351w Q's??

[jst6]

contemplating going to a 351w instaed of a 306 (302 .030 over) but i have a couple of q's

1. are all 1982+ 351's a roller block or will it have to be converted. some cam co's say yes others say no and i can't get a definate answer.

2. i plan on getting my stock c4 built again to handle the extra stress of the engine. will this trans work or should i pop the extra and get a race c4 for $2k? info: the stock c4 is a green dot and i would want to go to a 1-2-3.

3. any special oi pan or will a good milodon work?

4. when i do it i will replace my stock steel hood with a 3" cowl. anyone want to buy a hood in great condition? lol

any help is much appreciated

 

[SadbutTrue]

The only 351ws that came stock as rollers are the last of them... 95-95 I think. Not worth the extra time, expense, and price imo. The C4 should work, I use a C4 behind my 351w with a stock rebuild, but my 351w is not htat aggressive.

 

[mustangdave]

The old "green dot" trannys are thye weakest of the lot. In 1970, Ford made major changes to the C4 and the early 70 trannys are the strongest stock. They would be fine with a moderate build and can be beefed up to handle well over 1,000 h.p.

 

[65and68Stang]

My 351W is a front sump type and I'm running a 8qt. Milodon pan (part number MIL-30926 at Summit). I have power steering and there are no clearance issues.

Kelton

 

[rbohm]

contemplating going to a 351w instaed of a 306 (302 .030 over) but i have a couple of q's

1. are all 1982+ 351's a roller block or will it have to be converted. some cam co's say yes others say no and i can't get a definate answer.

2. i plan on getting my stock c4 built again to handle the extra stress of the engine. will this trans work or should i pop the extra and get a race c4 for $2k? info: the stock c4 is a green dot and i would want to go to a 1-2-3.

3. any special oi pan or will a good milodon work?

4. when i do it i will replace my stock steel hood with a 3" cowl. anyone want to buy a hood in great condition? lol

any help is much appreciated

1: 351w blocks were not set up as roller blocks untill the early 90's, but you dont need one if you want a roller cam. retrofit kits are sufficient.

2: all C4's can handle the power. what needs to be done depends on how much power you are trying to make from your 351. stock C4's handle 400hp with no problem when you add a shift kit.

3: depending on you application, any good 351w oil pan will work fine.

 

[bnickel]

only 94-97 351 w blocks were rollers. the casting # to look for is F4TE. on the oil pan make sure it is a front sump passenger car pan, trucks and vans are different as well as any fox body pan

 

[jst6]

ok i'm looking to get close to 540 on the motor and 690 with a 150 shot. so it lookis like i'm gonna have to pony up and get a beefed up tranny. thanks for the milodon part #.

the retro kits might not work as i'm looking at a rough idle cam that needs a strong hydro roller lifter (if there is such a thing). anyone with exp with a retrofit roller cam?

 

[bnickel]

yes only trucks had the 351 from 94-97, but the oil pan won't work in the early cars. don't bother with the oil pickup relocation, just buy the correct pickup for an early passenger car and the correct pan

 

[imshaggy2000]

Since you are going for those numbers and are going to need forged pistons and forged rods you might as well do a stroker kit. 408 is a good number and will make, making 540 hp NA alot easyer. You can go all the way up to 427 if you want though. The cheepest place to buy a kit is probably e-bay there are tons of options from reputable companies that do specials on e-bay. You may want to consider a 69-74 block if you are wanting to get 690 hp out of it 69 being the first and best year for the 351w.

ok i'm looking to get close to 540 on the motor and 690 with a 150 shot. so it lookis like i'm gonna have to pony up and get a beefed up tranny. thanks for the milodon part #.

the retro kits might not work as i'm looking at a rough idle cam that needs a strong hydro roller lifter (if there is such a thing). anyone with exp with a retrofit roller cam?

 

[thehueypilot]

I am running what you are seeking.....The last of the 351W were put in F250's and came with roller rockers. I have a 96 block that came stock with rollers. There is a differnce between a true roller block and pre-roller blocks. You can put a roller cam into a non-roller block but you have to install a special reduced base circle cam. This is because the lifter bores are shorter in a non-roller block and roller lifters are longer then flat tappet lifters.

 

[jst6]

thanks huey, that was exactly what i was looking for! i didn't know the exact diff's between a non-roller and a roller block. the only info i could find was to put a spider in the lifter valley to hold the lifters. none of the cam sites said anything about journal size.

it looks like i'm in the hunt for a 94 to 97 5.8L.

btw, i don't think i'm gonna stroke it. but i am going to use a forged bottom end, most likely canfield heads and intake, rocker girdles and stud girdles, and a performance auto c4.

thanks again for ur help

 

[thehueypilot]

You can find a lot of 351W 1996 - 1997 at the junk yards, but expect to rebuild them. Avoid the acronym "RVG" which translates in junk yard speak "runs very good" which means: when it was brand new at the factory.

 

[TireSmoknWindsr]

Kinda half hijacking here but that brought up an idea to me. With the roller motors were they just available in the F-250? What are the tolerances of the motors crank, rods, etc as far as power they can handle. I'm plannin on givin the Mach engine hell until the old 5.0 craps out and then planning a 5.8 build. Hopefully budget would even allow the 393W. What would be any major advantages to it?

 

[thehueypilot]

These blocks can be found in F350's as well but not a lot out there. The big difference in blocks is the 5.0 has a 2.248" main bearing and the 351W has a 3.000" dia. Truck motors usally have low compression ratio's. Remember the old saying: There is no substitute for CUBIC INCHES.

 

[jst6]

There is no substitute for CUBIC INCHES.

dont you mean: There is no RE-placement for DIS-placement! lol

tiresmoker, if you build a 292 stroker you will have to replace the stock bottom end anyway. when you relpace it with your setup you will be able to choose your hp rating based on the limit of your budget. you should be able to build a 600+ hp stroker fro less than $7K. I've figured (on the high side) that with a stock crank, h-beam rods, fordged pistons at 11.0:1 comp with alum heads it will run very close to 7K but then i'm going to be building it for spray and i don't want to spend 2K less then blow that motor and spend another 5K, ya know? beter to go the extra mile now then to repeat the race.

 

[classic boost]

you can use a standard base circle hydro roller cam on a non-roller block if you use crane roller lifters. no "spider assembly" is required. unfortunately the lifters cost $450.