Those of you with Pertronix

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Umm, I have a pertronix, but I'm not sure what you're talking about. I just followed the directions that were with the unit. I really had no knowledge about what I was doing.

Do you have directions? Or are you asking this in advance of receiving the parts?
 
Im pretty sure it will still work with the resistor wire left in (depending on how much the wire reduces the voltage), but ive been told that Pertronix recommends you use full 12 volts and i think it works better that way :shrug:
 
Pertronix II has built-in shut down safety switch if Key is left in 'on' position without engine running. Also II comes with automatic dwell that adjust according to RPM's for better performance. Pertronix I doesn't have all those features mentioned above.
 
I used to run my Ignitor with the resistor wire. While it did run better than with the points, it had a harder time starting. One day I decided to put my handy dandy Fluke meter to use and I found out that I was only getting 4 volts to the Ignitor at idle.

I dumped the resistor wire and added a .08 ohm resistor to get the required 1.5 ohm resistance specified by Pertronix as my Mallory Promaster coil only puts out about .07 ohms resistance. Now the Ignitor sees about 11 volts at idle and it starts much better.
 
Like Red Barchetta I'm running the Ignitor II and have some problems starting.

1. How do you measure the voltage across the ignitor?
2. How do you identify if you have a resistor wire there. I don't mean by color, how do you measure the wire resistance?
3. What's involved in getting rid of the resistor wire? How easy is it to get behind the dash on a '65?
 
geordie said:
Like Red Barchetta I'm running the Ignitor II and have some problems starting.

1. How do you measure the voltage across the ignitor?
2. How do you identify if you have a resistor wire there. I don't mean by color, how do you measure the wire resistance?
3. What's involved in getting rid of the resistor wire? How easy is it to get behind the dash on a '65?
I didn't measure voltage "across" the ignitor, just how much was going to it. Just get a multi meter and measure the voltage going to the ignitor. I measured where the positive wire for the ignitor is connected to the coil, as this is also where the coil takes it's power from the ignition switch.

To measure resistance, you need to connect one side of your multi meter to the positive wire going to the coil, and the other side to the switched 12 volts ignition wire from the ignition switch. Do this with the power off. You do not want the ignition switch on while measuring resistance.

It would be easier if I had a diagram. I do not, but this person has one for a '66:

http://www.hammar.dyndns.org/~djhamma/wiring.htm

I didn't link directly to the image as I don't want this person's site to get hammered. But if you click on the 1966 Mustang Ignition, Starting and Charging schematic, you can see what I mean.

I don't know exactly what the differences are in wiring between a '65 and '66, but the should be very similar in regards to the ignition. If anything, the '65's may not have the resistor wire as for some reason, I think I've heard they added this later on.

Start by connecting one end of the multi meter at the #16 wire (red-green) wire at the ignition switch. Then connect the other end at the #16 wire (again, red-green) on the positive side of the coil. From there, you should be able to measure the amount of resistance your ignition is experiencing.

Remember, this if for a '66, your colors may be different.

It can be a pain to remove the resistor wire as you might have to fish it out of the wiring harness. I ended up completely replacing the wire from the ingition to the coil, replacing a couple of connectors along the way.
 
Pertronix ignition

I have had this problem in my 68 302 engine involving Pertronix ignition and the "Pink resistor wire" located under the dash. If your pink resistor wire is working propertly, no problem leaving it intact while running pertronix ignition.
BUT, this pink resistor wire has a history of going bad and causing too much resistance and dropping the voltage very low at the coil. If this happens, you will have engine miss, and even the engine dying on you while going down the road. even after the engine dies, you may be able to start back up and go a little further and it dies again.
If this happens to you, you may want to cut out or bypass the pink resistor wire, the one that says, " do not cut or splice", and run a direct 12 volts to the coil from the ignition switch. a voltage check at the coil will tell you if your volts are too low, below 8-9 volts. You can run 12 volts if running a Pertronix ignitor I or II. BUT you must use a Pertronix 40,000 volt coil that has a resistor built into it. Other type of coils will more then likely fail having 12 volts going to them. Or you can mount a 1.5 ohm resistor on the firewall between the coil and ignition switch that will take the place of the pink resistor wire. If you run points instead of the Pertronix, you have to have a resistor in the line prior to the coil. If you do not, it will fry your points real quick like. I know from experience and it took alot of work and contacting people in the know before I found out what my problem was. In the meantime, I burn up a set of points and also fried one Pertronix ignitor. I am now runnig a Pertronix ignitor and coil combination. No problems.

68 dailydriver :spot:
 
Pertronix-pink resister wire

If the resister wire failed and allowed more voltage though, the most it would be would be 12 volts. this was not my case. My voltage had dropped down to around 4-5 volts at the coil because the pink resister wire crapped up and caused too much resistance to the voltage. All other cases I was made aware of was a result of severe voltage drop to the coil because of the resister wire going bad. The Pertronix unit will start acting up when the voltage gets down to 5-6 volts. Are you very sure about the voltage increasing instead of decreasing when the resistor wire fails.

68 dailydriver :shrug: