Overdrive slipping/surging

[95DRGT]

My AODE seems to be slipping or going in and out of what I think is lockup??

While crusing at 2k I give it a little gas and the RPM's go up 500 before the tranny reacts- it seems to catch or surge at that point and then accelerates.

Above 2500 it seems to do a little better and doesn't react as bad.


Is this the TQ going bad or indication the OD band is shot or something else?

Tranny has about 15k on a rebuild 18months ago.

 

[bjl95mustang]

If you set the cruise with the OD on and you go up a slight hill what happens? If you tap the gas while cruising do the rpm's move or do the rpm's fluctuate with the tap of the gas? When you are cruising and turn off the OD how does it feel? How does it feel when you turn it back on? So it's like when you are cruising and go to pass someone and you accelerate you have to give it some gas before the tranny reacts and it feels like it releases and then you stat to accelerate?

 

[95DRGT]

Exactly to your last question bj95

Seems to work fine in OD with cruise set going up a hill- it pulls like it should

A quick tap on the gas in OD it reacts fine

With OD off it pulls fine- I drive with it off 90% of the time and only switch it on when I'm up to cruising speed about 70 mph.

I have noticed that once I switch it on at 70 or so it seems to hesitate to engage sometimes- you have to get the RPM's up or down for it to go into OD.

 

[bjl95mustang]

So it's like you have to tap the gas to get the OD to engage?

 

[94SLOWBRA]

Exactly to your last question bj95

Seems to work fine in OD with cruise set going up a hill- it pulls like it should

A quick tap on the gas in OD it reacts fine

With OD off it pulls fine- I drive with it off 90% of the time and only switch it on when I'm up to cruising speed about 70 mph.

I have noticed that once I switch it on at 70 or so it seems to hesitate to engage sometimes- you have to get the RPM's up or down for it to go into OD.

I am having a hard time understanding what you are trying to say.

The AODE will shift into 3rd gear, then it will usually engage the Torque converter clutch, then it will shift into 4th or OD, then engage the TCC again. When the TCC is engaged you have a solid connection between the converter to the output shaft, basically its just like a clutch on a stick shift car(there is no converter slip with the TCC engaged). Now when the TCC is engaged and you try to lightly accelerate(say 1/4 throttle or less) the rpms will not move much, because the converter is not stalling anymore, it is locked. If you give it to much gas the TCC will disengage first, which will cause the rpms to go anywhere from 200-500 higher than they were with the TCC engaged, then it will possibly downshift to 3rd or 2nd gear depending on the amount of throttle you give it, and what speed the car is at. Most the time when you are say going up a steep hill, it will just dissengage the TCC, but the tranny will stay in 4th gear. To be quite honest the AODE/4R70W have problems with both Torque Converter shudder and OD bands burning. The Torque converter clutch shudder is really common, but mostly happens with AODE/4R70W's with quite a few miles on them and non serviced transmissions. What kind of converter are you running, was it replaced new when you had it overhauled?

I work on these for a living by the way, so feel free to ask any questions.
I have explained the basic operation to you, hopefully this will help you, if not try to explain the problem again, because I am not really understanding what exactly the problem is.

 

[Mrgreen94gt]

It sounds like there isn't enough power/gearing to motivate the car in OD with the converter locked up, so it unlocks the converter to move it. Mine used to that a lot when I had 3.55s, but not so much now with 4.10. It's just more inclined to downshift when I lean on the throttle a little to pass, now.

 

[bjl95mustang]

I am having a hard time understanding what you are trying to say.

The AODE will shift into 3rd gear, then it will usually engage the Torque converter clutch, then it will shift into 4th or OD, then engage the TCC again. When the TCC is engaged you have a solid connection between the converter to the output shaft, basically its just like a clutch on a stick shift car(there is no converter slip with the TCC engaged). Now when the TCC is engaged and you try to lightly accelerate(say 1/4 throttle or less) the rpms will not move much, because the converter is not stalling anymore, it is locked. If you give it to much gas the TCC will disengage first, which will cause the rpms to go anywhere from 200-500 higher than they were with the TCC engaged, then it will possibly downshift to 3rd or 2nd gear depending on the amount of throttle you give it, and what speed the car is at. Most the time when you are say going up a steep hill, it will just dissengage the TCC, but the tranny will stay in 4th gear. To be quite honest the AODE/4R70W have problems with both Torque Converter shudder and OD bands burning. The Torque converter clutch shudder is really common, but mostly happens with AODE/4R70W's with quite a few miles on them and non serviced transmissions. What kind of converter are you running, was it replaced new when you had it overhauled?

I work on these for a living by the way, so feel free to ask any questions.
I have explained the basic operation to you, hopefully this will help you, if not try to explain the problem again, because I am not really understanding what exactly the problem is.

I think what he is describing is normal. Have you ever used dr tranny's shudder fix on any transmissions?

