Cobra Intake vs Stock
- Thread starter Ryan91Saleen
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ECU5.0
Banned
yeah, my 70mm fit perfectly on my cobra intake...dont know how much it helped because i put 1.7 rockers on at the same time. but i could definetly feel a much stronger pull at high rpms
Maryland Stang
Active Member
The weakness in the stock intake is the lower. The upper flows just fine the way it is. You could get a TMoss lower and come out ahead in the game over the Cobra. There are charts somewhere that show the TMoss lower/stock upper outflowing the Cobra.
Michael Yount
Mustang Master
Send a pm to tmoss - he can tell you his flow numbers for a stock ported lower/stock upper compared to the Cobra upper. I don't think his flows quite as well as the stock Cobra, but his will be MUCH less expensive, and either will make a noticeable difference. The stock lower intake is the biggest bottleneck to flow in the stock engine.
Michael Yount
Mustang Master
Ask Tom about the throttle body too - I believe the stock throttle body is capable of keeping up with the stock heads. Said another way, unless you change/port the heads, there's not much to gain by changing the throttle body.
I think a cobra intake would add maybe 10 rwhp at the most.I have read countless threads that said the cobra intake is a waste of time.They say there is no noticable gain in power.Mustang's all pull hard at the higher rpm's and if you are really paying attention you might just think it is faster cause you want it to be.Getting 20 rwhp is not as easy as you would think.
On stock heads, TB, EGR with a stock cam, the Cobra may make a couple more HP than a properly ported lower on a stock upper, but the Cobra is the better intake - it just costs a lot more. Also, it can grow to flow up to 250cfm and the stock intake is done at an economical outlay in the 180-190cfm range. The Cobra stock flows 205-210cfm. The heads will determine what intake is most suitable. I've had a BUNCH of customers that don't go beyond E7 heads (stock or ported) or GT40, GT40P heads which a ported stock intake work very well on and produce a very healthy torque curve.
I just dynoed today with my new combo. I hit right at the HP I thought (257HP SAE) but my torque curve is extremely good. I averaged 284RWTQ across the whole 2,000-5,600 rpm power band. I care more about torque than HP for a street car and if you have experienced 275ft-lbs at 2,000 rpm you know what I mean. I was ALL smiles.
I just dynoed today with my new combo. I hit right at the HP I thought (257HP SAE) but my torque curve is extremely good. I averaged 284RWTQ across the whole 2,000-5,600 rpm power band. I care more about torque than HP for a street car and if you have experienced 275ft-lbs at 2,000 rpm you know what I mean. I was ALL smiles.
Michael Yount
Mustang Master
bmorrisj
Member
Hitting 290RWTQ peak is good, but take the average over your rpm power band for the whole picture.
Michael Yount
Mustang Master
Morris - the mistake nearly everyone makes is actually taking their dyno numbers seriously. The dyno is only useful for making back to back changes during the same strap-down under similar ambient conditions. There are simply too many variables between conditions, operation, programming, etc. for anyone to conclude that the numbers produced are actually accurate. So, they're good for measuring comparative changes during the same strap-down session; they're pretty good for noting where your peaks occur rpm-wise; but they're nearly useless for concluding anything absolute about the measurements. A few psi difference in rear tire pressure (which can occur from one run to the next due to heat buildup), and tightening a strap one click can alter readings as much as 10-15 HP. Drive your car to another dyno, even of the same type, and the numbers could be significantly different.
bmorrisj
Member
ahhh i see, it was my first time with my car on a dyno.... just for a baseline to see where im starting, and what kind of improvements i make....
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