will stock rebuild on my brakes suffice for simple street/stip use?

[svasica]

I don't wanna go spend an arm and a leg on my brakes on my '91 5.0 because its a street/strip car that doesn't need the biggest brakes out there, it won't see any road course. If I rebuilt my stock brakes with perhaps new calipers, new slotted or cross drilled rotors, bled the system, and did a simple rebuild on the back drums, would it bring my brakes up to par enough so that they don't shudder at the end of the 1/4? I don't know if I wanna go with the SVT calipers or anything similar to that because I've heard horror stories of the pedal going to the floor even after the MC switch. What rotors would be good for my application, the stockers, cross drilled, or slotted? Do calipers go bad (I have about 200K miles on the car)? I guess I'm asking if a good stock rebuild with good pads and a good set of drilled or slotted rotors and bled system will feel better than the shuddering and poor brakeing i'm getting now?

 

[91cobraR]

I'm sorry but I couldn't imagine going back to stock brakes even for daily driving. At the very least upgrade to a better pad! I seriously doubt you would notice just upgrading the rotors to a slotted one. Although if you upgrade to a better pad slotted rotors will help the brake cooling and degasing. Pads also won't glaze up like stock ones. There are kits that are reasonable to upgrade your brakes keeping your 4-lugs. SBSC, Wilwood, and Baer all make kits for front or rear systems. Even upgrading to a rear disc brake set-up from a turbo coupe or 93 cobra would be beneficial.

 

[DropTopR]

I'd say yes

 

[svasica]

Well, I have aftermarket pads now, I didn't keep the stock pads obviously.

1) What pads would you recommend?
2) What rotors?
3) Should I buy new OEM calipers?
4) I will be bleeding the brakes and putting in the Ford 3 hydraulic fliud.

I don't wanna go with the Baer or wildwood brakes because it'll end up costing A LOT more than doin a stock rebuild.

 

[89MustangGX]

I don't have a problem running stock type brakes in my car, but I have run upgraded in other Mustangs and they are nice. As for what to run -- I'd run some decent American made rotors, some Performance Friction brake pads (can get from AutoZone) or similar, check the rubber lines to make sure they're not cracked or anything. I wouldn't change the calipers unless you think they may be hanging up, but they are easy to change -- and if you plant o bleed the brakes anyway, it won't be any more difficult excetp for the one banjo bolt you have to take off.

 

[millhouse]

I once rebuilt my stock brakes. The calipers are very cheap, so I figured I'd just replace those. The same goes with the rear wheel cylinders.

With that being said, after I rebuilt them...it took one trip down the 1/4 mile to warp the rotors.

If your going to do it right, you might as well go balls to the wall. If your going to spend some money, do it right. The stock brakes are fine for everyday driving, but not for anything over 70mph.

I've dont the sn95 conversion (99+) and will never go back. Hell, if I ever buy another fox, it will be the first thing mod.

 

[custom89stang]

spend 700$ and get rear disc brakes, that'll be all you need, it'll stop like a 94-2004 car

 

[QDRHRSE]

Don't touch the brakes! If the calipers and or brake cylinders aren't leaking don't bother. Put good pads and shoes in and call it a day. Unless you do a lot of canyon driving or autocross why bother. Stock brakes will work fine on the street and will surely slow you down at the track. I admit that high dollar brakes are nice to have but they are not necessary. Probably 90% of the guys that buy the expensive brakes don't need em'. Besides a strip car doesn't need a lot of stopping power. They give you alot of space to stop at the track. I've never seen 5.0 not stop have enough room to stop at any track....including cars like mine with manual light weight aerospace brakes (which don't work that great anyway).

 

[bln92cpe]

I have the front and rear disc brakes from a 93 cobra in my 92 LX. The thing stops on a dime. I would definately upgrade your brakes. A lot of people rely on stock brakes. I would get the best brakes you can afford or save $ for them. There is nothing worse than flying down the freeway going 85mph and some dumb a s s pulls in front of you from 3 lanes over going 35mph. This stuff happends and if your going to go fast you better beable to stop on a dime if needed to save your investment. The last thing i need is to crash into an uninsured motorist and ruin the 10 grand i put into my engine bay...That would be the day!

 

[ECU5.0]

yeah, like qdrhorse said. if you arent having problems with the stock calipers and wheel cylinders dont mess with them, but there is a chance that the ones you buy to replace will have a defect in them and youll have to go tearing into it. if i were you, id buy some nice pads...performance friction, hawks....and slotted rotors. get some good shoes and get some stainless steel braided brake lines.

 

[jrichker]

See http://www.svo73mm.cjb.net/ for budget brake upgrades. Excellent site that will help you get the best stop for your dollar.

I have a 94 Mustang GT master cylinder, 91 Lincoln MK Vll front calipers & Turbo Coupe rear axle with disks. The brakes are much better than stock.

The Mark VII front calipers & 94 Mustang GT master cylinder is not expensive and an excellent upgrade to stock brakes. The cost is less than $175 with new pads, reman calipers & master cylinder with reservoir. You could probably get it for less with a little careful shopping.

 

[Maryland Stang]

I have heard a lot of good things about Power Slot rotors. A lot of companies will slot and drill rotors and let them go at that. Power Slot rotors are slotted but the slots are chamfered so that cracks won't develop. As far as the rest of the brake system goes I recommend the Maximum Motorsports package for stock Mustang brakes. You get new Hawk brake pads, stainless steel caliper sleeves, MM rear brake shoes and MM stainless steel brake lines all for under $250. Combine the MM package with the Power Slot rotors and you will have a 5.0 that stops the way it should have from the factory.

http://www.maximummotorsports.com/mmbp.asp

 

[cleanLX]

I rebuilt mine a while back.
I went with Raybestos Brute Stop rotors(very beefy, slotted and drilled, made in Canada) and pads, ford #3 fluid, and super stop shoes.
I could not be happier.

 

[svasica]

I think that kit from MM with the Hawk pads and all looks pretty good. Wheres the best place to get the power slot rotors?

 

[5.0 HOtrain]

One of the biggest things with the stock stuff is the lines. Buy some ss front lines to replace the rubber ones. I run some cheapo powerstop cross drilled rotors with good pads and ss lines, works well and was cheap. I would love to upgrade the brakes, and that is on the list after the cage, but for the last 15k, this setup has worked well. As for how it will work with the 418 .

Mike.