help installing shorty headers: should I drop the k member?

194kw

New Member
Nov 7, 2003
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Burbank, CA
Hello

I stumbled onto a few threads in which people mentioned dropping the k member for the install. What i'd like to know is would that be an easier route to getting the shorties put on rather than deal with the limited space? I also want to put on the stage 8 locking bolts, would that necessitate dropping the k?

Thanks for your help.
 
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anyone who drops the k member to put headers on is out of their mind! It can be done without dropping the K member. A friend of mine installed long tube headers without dropping the k member. Do you want to have to go for a wheel alignment, do you want to go through plum bobing the k member to get the suspension points lined up front to back so the car doesn't go sideways down the road. Ill tell you i don't want to do that. :shrug: :rolleyes:
 
how about access to the bolts? its one thing to get a socket on but do you think i'd still be able to get the e-clips onto the stage 8 bolts?

i was expecting to do an alignment if i went the k member route, could you elaborate a bit more on the other issue you brought up?

thanks.
 
inertia said:
you DON'T have to drop the K member for this install, I dropped the K when I installed my Longtubes but then again that was a bigger PITA to install than shorties.

What he said! ^^^

We were going for an LT install while leaving in the K member and it is just impossible to do. For me anyway... We marked the K member in its current location, pulled it, installed the headers in nothing flat, then put it all back together again. It drove straight after that but still headed to the shop for an alignment just in case!

For shorties, I can't imagine it being too rough. He hard bolts to get to should still be accessable. I guess it is just up to you how much you can tolerate. Start it out without pulling it, then go from there...

Bo
 
194kw said:
Hello

I stumbled onto a few threads in which people mentioned dropping the k member for the install. What i'd like to know is would that be an easier route to getting the shorties put on rather than deal with the limited space? I also want to put on the stage 8 locking bolts, would that necessitate dropping the k?

Thanks for your help.

I've had my jba's on and off three times without dropping the k. I thought about those stage 8 deals but there is no way your going to get all the clips on, there is just not enough space to get pliers in there. I would choose not installing the stage 8's over dropping the k. If you ever need to get them off, because of header cracks (like me) you created a MAJOR pain in the A$$ for yourself.
 
I installed JBA headers last month - no need to drop the K-member for shorties. I would recommend a ratchet wrench for some of the bolts though - its much easier to get the ratchet wrench on those nuts than trying to get a socket wrench in there. If you don't have them go to Sears and buy a set or just the one you need for the header nuts.

Good luck!
 
jeff1414 said:
hey nasa gt where did you get your headers?

I got them at performancecenter.com They had a sale and I picked up the chrome ones for $379.I think they regularly sell for like $459 on that site. The best prices I saw other than that were at Brother's Performance and www.bieberfever.com for around $440. Partshopper also has them at $470 or so. I was going to buy from partshopper (to support this web site), but then I found the crazy sale and couldn't pass that up.

John_324 - I think they are fixed but only produce 3-5 rwhp. Its alot of effort for just a little gain. The JBAs are suppossed to be worth 9 rwhp (I've seen a couple dynos to back that up).

There are also some BBK equal length shorties that cost somewhere between the FRPPs and the JBAs, but they won't be available till' January sometime.