JunkYard Horsepower/Upgrades?

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Lots of parts

I went to a Mustang-only junkyard to look around. They had a 95 Cobra sitting by the building that was wrecked. But the complete intake manifold was good, and it would fit on my 94 GT. Unfortunately they didn't want to seel that to me seems how they was gonna rebuild the Cobra. But there is lots of parts at junkyards that are good. As long as they're for sale. :D
 
Junkyard Upgrades - 70 MM MAF from 94-95 5.0 Mustang. easy bolt in, requires a $30 adapter flange to mate to rubber air inlet duct.

Explorer/GT40 intake manifold from 95-97 Explorers and Mercury Mountaineers. A one day worth of labor bolt up, needs new EGR spacer & gaskets. You'll spent most of the time scraping and cleaning off old gaskets.

65 MM throttle body from same vehicles as above. Need to make a adapter plate to make throttle linkage fit, or have the arm from your old throttle body welded on the 65 MM TB. Total time about 4 hours, including cleaning off the gasket surfaces.

3.55 or 3.73 rear axle with disk brakes from 87-88 Thunderbird Turbo Coupe. The 5 speed TC's had 3.55's, the auto's had 3.73's. Two full days worth of work including the brake overhaul. You'll need a buddy to help on this one.

PM or Email me for more details [email protected]
 
jrichker said:
Explorer/GT40 intake manifold from 95-97 Explorers and Mercury Mountaineers. A one day worth of labor bolt up, needs new EGR spacer & gaskets. You'll spent most of the time scraping and cleaning off old gaskets.


Is that the same manifold that ford motorsport just dis-continued? I was going to go with it when i bought all my parts, but had to get the perfomer rpm instead :shrug:
 
jrichker said:
3.55 or 3.73 rear axle with disk brakes from 87-88 Thunderbird Turbo Coupe. The 5 speed TC's had 3.55's, the auto's had 3.73's. Two full days worth of work including the brake overhaul. You'll need a buddy to help on this one.

PM or Email me for more details [email protected]


do you mean that the rear end (whole thing axles and all.) will fit? what about brake lines issues caused by converting to disc? will the factory pony rims fit? will the drive shaft fit?

I'm asking cuz I need a gear and a posi rebuild.

can you list any modifications that would need to be made in order for this conversion to take place.

thanks
 
dub976 said:
do you mean that the rear end (whole thing axles and all.) will fit? what about brake lines issues caused by converting to disc? will the factory pony rims fit? will the drive shaft fit?

I'm asking cuz I need a gear and a posi rebuild.

can you list any modifications that would need to be made in order for this conversion to take place.

thanks


Yup everyting bolts right up little modification required. You will need 93 Cobra E-Brake cables to use the parking brake and possibly a bigger MAster Cylinder. I have a complete Turbo Coupe Rear end for sale PM if intrested. :)
 
jrichker said:
Junkyard Upgrades - 70 MM MAF from 94-95 5.0 Mustang. easy bolt in, requires a $30 adapter flange to mate to rubber air inlet duct.

They come with 70mm maf stock? I never knew that. Will it just be able to clip in and go?(plus the inlet duct) Is it the correct sensor as compared to mine? My friend is getting a new mass air for his 94, so perhaps I may have to snag this one. :nice:
 
dub976 said:
do you mean that the rear end (whole thing axles and all.) will fit? what about brake lines issues caused by converting to disc? will the factory pony rims fit? will the drive shaft fit?

I'm asking cuz I need a gear and a posi rebuild.

can you list any modifications that would need to be made in order for this conversion to take place.

thanks

Been there and done that! With success! :nice:

It takes 2 guys the first day to get the old rear end out and the new one bolted in place. It takes 1 guy another whole day to do the brakes.

Auto trans Turbo Coupes come with 3.73 gears and manual Turbo Coupes come with 3.55 gears. I choose 3.55 since I do more highway driving.