 

[AznStanger3v]

i thought AODEs hesitate anyways when pushing in the gas. Unless there is a stall and torque convertor

 

[bjl95mustang]

i thought AODEs hesitate anyways when pushing in the gas. Unless there is a stall and torque convertor

The stall speed is part of the converter.

 

[AznStanger3v]

The stall speed is part of the converter.

i learn new things everyday

 

[94SLOWBRA]

I think what he is describing is normal. Have you ever used dr tranny's shudder fix on any transmissions?

Dr Tranny?

Never heard of it. I try to stay away from additives, Usually if the shudder isn't to bad, you can just pull the rubber plug at the bottom of the bellhousing and turn the engine over until you find the drain plug in the converter. Drain the converter, and then drop the pan and throw a new filter on. Refill with fresh new Mercon III. Magically the shudder is gone.

Ford basically says the shudder is from fluid breakdown, I would agree to a degree, but I also feel their converters are *****. Some shudder bad enough that the above work will not fix them, so that requires pulling the tranny and replacing the converter. If I was in that spot and low on cash, I might give something like "Dr Tranny" a try. But I sure as hell wouldn't put stuff like that in a problem free transmission. Ford objects to any and all additives, and it would certainly void your warranty if you had one.

 

[95DRGT]

I am having a hard time understanding what you are trying to say.

The AODE will shift into 3rd gear, then it will usually engage the Torque converter clutch, then it will shift into 4th or OD, then engage the TCC again. When the TCC is engaged you have a solid connection between the converter to the output shaft, basically its just like a clutch on a stick shift car(there is no converter slip with the TCC engaged). Now when the TCC is engaged and you try to lightly accelerate(say 1/4 throttle or less) the rpms will not move much, because the converter is not stalling anymore, it is locked. If you give it to much gas the TCC will disengage first, which will cause the rpms to go anywhere from 200-500 higher than they were with the TCC engaged, then it will possibly downshift to 3rd or 2nd gear depending on the amount of throttle you give it, and what speed the car is at. Most the time when you are say going up a steep hill, it will just dissengage the TCC, but the tranny will stay in 4th gear. To be quite honest the AODE/4R70W have problems with both Torque Converter shudder and OD bands burning. The Torque converter clutch shudder is really common, but mostly happens with AODE/4R70W's with quite a few miles on them and non serviced transmissions. What kind of converter are you running, was it replaced new when you had it overhauled?

I work on these for a living by the way, so feel free to ask any questions.
I have explained the basic operation to you, hopefully this will help you, if not try to explain the problem again, because I am not really understanding what exactly the problem is.

Sorry I'm doing a poor job of explaining this. Based on the explanation above I would say the TC is disengaging and engaging again but not downshifting. This tends to only happen with 1/4 throttle and seems to happen a couple of times like it is confused to engage or disengage.
If I lay into to it will downshift.

If the car was a standard it would feel like the clutch was slipping. RPM's go up but no more forward acceleration.

All I know is it didn't do this before. It just started this feeling in overdrive. The unit has 20k on it and a stock reman TC was put back in at that time (18 months ago)

I have 2.73's

 

[bjl95mustang]

Dr Tranny?

Never heard of it. I try to stay away from additives, Usually if the shudder isn't to bad, you can just pull the rubber plug at the bottom of the bellhousing and turn the engine over until you find the drain plug in the converter. Drain the converter, and then drop the pan and throw a new filter on. Refill with fresh new Mercon III. Magically the shudder is gone.

Ford basically says the shudder is from fluid breakdown, I would agree to a degree, but I also feel their converters are *****. Some shudder bad enough that the above work will not fix them, so that requires pulling the tranny and replacing the converter. If I was in that spot and low on cash, I might give something like "Dr Tranny" a try. But I sure as hell wouldn't put stuff like that in a problem free transmission. Ford objects to any and all additives, and it would certainly void your warranty if you had one.

The product is made by lube guard. It's a friction modifier and a few people online have tried it and said it has fixed their shudder problem. I have also heard as a last resort to the shudder problem some tech have used rear diff friction modifier in a trans to fix a shudder problem. Now seine he has a rebuild trans with only 20k on it should he use mercon v fluid? Isn't the v fluid better for shudder problems?

 

[yowzaid]

If the car was a standard it would feel like the clutch was slipping. RPM's go up but no more forward acceleration.

I would love to know what causes this , I have the same problem
1st,2nd,and 3rd are fine though. any advice would be great.

thanks




yow

 

[95DRGT]

OD is now gone- revs to 5k and nothing in 4th.

With OD on 1st through 3rd is fine but when it hits OD-

 

[bjl95mustang]

OD is now gone- revs to 5k and nothing in 4th.

With OD on 1st through 3rd is fine but when it hits OD-

i'm guessing your od band is burnt up.