Ok, lets talk about Mustang handling...

Monkie

Active Member
Jan 27, 2002
1,678
0
37
Under the arch
What can a 4.6L with aftermarket suspension (MM kit, Kenny Brown kit, Steeda 5 link or Gtrac) beat on a road course? Given the drivers are both the same and they are both on street tires what can a 4.6L Mustang beat on a road course? I'm not talking about Auto-x where a guy in a 120hp Miata with a suspension will beat a Z06, I'm talking about a road course where both power and handling come into play. So how well can you get a solid axle 4.6L Mustang to handle?
 
  • Sponsors (?)


Monkie said:
What can a 4.6L with aftermarket suspension (MM kit, Kenny Brown kit, Steeda 5 link or Gtrac) beat on a road course? Given the drivers are both the same and they are both on street tires what can a 4.6L Mustang beat on a road course? I'm not talking about Auto-x where a guy in a 120hp Miata with a suspension will beat a Z06, I'm talking about a road course where both power and handling come into play. So how well can you get a solid axle 4.6L Mustang to handle?
Check out www.steeda.com or www.maximummotorsports.com

Both of those sites have sections where they talk about how their "race team" is doing and you can see some of the cars they beat... vettes, porsches, etc...
 
i got together with a few friends and did the "dragon run..hwy 129". my car has the stage III Steeda suspension but I have old stock tires on it right now (tires from '98). compared to my friends rides ('98 M3, '97 M3, '95 M3, '89 Vette) I would say that my car was close to the vette and a little behind the M3's. That was with very tight turns (dragon= 318 curves in 11 miles). When we took another route (hwy 28 i believe...just off the dragon) the curves were not as tight but still fun and I pulled away some (basically because of the supercharger) but not a lot. They go back every year about the same time so I plan to have better tires and new brakes for the next trip. I also learned that I had my suspension set to tight for the run. I think with a more experienced driver behind the wheel (first time doing the run and really the first time i pushed the car hard for an extended amount of time) someone could have driven it a lot better. The main thing is that we had fun and no one got hurt.
www.tailofthedragon.com ....search under photos sent to us 2003....charlotte dirtbags
 
Going for the twisties, eh? That's sort of my goal too. My car is a daily driver, so I want to be able to do more than a straight line. I've done the Tokico adjustables, currently set to 4 all around. This helps a lot on the corners. Also the MM subframes, full length. Other than that, I'm looking into sway bars and rear control arms. I want to beat my friend in his '98 ///M3. :banana:
 
89 blue lx said:
if you want the best i think you would have to go with griggs

What makes you think Griggs is better than Kenny Brown, MM, or Steeda? Not arguing with you or agreeing with you. Just testing your opinion to further educate myself. :D

Oh and guys, with the hardcore suspension setups they are just about all adjustable. How do you know what you should adjust the different suspension parts to to make them work together right? :shrug:
 
XTONKAX said:
Going for the twisties, eh? That's sort of my goal too. My car is a daily driver, so I want to be able to do more than a straight line. I've done the Tokico adjustables, currently set to 4 all around.

If I were you I would seriously change your shock and strut settings. I have the Tokico 5 ways in my MR2 so I am just telling you from my personal experience with them in that car (You might want to call Tokico or someone and ask them). But Since the engine is in the front and the rear is alot lighter it sounds like it would be better for you to set the front at 5 and the rear at 2, or that is what I would do. I was told by the whole MR2 comunity basically to set my shocks at 1 on the front and 4 on the rear because the front has alot less weight than the rear. So you really might want to look into that!
 
Hmm... I've always understood it to be the opposite for the mustang. For cornering, I don't really want the body roll. :shrug: I've been wrong before. I'm willing to try anything though. I need to cut out a trap door to get to the rear shocks more readily.
 
The problem with mustangs and handling is that you basically have to re-do the whole suspension geomotry because as it comes stock its roll center is really high... and lowering it only makes that worse...

Fortunately there is a decent aftermarket for this kinda stuff... although it's kinda pricey...

And about the Griggs thing... from what I have heard Griggs is the lightest weight of the suspension components available... but there is also problems with breaking... Griggs would be more ideal for a pretty much pure track car whereas MM or Steeda would be better for a street/track car... I don't know too much about Kenny Brown...
 
XTONKAX said:
Hmm... I've always understood it to be the opposite for the mustang. For cornering, I don't really want the body roll. :shrug: I've been wrong before. I'm willing to try anything though. I need to cut out a trap door to get to the rear shocks more readily.

Thats why I said if I were you I would call someone that does know for sure. Because I'm not 100% sure.
 
I have d&d front k-member and camber plates... had to be done to front mount the turbo... but I don't reallt notice a true difference... never do any courses or anything... can take a 45 mile per hour exit ramp at like 80ish... thats as extreme as I get.