Overheating...
- Thread starter SpankyStang
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Thanks, I got a shop ordering one for me. But im gonna go with the 195. I dont think a 180 is necessary for me, especially being in December.
Have any of you guys had problems with the computer trying to make adjustments to compensate after installing the 180?
Have any of you guys had problems with the computer trying to make adjustments to compensate after installing the 180?
its a personal thing, as there are many threads with mini wars about what is best.SpankyStang said:
it is very safe to run a 180. the computer will make it into closed loop, no probs. some even run a 160 (jerry beach is one i can think of) and he has no probs and must do ok, as he gets around 20+mpg (must be in closed loop). most say the 160 is too cold, but i tend to trust those whom have actually tried it or have personal knowledge rather than just reading that it wont work. i trust jerry. i personally run a 180 (speed shop only offered 180 and 160. i would not run a 195, as that is for emissions and may be fine on a new block, but i like to let my tired old horsey relax a little. just me). plus being in tucson makes a difference. i dont know if it is warm where you are in cali, but that may factor into it. even the 195 will be better, as it will be fully open sooner than a stocker (im guessing).
the consensus seems to be that generally 160 is too cold, but 170 works (michael Yount posted that a 170 stat from an infiniti works well. if interested, shoot him a pm). i bet the 180 is great for most, and even the 195 will hopefully be ok for you (hate to say it, but given how you are running, i might have gone with the 180 for now.).
Rick, i have a story about puttin a control arm in upside down once (similar situation as yours- late and too tired). couldnt figure out the wicked positive camber i had only on one side). that was another car when i was young. live and learn, right?
Yeah no more late night thrashes and beer for me...lol
The computer acutally will run best around 190 degrees, per all of Ford literatures and engine books I have seen, that is why it comes with a 195.
The 180 will work just fine and the high flow has bleeds that constantly let trapped bubbles and fluid through and this helps a lot on hot summer days. Only issue with the 160 on a radical street car is the water does not have enough time in the radiator for it to cool it efficently since fluid is running constant.
I know coming down the highway I would actyually turn my fan on to warm my car up, the air was goig through my Ron Davis Racing rad and was keeping it way cold, it dropped to 150 degrees while I was cruising at 70mph, popped the fan on and it warmed up just about 25 degrees.
What you have for a cooling system, condition of the components has a lot to do with how things run.
The computer acutally will run best around 190 degrees, per all of Ford literatures and engine books I have seen, that is why it comes with a 195.
The 180 will work just fine and the high flow has bleeds that constantly let trapped bubbles and fluid through and this helps a lot on hot summer days. Only issue with the 160 on a radical street car is the water does not have enough time in the radiator for it to cool it efficently since fluid is running constant.
I know coming down the highway I would actyually turn my fan on to warm my car up, the air was goig through my Ron Davis Racing rad and was keeping it way cold, it dropped to 150 degrees while I was cruising at 70mph, popped the fan on and it warmed up just about 25 degrees.
What you have for a cooling system, condition of the components has a lot to do with how things run.
Thanks for the info...
For now I think Ill be fine with the 195 because its pretty cold here and by this spring I hope to have a DSS 306. Besides, I just wanna get a new t.stat in so I know if thats the problem or not.
For now I think Ill be fine with the 195 because its pretty cold here and by this spring I hope to have a DSS 306. Besides, I just wanna get a new t.stat in so I know if thats the problem or not.
Update
New thermostats in, new radiator cap, all new hoses and clamps, all new coolant. Same problem. When the car starts warming up, the temp. gauge rises as usual, but doesnt stop. This last time I did notice that when I give it some gas it seemed to rise faster. Sounds like a go ahead and put some new head gaskets on. Any other ideas would be great. Thanks.
New thermostats in, new radiator cap, all new hoses and clamps, all new coolant. Same problem. When the car starts warming up, the temp. gauge rises as usual, but doesnt stop. This last time I did notice that when I give it some gas it seemed to rise faster. Sounds like a go ahead and put some new head gaskets on. Any other ideas would be great. Thanks.
im not great with this stuff, but i would pull plugs. if you are burning coolant, the plugs should have a rust color on them, no? other than that and doing a pressure hold test on the cooling system, i dont know. good luck. sorry the stat didnt do it.SpankyStang said:
SpankyStang,
Might be a good idea to first check the accuracy of the temperature gauge. I used a resistor substitution box and my meter reads perfectly. My Haynes manual had the test procedure:
Connect a resistor in place of the sending unit between ground and sensor connector with sending unit disconnected. Key must be on, but engine can be off.