You will need a several sets of fittings, I recommend that you get them from Matt90GT's website, http://www.svo73mm.cjb.net/. Read Matt's instructions thoroughly, everything you need to know about the brakes is all there. You need to be patient and follow all the internal links, and there are many of them. You will need 2 fittings in the rear to adapt your old brake tubing to the TC disk brakes. The fittings go between the steel tube and the caliper brake hose. You will need another set of fittings to make a 2 port to 3 port adapter. To make life simpler, just buy the kits from Matt. You could piece them together, but it's not worth the time unless you work at an auto parts store with all the fittings ever made. You will need to drill the quad shock mounting holes 2” below the holes drilled for the Turbo Coupe mounting points. The bolts are metric, so don’t loose them or the nuts. A 15/32” drill should be about the right size unless you have access to metric sized drill bits. Going without quad shocks is not an option unless you have aftermarket parts to soak up the wheel hop.

You will need a proportioning valve, Summit has one for $40 + shipping.
You will need a kit (FMS makes the part) to gut the stock proportioning valve, Summit also has that, about $10.

You will need a new master cylinder, see Matt's site and make you choice. I used a 94-95 Mustang master cylinder. Note that rebuilt 94-95 Mustang master cylinders do not come with a reservoir. That means a trip to the junkyard and some more money spent.
Your brake pedal may be very hard and almost impossible to lock up the brakes. I had to replace the front calipers with 73 mm calipers from a 91 Lincoln Mark 8 to get the braking performance up to par.

Bleeding the brakes will require 2 people and some coordinated effort. I don’t recommend using you wife or girlfriend to pump the pedal – they get offended when you yell at them. I used a homemade power brake bleeder constructed from a garden sprayer and some fittings from Home Depot. It cost about $25 and was worth every penny.

See http://www.mustangcentral.net/tech/brake.html for help with the emergency brake. The ebrake handle on 87 and later models must be modified by removing the spring, and tack welding the pawl and ratchet assembly.
All in all I have been very pleased with the results.
 
5.0GT said:
They come with 70mm maf stock? I never knew that. Will it just be able to clip in and go?(plus the inlet duct) Is it the correct sensor as compared to mine? My friend is getting a new mass air for his 94, so perhaps I may have to snag this one.

The 70 MM MAF is a bolt on and go when you buy the flange to slip on duct adapter. See http://www.pro-flow.com/old files/apchart.htm for more MAFs that will fit.
 
jrichker said:
The 70 MM MAF is a bolt on and go when you buy the flange to slip on duct adapter. See http://www.pro-flow.com/old files/apchart.htm for more MAFs that will fit.

Nice site there. So looking at it, does that mean I can use any MAF sensor that has the Pro-m 19 curve? Does it have to be for 19 pound injectors, or will any pro-m 19 curve work?
 
5.0GT said:
Sorry to quote myself again, but does anyone know about this? It seems like I would be able to find some other cars easier than a 94-95 gt in the junkyard.

Should work the OK as long as the engine displacement & injectors are the same as a 5.0. You probably could use a 4.6 or 5.4 80 MM MAF if it used 19 lb injectors. I'd call or email Pro-M and ask them to be sure.

I had my sights on a 80 MM MAF for 19 lb injectors, but couldn't find one at the junkyard that I had a credit with. The 80 MM MAF's use a different electrical connector, but all you would need to do is use a safety pin to release the contacts from the 80 MM's connector. Then you can install the 80MM MAF's connector on your wiring harness.
 
Another junkyard upgrade is always an electric fan from a taurus, sable, V-6 mustang, or lincoln mark VIII. These can give you up to 15 more rwhp...and help cooling too. Just get a 30 amp relay, wire them up to a temp sensor or to a switch, and you're good to go...if you get the mark VIII fan, you may have to trim it so it will be thin enough to give you clearance for your w/p pulley, but it's not that much trouble...install usually takes about 2-3 hours total. :nice: