend, your car must handel great.
      This the direction I would like to take my car.
      Did you install caster camber plates or were you good to go?
      I checked in the Mathis ,mustang bible 83-87 k members are the same.

      Did you install the bigger brake booster too.
      I wanted to build a factory five car but priced out, building these cars is the best way to go!
      My 85 lx has 93 5.0 efi ford motorsport engine with b303 cam,x303 valve train kit and harness, with 86 mustang fuel lines plus its gas tank.
      Im still using the 85 aod trans but with b&m cooler and baumann shift kit.
      I would like to get it built to get od delete switch- lentech valve body kit.
      My rearend is a ford motorsport 8.8 with 373 gears,Irs was too pricey at the time ,but now looks good.
      What involved to install the IRS how much work?
      What I was asking on rub was, did you have any outer front fender rub when hard cornering?
      I did a search on the net Hotrod magazine, did a build on 84 mustang gt racer,they used the sne a-arms, spindel,rack,inner and outter tie rod,you should check it out.
      Maximum motorsports supplied most of the suspension parts.

      mike
    2. seijirou
      seijirou
      Actually my choice on the 96 spindles was purely for the track width. I'm in to road racing, and wider is better.

      I actually did not know that the 85 K member was an inch narrower. My car has an 86 K member in it with the 86 A arms. I don't know if there's a difference between the 85 and the 86 or not.
      The reason I have an 86 K member, is because my previous Capri was an 86. I hit several deer with it, and destroyed the body. I bought this 85 as a rolling shell. The easy way for me to swap in my engine, transmission, and front suspension, was to drop the front K member with all the suspension and engine/trans still bolted to it. I did the same for the rear, and simply lifted the body up off the drivetrain. I then lowered my 85 body down and bolted it up.

      I still have a stock 86 rack and tie rods. You have to turn out the tie rods a lot to meet the spindles, but it works just fine. And there's still plenty of out rod attached to the inner so it's safe.

      I've never had any bumpsteering problems with 6+ years driving on this setup, nor any rubbing problems. My tierods are connected directly to the spindles without any bumpsteer kit. But, I have not directly tested for bumpsteer so I don't mean to say that there isn't any. I honestly don't know. I just know that I've never experienced it personally. I do however want to do a bumpsteer kit in the future just because I like to get things perfect when I can.

      Something I want to look in to is some 99+ cobra front A arms. They are longer than ours and provide better geometry. It may be overkill in combination with the 96 spindles though. If your 85 K member is narrower than mine though, that might be the ticket. It's much better to have a narrow K member and longer A arms.

      When I still had a solid axle rear, I had 94+ GT rear disc brakes. I used 1999 GT 17x8 wheels. 255/45 in the front, 265/40 in the rear. You really can't stuff more than a 265 in the back on 94+ axles without a special offset wheel. Also, while my fronts didn't rub with a 255/45 front, a lot of other people have had rubbing issues with narrower 245/45 tires. I don't know why mine was different, it may be due to the 96 spindles. A 265 was too wide for the front, as it would put the edge of the tire in to the fenders. You could fit a 265, possibly a 275 in the front, but again you would need special offset wheels.

      Now I have the IRS out of an 03 cobra, so it comes with cobra brakes. I have 93 cobra R wheels (same as 94 GT Tri-bars) that are also 17x8. They clear the brakes just fine.

      Because of the extra width of the 99+ cars, my 03 IRS is putting my rear tires in to the quarter panels. I went down to a 245/45 rear tire but it's still hitting. I'm going to do some changes in the back though, possibly some mini-tubbing as well as widening the body in the rear. I'd like to get a 16x12 wheel in the back, but I'll have to see what I can do, and then figure out what kind of room I've made.
    3. MIKEPAST
      MIKEPAST
      Hi, thanks ,I was wanting to know if your choice for using the 96 spindels vs the 95 spindels was to help the camber, because of the spindel in .5 on each side of 85 k member front track making it 1" narrower.
      The other reason was to get rid of the bumpsteering problem, plus to avoid a-arm rub on the inside fender wheel, and not have to use rack limiters, limiting turning radius.
      Are you still using the 85 stock front a-arm?
      I have all the small fittings.
      .
      Did you keep your stock tierods were they ok on lenght, I have the washer spacers for the balljoints.