74 Ohms = cold mark, I used 75 Ohms
9.7 Ohms = hot mark, I used 10 Ohms
My sensor was messed up, only replace with one from Ford as they are specially selected to work right with the stock gauge.
Also a good idea to check with an accurate thermometer, I slide the probe end into the protect sleeve for protection from rubbing on the alternator.
Good Luck, Don
Might be a good idea to first check the accuracy of the temperature gauge. I used a resistor substitution box and my meter reads perfectly. My Haynes manual had the test procedure:
Connect a resistor in place of the sending unit between ground and sensor connector with sending unit disconnected. Key must be on, but engine can be off.
74 Ohms = cold mark, I used 75 Ohms
9.7 Ohms = hot mark, I used 10 Ohms
My sensor was messed up, only replace with one from Ford as they are specially selected to work right with the stock gauge.
Also a good idea to check with an accurate thermometer, I slide the probe end into the protect sleeve for protection from rubbing on the alternator.
Good Luck, Don
I do plan on changing the temp. sending unit and coolant temp. sensor. I bought a Motorcraft sending unit part# SW925 and a E-Tron component sensor part#LRS-12648A.
Will the sending unit work with an aftermarket temp gauge? Or do you get a new sensor when you purchase the gauge?
Will the sending unit work with an aftermarket temp gauge? Or do you get a new sensor when you purchase the gauge?
makarov
New Member
If you have a sensitive nose like ashford, this may work, but the most accurate way of testing for a blown head gasket is to take it to a shop. They put a cap on the radiator attached to a machine that measures "combustion products" in the coolant. A way of measuring the amount of oil, gas and exhaust products that are leaking into the coolant.
I cant drive it anywhere beacuse it doesnt cool at all. And I dont feel like having it towed there and back.
IndyBlk5.0
New Member
not necessarly hissin, i had a bad head gasket leak and didnt notice a difference in any of my plugs.HISSIN50 said:
IndyBlk5.0
New Member
you have the exact same problem that i had.... It is a head gasket no doubt in my mind. I wanted to deny the fact that it was for awhile becuause i didnt want to go through the trouble. Also, take your lower intake in to the shop just to have them check it out. I had a total of 2 head gasket leaks and possibly a coolant leak in the lower intake due to excessive wear on my water ports. I have either a gt-40 or cobra aluminum intake. They will be eaten out. I had to have my machine shop do a lot of welding on mine so that when i put it back on, it would seal. If i wouldnt have gotten it welded, i would of been dumping coolant straight into my pan. You can chew a crank in half in no time with coolant in the system, it is worth checking it out. As far as cleaning surfaces.... us a razor, then after your done get 1500-2000 grit sand paper and wet sand it using wd-40. Clean up EVERYTHING while your at it... Make sure you get heads a cleanup cut too, make sure they are not warped... Much more tips if you want, just ask...
-Jason
-Jason
Before you go ripping the motor apart...
First with the rad cap off and the car running do you see bubbles in the rad, is there any oil present in the rad, pull the dipstick and check the oil is it milky? 98% of the time when a head gasket goes you will see one of the above. A leakdown and compression test will also help a lot.
Maybe you have air in the system fords are famous for this and it is very easy to happen when you swap anything on the cooling system. Jack the front end up start the car with the rad cap off and see if you get a good burst of air from the system, when it is running, don't let it overheat.
I'd also suggest checking the gauge out....
First with the rad cap off and the car running do you see bubbles in the rad, is there any oil present in the rad, pull the dipstick and check the oil is it milky? 98% of the time when a head gasket goes you will see one of the above. A leakdown and compression test will also help a lot.
Maybe you have air in the system fords are famous for this and it is very easy to happen when you swap anything on the cooling system. Jack the front end up start the car with the rad cap off and see if you get a good burst of air from the system, when it is running, don't let it overheat.
I'd also suggest checking the gauge out....
I dont think I noticed any bubbles in the rad. but the coolant does smell like rich exhaust. Theres no oil in the radiator...and im gonna go check my oil right now.
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