humble request for people buying new Mustangs

[66Satellite]

To those of you purchasing a new Mustang, I'd like request the following:

Let your car warm up a minute or two after starting, then drive gently until the engine is warmed up all the way.

Strictly follow the maintenance schedule, perhaps erring on the side of too many oil changes.

Keep ALL your maintenance records.

And if you make modifications, please save ALL your old parts.

I want to have some nice cars to chose from when you all trade your 05s in on 06s, 07s, 08s, etc.

Thanks

 

[66stangowner]

you forgot to tell people to brake in there engines gently, dont just floor it after u take it off the lot. The car needs 1000-2000 miles to get everything settled down. Ill take it easy on mine till about 3000 just to be on the safe side because i will love that car just as much as i love my 66.

I dont think ill trade my GT in, sorry. Not even for a Boss or Mach or SVT. Dont get me wrong, i would love to have one of those too. But if i can afford a 40k sports car, it will be a Cobra kit car with a 427. It might cost me a bit more then those but it will be worth it. (maybe 50K)

For now a 300hp GT will be just fine for me.

 

[stangmi]

you should not be too gentle in breaking in a new engine

after the engines warmed up. you need to rev it up from time to time in order to sit the piston ring tight with the wall.

 

[66Satellite]

after the engines warmed up. you need to rev it up from time to time in order to sit the piston ring tight with the wall.

Yeah, I just came across that theory today. Pretty interesting.

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

You still want to make sure your engine is warmed all the way up before you do that--and that doesn't mean just the oil temp being at normal. You should allow time for the block, pistons, etc., to get all the way up to normal operating temp before you start flogging it.

 

[stangmi]

I found this from a Honda civic forum.

pissedoffsol Posted: Sep 28 2002, 12:36 PM


0hh n03s!11! My m3g4h\/|27z h4v3 833|\| s70l3d


Group: Admin
Posts: 19,276
Member No.: 1
Joined: 28-September 02



let the engine idle for 10 min then idle at 2000 rpm for 10 min. turn car off and let it settle for about 5-10 min.

0-200 miles.
Try to keep the highest rpm under 3000 rpm. Every 15-20 miles,spin the engine to 4500 rpm in first and sometimes in second gear.

200-400 miles.
Try to keep the revs limited to 3500 rpm. Raise the revs rpm to 5500 with the same frequency as above.

400-600 miles.
Go to 4000 rpm for driving limit. Raise the revs to 6000 - 6500 rpm and include 3rd gear pulls, same frequency as above.

600-800 miles.
4500 rpm driving limit. rev it to 7000 rpm and include partial 4th gear pulls.

800-1K miles.
5000 rpm limit with revs to 7500 with some pulls all the way through 4th and partial fifth gear pulls.


Use non synthetic oil for the first 500 miles, change oil with non synthetic,(it is not necessary to change the filter) then once you meet the 1000 mile mark go ahead and change it with a full synthetic and a new oil filter.

Using regular - non-synthetic - is also at your option, but pick one or the other to use from this point forward. Chaging back and forth is NOT a good idea.

I personally find synthetic too weak for my motor. It doesn't have enough umph and VTEC ngagement doesn't happen because of the oil pressure factor not being there. This will depend greatly on the motor and what you have done to it, however.


--------------------

 

[scottie1113]

you forgot to tell people to brake in there engines gently, dont just floor it after u take it off the lot. The car needs 1000-2000 miles to get everything settled down. Ill take it easy on mine till about 3000 just to be on the safe side because i will love that car just as much as i love my 66.

I dont think ill trade my GT in, sorry. Not even for a Boss or Mach or SVT. Dont get me wrong, i would love to have one of those too. But if i can afford a 40k sports car, it will be a Cobra kit car with a 427. It might cost me a bit more then those but it will be worth it. (maybe 50K)

For now a 300hp GT will be just fine for me.

Have you checked out www.superformance .com ?

I think they're the best Cobra replicars around.

 

[66stangowner]

Thanks for the site.

But its something i want to do around the age of 35. right now im 21 so i got a ways to go till i can afford that as a weekend car.

 

[351CJ]

you forgot to tell people to brake in there engines gently, dont just floor it after u take it off the lot. The car needs 1000-2000 miles to get everything settled down. Ill take it easy on mine till about 3000 just to be on the safe side because i will love that car just as much as i love my 66.

