Differences between subframe connectors

I apoligize in advanced in case this has already been discussed a billion times.

I have a 03 GT Vert and I would like to stiffen up the chassis a bit. I noticed that I have bolt-on connectors already. Browsing CR Motorsports' website I noticed basically two types of subframe connectors that I can purchase. Well 3 but I want the Alloy, not the mild steel (unless there isn't a justification in spending more money for alloy).

1. Steeda Subframe Connectors 94-03, except 96-98 Cobra, 4130 Alloy, Weld In
Code: 555-5320
Price: $102.99


2. Steeda Full Length Sub Frame Connectors
Code: 555-5245
Price: $117.99

Can somebody enlighten me as to which ones I should purchse? I want to make the right desicion the first time around because of them being welded in.

Thank you.
 
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Weld-ins for sure. I selected Griggs. They did some testing on the length of the SFC's and determined at what point extending them any further would be of no more help. Then they decided to make that size only. Good luck, SFC's are a very effective and reasonabily priced mod.
 
SFC's are definately a good mod. Metcos are highly recomended where I am but you will pay more for them. The Steeda SFCs have additional torque box support. To me that is a very good thing if you plan on launching hard... When I finish my engine mods I will be looking at one of these two...

Bo
 
Red00vert said:
Don't change them...just get new lowering springs. Or bigger wheel/lower profile tires. That should help alot.


please dont give out bad advice. Subframe connectors are a VERY VERY good mod for any car. It helps with more things than just handling.
 
Right, I know that they are a good mod. I guess I need to now ask what the difference is between the regular and full length. another words, is it worth doing the full length and will I be shorting myself any with the regular ones....know what I mean Vern...
 
Gatorman1369 said:
I apoligize in advanced in case this has already been discussed a billion times.

I have a 03 GT Vert and I would like to stiffen up the chassis a bit. I noticed that I have bolt-on connectors already. Browsing CR Motorsports' website I noticed basically two types of subframe connectors that I can purchase. Well 3 but I want the Alloy, not the mild steel (unless there isn't a justification in spending more money for alloy).

1. Steeda Subframe Connectors 94-03, except 96-98 Cobra, 4130 Alloy, Weld In
Code: 555-5320
Price: $102.99


2. Steeda Full Length Sub Frame Connectors
Code: 555-5245
Price: $117.99

Can somebody enlighten me as to which ones I should purchse? I want to make the right desicion the first time around because of them being welded in.

Thank you.

IMO, Griggs subframe connectors----> $89.95 Save your money.

:flag:
 
As you already know, by the description the second one is full length, which offers more strength. But I think a major difference between the two besides length is the weight. The 4130 Alloy is going to be quite a bit lighter than the full length ones, and you also would probably add the seat cross brace to the 4130. I believe the 4130 is going to need to be TIG welded, which might make it more difficult to find someone to install.

IMO, if it's a daily driver and sees only occasional track usage, get the griggs or Steeda 4130 molly and save the weight with the Steeda's. If you do a lot of Launches at the track then the full lenghth would be the ones to go with.
 
mogs01gt said:
please dont give out bad advice. Subframe connectors are a VERY VERY good mod for any car. It helps with more things than just handling.
My feeling exactly, maximum motor sports is another good source for sub frame connectors. I have a convertible also and I will be doing this mod sometime soon.
 
Check into the Global West subframe connectors with the rocker rail support.
I made the purchase and am 100% satisfied. I would go with the individual pieces rather than the assembled kit (for the reason of differences in the fabrication jig and your floor pan)

Go tubular, as they offer all the support of the rectangular one but offer additional torsional rigidity (what shape stock do roll bars/cages come in?).

They don't hang low on the car....the mufflers will still be the lowest thing so there won't be any clearance problems.

Global West

Hop
Check the signature for links to my pics and you can see them installed
 
As Hoppy described, the tubular gives you better torsional strength. But some tubular subframes are not jackable. That was what swayed me to the rectangular MMs. Space is tight under there, I wanted to be able to use them as jack locations.

Good luck!