      I already have the 91 mustang front struts tokico illuminas , 98 cobra r 17 by 8 rims with 5,72 bs.tire size still need to figure out what works.
      The rear set up would be for five lug cobra, did you do rear discs and what ,tire size with 17 by 8 rim s.
      Im tring to make sure I have the best options .
      thanks, mike
    4. seijirou
      seijirou
      Not sure what you're getting at with the m2300k and the mounting holes on the K member, but.

      I used 1996 spindles with 1999 GT rotors, calipers, and brake pads.

      You can chose between 1994 and 1995 spindes, or 1996 and up spindles.

      The 1996 will push out your front wheels wider some.

      Also remember using an SN95 spindle means you're going 5 lug. I don't believe there is a 4 lug hub that will fit the spindles.

      With either spindle, they fit but there are 2 things that need to be addressed.

      First, the foxbody balljoint is too tall for an SN95 spindle. This means the crown nut on the ball joint will go so far down, that the cotter pin hole is above the crown nut, and you can't lock it in place. You can either use washers under the crown nut, or you can replace your balljoints with SN95 balljoints that are shorter.

      Second, the section on your shocks that bolt to the spindles, is too wide for SN95 spindles. This means the shock can slide forwards and backwards on the 2 bolts connecting it to the spindle. What I did, was push the spindle all the way forward (to give better caster), and then put in washers behind it to make up the distance. This is tricky because you'll need more than 1 washer, so you'll need to put the bolt through the first top shock hole, through 2 or more washers, through the spindle, and through the 2nd top shock hole, and repeat for the bottom.
      You can try to use SN95 shocks in the front which will bolt right up, however when I tried they blew out on me. I think they might be longer, but it's possible I got some faulty shocks. Maybe you can get a parts store to pull both down for you, and you can compare compressed and uncompressed lengths.

      The front driver's side brake line for the new caliper will bolt up, but you can't use the factory bracket. You can make up your own bracket, or use some zip ties.

      Your passenger side brake line will not bolt up. The fittings on the hose and the hard line are different sizes. You can get a brass fitting adapter that will make up the difference. I'm sorry but I don't know what size adapter you need. What I did, is went to a parts store, and had them pull a 1999 front passenger brake hose, and a 1985 front passenger brake hose. With those 2 hoses, you can determine what sizes they are. You then need a female to male adapter, that will fit the 1985 hard line, and screw in to the 1999 hose. Again, you can't use the stock bracket to secure the hose, so you'll need to make your own or use some zip ties.

      You already have disc brakes in the rear so I'll skip all that.

      If you have not done so already, you need to get rid of your current proportioning valve. The stock proportioning valve does not give enough rear brake pressure, so you're going to make the front do all the work, reducing your stopping power and eating up your front brake pads.

      With your B cam and vacuum problems, there's a couple of things you can try.

      A larger brake booster would help, and you have that 93 cobra unit. Like you discovered, it's a pain to install.

      You can use a vacuum pump, but they do tend to buzz. You may be able to find a way to mount it with somesort of rubber mount that may help with the vibration.

      You can try to make a large vacuum reservoir with a check valve. This would store and hold vacuum whenever you have some, and supply it to the brake booster even when your engine isn't making vacuum. The problem with a reservoir is that once it runs out, you're back to no power brakes.

      The most complicated but most useful option would be to use hydroboost brakes. I know you can get hydroboost brake boosters from 1999 v6 mustangs. Not all, but some came with them. Hydroboost works off of your power steering pump. The same pressure used for power steering can be used for power brakes. You run your pressure hose from your pump to your brake booster, then there is a high pressure output from your brake booster that goes to your power steering rack. The return lines for both the brake booster and power steering rack T together back to the pump, or through a cooler and then the pump. This may actually be easier than a bigger vacuum booster, but it may be more expensive.

      Let me know if you have any other questions :nice:
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