Haven't any of you guys been to an engine assembly plant or a final assembly plant?

As soon as your "new" engine was completed it is run wide open right up to red-line on the engine test stand.

Then at the end of the assembly line that engine that's been shoved up into your car is run up to speed on a chassis dyno. - no gentle warm up either.

Next the yard jockies blast your car all over the holding lots and the rail yards (before and after they're loaded and unloaded on / off the trains).

Finally, if there are any miles on your car when you buy it, you can be sure the dealer salesmen have been flogging you new car around. Haven't any of you guys read all the stories (here on StangNet and other Mustang forums) about the dealer people beating the snot out of the Cobras and Mach 1s when they get them?

Buy it, stick your foot into it and have fun.

 

[shatner saves]

Yeah, I just came across that theory today. Pretty interesting.

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

You still want to make sure your engine is warmed all the way up before you do that--and that doesn't mean just the oil temp being at normal. You should allow time for the block, pistons, etc., to get all the way up to normal operating temp before you start flogging it.

I knew a guy at a marine powertrain manufacturer (who will remain nameless) that would do dyno endurance and thermal shock tests. The break in procedure took about 8 hours, basically starting off running at a fast idle with a little bit of load and increasing rpm/load over the course of the break-in. Between the increments, he would briefly return the engine to idle. He claimed (kind of like the moto-man break in), that it was really important not to run the engine, at any RPM or for any sidnificant period of time, with no load on it.

Obviously, this type of break in would be difficult to do in a car.

 

[96MuscleStang]

Buy it, stick your foot into it and have fun.

AMEN!!!!!!!!

 

[aete2]

 

[66stangowner]

Haven't any of you guys been to an engine assembly plant or a final assembly plant?

As soon as your "new" engine was completed it is run wide open right up to red-line on the engine test stand.

Then at the end of the assembly line that engine that's been shoved up into your car is run up to speed on a chassis dyno. - no gentle warm up either.

Next the yard jockies blast your car all over the holding lots and the rail yards (before and after they're loaded and unloaded on / off the trains).

Finally, if there are any miles on your car when you buy it, you can be sure the dealer salesmen have been flogging you new car around. Haven't any of you guys read all the stories (here on StangNet and other Mustang forums) about the dealer people beating the snot out of the Cobras and Mach 1s when they get them?

Buy it, stick your foot into it and have fun.

Well u do what you want with your car but my car wont be treated like some dumper. They dont just turn an engine on and redline it right away. If you know how complicated an internal combustion engine is then you would understang why the engine needs to be broken in. You think Ford is gonna allow someone to redline a bran new engine while its cold, that might damege the internals and the person who onws that car will bring it back. Ive seen how the run these things for the first time, they put it on a dyno, rev it a little. Then they start shifting and take it up to about 70mph. Now the dealer might run them hard because they have no care for the cars at all. But when you buy a new car it has like 7 miles on it and thats not gonna do much. Trust me, you will have a better car if you take care of it. It costs so much, why risk damaging it. But its your car, do what you want with it, but dont laugh at someone for wanting to take car of there car.

 

[351CJ]

Ive seen how the run these things for the first time, they put it on a dyno, rev it a little. Then they start shifting and take it up to about 70mph.

You're talking about how they test the cars on the chassis dyno at the end of the assembly line. The cars are NOT fully warmed up. They start them up drive them off the assy line track and over to the chassis dyno and run up to 70 as soon as they can.

However, the engines are run on a test stand at the engine ass'y plant before they are installed in the car. They do not waste a lot of time warming them up or taking them up to max RPM slow.

Manufacturing tollerances are so tight these days that break in like was required 50 years ago is not required. The ONLY 2 things you should do when breaking in your new car is; DO NOT run it at a constant RPM for the first 1,000 mile or so. Make sure you vary the RPM including taking it up to red line. The other think is DO NOT jam on the brakes until you've worn it the brake pads a bit.

Other than that, JUST FLOG THE DAMN THING. Cars that are driven hard (but not abused) are better in the long run than those that are driven by grandma.

 

[MustangSteve007]

I have a v6 2002 and i floor that thing once or twice a day because the thing is so damn slow.... cant wait for the GT

 

[Fastback61]

I will be keeping my GT....

Once I customize it, I wont want to trade up for the Mach or the SVT. Probably couldnt afford it anyway