Pick an amp, any amp...

h0oligan

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Jan 18, 2003
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I'm kind of a newbie when it comes to sound system stuff, but i want to run two 4 ohm 12" Alpine type Rs. Now, I'm looking for an amp that can power these, but still be affordable. A guy I know at a local sound shop suggested a Audiobahn 12001DT. What do you suggest i go with? The Type R's have a RMS of 300 watts, peak 1000.
 
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h0oligan said:
I'm kind of a newbie when it comes to sound system stuff, but i want to run two 4 ohm 12" Alpine type Rs. Now, I'm looking for an amp that can power these, but still be affordable. A guy I know at a local sound shop suggested a Audiobahn 12001DT. What do you suggest i go with? The Type R's have a RMS of 300 watts, peak 1000.

Profile Clarius 640 is what I just installed and it is pretty good. It is 75x4 RMS @4ohm or 225x2 RMS @4ohm bridged. And it is like 150 shipped
 
If you get the Type-R's, I'd recommend giving each about 400 or more, they're pretty power hungry. That Audiobahn is a pretty expensive amp, depending on how much you want to spend. If you watch your gains, you could power both with a JBL 1200.1. ikesound.com sold them for around 200 I think, but they're not listed on their site anymore. What's your budget?

Edit: If you get the Audiobahn through ikesound, it's only 389.
 
I'd say the 1200.1 over the Audiobahn. I don't see it on ikesound's site anymore, but sounddomain.com pricematched ike's price, so ask them if they would price match what it was before. You get the factory warranty also, if you go through sounddomian.com
 
BBrinks said:
Which version of the type-R are you getting? The dual 2ohm or dual 4ohm? I'd get the dual 2's, so you can get a 2ohm final impedance: http://www.jlaudio.com/tutorials/wiring/index.html
The JL amp is 1ohm stable, but you don't get any more output running it at 1ohm than 2ohms. If you're looking at different amps, look for something that puts out about 800w+ RMS x 1 @ 2ohms.

I already have the 4ohm subs, because that's what the guy at the sound sotre suggested, but i dont really understand the concept. Can someone explain to me this ohm stuff?
 
h0oligan said:
I already have the 4ohm subs, because that's what the guy at the sound sotre suggested, but i dont really understand the concept. Can someone explain to me this ohm stuff?

This is a quicky explanation. An amplifier is nothing but a piece of electronic equipment and will be designed with certain capabilities or limits, and will work at it's optimum within those limits. One of those limits to be considered is the resistance that your speakers present to the current flow. Resistance is measured in ohms. Current is flowing through your amp's output devices to the speakers, but it MUST have some resistance or your amp would literally burn up it's output devices by trying to flow TOO much current. Zero resistance is a dead short.The current has to have something to "slow" it down. So it is critical to match the proper resistance of the speaker set-up to what the amplifier is capable of doing. Don't let it be too confusing. And don't believe for a minute that there is any magic involved, because there isn't. Only proper equipment, installed properly without cutting corners. Patience, patience, patience.
 
Well, since you got the dual 4ohm version, you'll need to get an amp that's 1ohm stable, because you'll get a final impedance of either 4ohms or 1ohm, and running the amp at 1ohm, if it's stable will give you more power than at 4.

If you want to learn the basics of car audio, I'd recommend reading through some of these articles: http://www.bcae1.com/. Should keep you busy for a while. If you have any other questions, just ask.

EDIT: Here's another for ya: http://www.caraudioforum.com/showthread.php?threadid=135835&highlight=tutorial
 
BBrinks said:
Well, since you got the dual 4ohm version, you'll need to get an amp that's 1ohm stable, because you'll get a final impedance of either 4ohms or 1ohm, and running the amp at 1ohm, if it's stable will give you more power than at 4.

I'm glad to see someone use the word "stable" in this reference. There can be considerable difference in being 1 ohm "safe" and being 1 ohm "stable". Stable is the amp's ability to remain constant or consistent over a range of use. This ability has much to do with build quality AND matching components in the amp's construction. An amp can conceivably be "safe" to use into 1 ohm and not necessarily be "stable". Stability has a price though, but in car audio you usually get what you pay for.
 
I went to another car audio place today and this guy suggested an Alpine MRV-T420 amp. It might seem a little under powered, but he showed me a type r powered with only 150 watts and it sounded awesome. Good price for only about 230, what'd you think?
 
He said affordable. Great amp, though, but I don't know if he wants to spend 400+ on an amp. Another recommendation I would make is this avionixx: http://www.avionixxusa.com/ep/axt_8002.htm
I'd say that if you heard the other guys setup and liked the way it sounded, find out if it's ported, and if so, to which frequency and run a similar setup. Ported, they don't need too much power to get loud. I can list a bunch of setups that would work, but it's all up to you and if you like the way something sounds, then go for it. It will sound different when it's on the soundboard at the shop, and when it's installed in the car, though.