Thumper headz
- Thread starter JeepinXj87
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JeepinXj87 said:
Get your track weight (you in the car) down to 3,200# and run a good cam and an Explorer or Cobra intake and make some traction mods - like GOOD control arms and slicks as a minimum.
i think just a drag suspension with slicks would do. tubular k memeber + a arms, coil overs, with good control arms like maximum motorsports. i think alot of it is driving though. jus by learning how to drive and optimizing shift points i got my car to go from a 14.1 to a 13.6
First of all, I don't see with your mods how you ran 15 flat? What was your 60ft and MPH, that can give us some clue to what happened. Either traction was really bad which is either due to the track or your suspension being wrong. You don't know how to drive (no offence, we all have to learn, or something is wrong with your engine. Whatever is wrong, needs to be fixed first.
ET's are dominated by traction, then comes driver's ablility, then power comes third. With slicks and a full drag suspension, properly working engine, and the know how to use it, you could probally touch the 12's with your current engine setup.
You could look into some GT40/Explorer heads and intake first, you could save some money but they don't flow stock what thumper's or TMOSS's flow, and unless the heads are near new, they probally need a rebuild. One reason Thumper heads are a good value is they are completly rebuilt down the the valve job, plus the porting, it's a good deal. When you do get new heads, I recomend highly double valve springs, it makes a really big difference high rpm's and/or with a biger cam. The only thing, Iron heads weight a lot more, you would save 50lbs by going with an aluminun head. Which brings me to the next point...
...Another way to get your ET's down is to reduce weight and drag. As a general rule which proves to be mostly accurate, for every 100lbs of weight reduction equals a tenth off the ET, and a few lbs here and there adds up, and thenth reductions adds up. Also weight placement, more weight to be shifted to the rear, such as the battery, the better. The A/C, Smog, and P/S add drag and weight in the worse places.
ET's are dominated by traction, then comes driver's ablility, then power comes third. With slicks and a full drag suspension, properly working engine, and the know how to use it, you could probally touch the 12's with your current engine setup.
You could look into some GT40/Explorer heads and intake first, you could save some money but they don't flow stock what thumper's or TMOSS's flow, and unless the heads are near new, they probally need a rebuild. One reason Thumper heads are a good value is they are completly rebuilt down the the valve job, plus the porting, it's a good deal. When you do get new heads, I recomend highly double valve springs, it makes a really big difference high rpm's and/or with a biger cam. The only thing, Iron heads weight a lot more, you would save 50lbs by going with an aluminun head. Which brings me to the next point...
...Another way to get your ET's down is to reduce weight and drag. As a general rule which proves to be mostly accurate, for every 100lbs of weight reduction equals a tenth off the ET, and a few lbs here and there adds up, and thenth reductions adds up. Also weight placement, more weight to be shifted to the rear, such as the battery, the better. The A/C, Smog, and P/S add drag and weight in the worse places.
PURESTREET5006
New Member
You guys did say anything about gearing..4.10 at least...And thats all i'm gonna say on this subject.
yes I did. just a little. how much are stock GTs supposed to weigh? some dude on another forum says the 99+ GTs weigh 3250. BTW, the 3150 is w/o me (3310). My friends 96 Cobra (no weight reduction) came in at 3320 w/o him. on my car I took out a/c, powersteering, sway bar, foglights/brackets, aluminum heads, fiberglass hood, alum d/s, removed dogbone. i woulda thought the car would have come in lighter.tmoss said:
the 3150 is with about 1/3 tank. only weight adding mod was subframs (16lbs).
PURESTREET5006
New Member
25thmustang
Mustang Master
I will be too, stock heads with GT-40 Valve train, stock cam, Cobra intake, the rest of the bolt ons and gears!
Its all about traction, and driving. Lots of people make great power but run sub par times.
Its all about traction, and driving. Lots of people make great power but run sub par times.
90mustangGT said:
I have been wondering this for a long time when i first ran my car i ran a 16.8 with like a 2.4 60 foot, it turned out my distributor cap was loose and just wiggling around. After fixing it down i brought it back to the track and the best i was able to pull off was a 15.0 with a .605 reaction time and a 2.0 60 foot and i finished the quarter at 92.86 mph.
i am runnning 17 inch cobras on kuhmo excsta supras and i belive my traction lockl is blown out but yes i too belive i should be runnning faster so any help would be apprieceiated
thumper460
Founding Member
60 foot!! in a drag race!! 15.0 with a 2.0 60 ft!! how about 14.5's just buy cutting a 1.80 60 ft!! or 14.3's on a 1.7 60 ft!! Now 14.3's and add the heads/ cam/ gears.... hey, keep the 60 ft at 1.7-1.8 and the 12s are there!! Cool??
Just me...............................
Some results w/Ported Heads
'90 5.0 Hatch w/4 speed Toploader
Stock E7s and stock cam
13.30s
PORTED E7s and B cam installed 2* advanced
12.48 @ 108 mph
'93 LX 5.0 5 speed
stock E7s B cam
13.30
Ported E7s w/1.7s (3.55 gears)4* advanced on Cam
12.80 @ 106 mph
Thumper
Just me...............................
Some results w/Ported Heads
'90 5.0 Hatch w/4 speed Toploader
Stock E7s and stock cam
13.30s
PORTED E7s and B cam installed 2* advanced
12.48 @ 108 mph
'93 LX 5.0 5 speed
stock E7s B cam
13.30
Ported E7s w/1.7s (3.55 gears)4* advanced on Cam
12.80 @ 106 mph
Thumper
