Desprate - Still Need Help With Adding A 10W7 and 500/1 JL Amp to 2000 GT Mach 460>>>

[SilverStallion]

I am starting to run out of patience. I have purchased and installed the system in the pic below:

JL 10W7 in a sealed enclosure (Custom built to JL Specs)
JL 500/1 Monoblock SUb Amp

I have followed the Mustangworld article on adding a sub to the Mach 460 100% accurately. I even have the line level adapter installed, and my signal sense on the amp will only turn on when I virtually crank the stock head unit, and even then, the sub does not respond. As soon as I turn the system down, the amp shuts off. It almost appears that it is not getting a signal, yet I tapped into and soldered extensions onto the datacable in the back window -- 2 black wires with green stripes = positive and clack with white stripes are negative.

Should I run the remote wire to the amp right to the battery with an inline fuse, and then run a toggle switch on the dash to turn it on/off? Would this be a better option?

Has anyone else attempted this install on a 2000 GT with the Mach 460? Any tips or sugestions would be appreciated. After spending $2000.00 plus on this system, as well as investing many hours on getting the box/amp rack just right, I am getting quite discouraged.
~Darren

 

[canes8301]

I have the same amp and had the same problem. I ended up tapping the line-level converter directly to the positive and negative of the rear 5x7 woofers. You will probably have to extend the wires on the converter to reach each speaker. Also, you will need to drill a hole in the Mach enclosure, to run the wires through. You will not have run need to run a remote wire either because the signal will be enough to turn the amp on. Since doing this I have had no problems and it sound great. Hope this helps.

 

[Flie50]

I don't know so much about adding an amp to the 460 systems, but I have heard of a few people who have had trouble doing it. What is happening is the signal running through the remote turn on wire is not strong enough, and it's not enough to tell the amp to turn on. The reason it comes on when you turn the deck way up is because the amp realizes the signal coming from the deck through the rcs's is hot enough that it tells the amp to turn on, but still no sound will come out. I'm going to say your only solution is to run a 16 gauge wire from the remote turn on wire from your dec, or if you can't get to it something like your cigarette lighter. Then just buy a toggle switch and put in in your armrest somewhere. If you would like I can post some pictures of what I did to wire a neon light in my trunk. But as far as the amp turning on that's pretty much all I know. I don't have experience installing JL amps so I don't know if there is anything specific they need, but it sounds like my suggestion would fix your problem.

 

[saxman9801]

Hey man does your amp have both a remote input and signal sense? rather than running a hot wire from the battery, just grab the ignition wire in the deck harness and use that for the remote then the amp will come on when you turn the key on. good luck let me know if you need more help Dan

 

[Flie50]

That will also work if you can find the ignition wire.

 

[SilverStallion]

I have the same amp and had the same problem. I ended up tapping the line-level converter directly to the positive and negative of the rear 5x7 woofers. You will probably have to extend the wires on the converter to reach each speaker. Also, you will need to drill a hole in the Mach enclosure, to run the wires through. You will not have run need to run a remote wire either because the signal will be enough to turn the amp on. Since doing this I have had no problems and it sound great. Hope this helps.

Great advice - thanks. Now, to clarify, how do access these wires? Do I have to drop that entire black box out of the back window? Do I access from the car (ie. back seat) or from the trunk? I am just trying to get a sense on how I will access these wires.

Thanks again for the assistance - I appreciate it.
~Darren

 

[saxman9801]

Great advice - thanks. Now, to clarify, how do access these wires? Do I have to drop that entire black box out of the back window? Do I access from the car (ie. back seat) or from the trunk? I am just trying to get a sense on how I will access these wires.

Thanks again for the assistance - I appreciate it.
~Darren

You can find these wires underneath the box, you should not ahve to drop it you will see them come out of the box and they are all taped together you should be able to find them there, and to help with your other post i agree that you probally have the polarity wrong on one of the wires, or you have the level goofed up on the level converter, or possibily the wrong wires grabbed, good luck dan
did the ignition wire trick work for you???

 

[ASchaffer]

Sorry didnt have time to read all of the responses...lack of time... But if you run the remote wire to the amp you should be good. The signal sense feature on the amp was made for mainly highs and mids. It says in the manual that if you are using the amp for a sub, then you should run a wire for the remote turn on. And make sure you turn off the signal sense feature when you run the wire. Sorry if someone has already mentioned this.

 

[canes8301]

What I did was drop the enclosure so I could get the 5x7's. I drilled two holes in the enclosure, one on the right and one on the left side. I extended the wires on the converter, using 18 gauge speaker wire, so I could run the wires through the enclosure and connect them to + and - on each 5x7. The converter will still be in the trunk, so you can adjust it. Flemworld.com shows how to drop the Mach enclosure. Let me know if you have any other questions. Hope this helps.