Check engine light, stang runs like crap......

Gr0und_Fault

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May 26, 2004
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Today at work during lunch, my stang ran fine. I parked my car, went in to get a bit to eat, and came back out to go back to work, and my car wouldn't start. I checked all of the fuses under the hood, and under the dash, and the only one that was blown was fuse 18, for the EEC pwr. I put in a new fuse, and the car did start back up, but it ran like crap. The check engine light came on, and it was never on before. Also, as I drove my car back to work, the rpms kept jumping up and down. I also had to keep reving the engine to prevent from stalling while at a light. I am trying to figure out how to check the EEC, but I don't know how. Any advice would be helpful. Thanks in advance.


95' V6 3.8
No mods as of yet, other than the audio system.( I just got the car)
 
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just checking your sig........you may have overloaded something by tapping into the wrong power source with your stereo. Hopefully you dont fry your EEC.

Like he said.....go to autozone, they'll run a diagnostic check free and then you can go from there.
 
try reving the car really hard, it might just fix it, my car did something like that one time, while i was driving, so i gave it some gas in drive then in neutral reved hard, light went off and it was fixed, do i know why, of course not. try this
 
As for the audio system I installed, I do have 3 amps running in the car, but the power source was tapped straight from the battery, and I've never wired a system wrong before and I double and triple checked the wiring for any shorts, and since then, I disconnected all of the fuses to the system. As for the advice from 03mustang, I'll try that tomarrow, my stang is still stuck at work. I went up to Murrays auto parts store during lunch today and got the chiltons manual and the OBD2 diagnostic tester from them. I ran the diagnostic tester, and the only fault that came up was "P1353 - Manufacturer Contrl. Ignition System or Misfire". I checked in the Chiltons manual to see if there was any more information, but there was none. I checked the primary resistance values on the ignition coil, and those were fine(about .1 over on 2 of the coils, but I assume that should be fine.) and the resistances on the wires, which also seemed fine. I am guessing the spark plugs, but I don't really know how to test them.
 
Oh yeah, also, it really does seem to be misfiring. I let the car rev for a minute with my foot gently on the gas pedal, and I could smell gas comming out of the exhaust. Just alittle bit more information for any one that could help. I would just go out and buy new plugs, wires, ignition coil...etc, but I'm a little low on cash right now.
 
i know my mustang did the same where if u didnt give it gas the rpms would just drop all the way down and the car would die..turns out..the intake tube had came off of the throttle body a lil and it was sucking up to much air, i donno if thast ur problem but thats what made mine stall out
 
Thanks for the info, I will check that out tomarrow as well, but I'm pretty sure that's not my problem, seeing as how I got an ignition error/misfire code when I ran diagnostics. I appreciate the info though! I really want to get my Mustang back on the road for this weekend!!!
 
03mustang281GT said:
try reving the car really hard, it might just fix it, my car did something like that one time, while i was driving, so i gave it some gas in drive then in neutral reved hard, light went off and it was fixed, do i know why, of course not. try this

Yeah, I tried that earlier today, nothing changed. Thanks for the advice though!
 
been to autozone yet? stop guessing and go find out the facts of what code is being triped lol it sound liek a miss fire but it might be a plug wire, plug, coil pack, who knows. you can probably even trace it but the cel check will tell you which cylinder is not firing
 
SpectorV said:
been to autozone yet? stop guessing and go find out the facts of what code is being triped lol it sound liek a miss fire but it might be a plug wire, plug, coil pack, who knows. you can probably even trace it but the cel check will tell you which cylinder is not firing


Won't Autozone just run the same test that I already ran on my car with the OBD2 scan tool?
 
Same Problem again......sucks...... I got a new ignition coil in, and new plugs, and still having the same problem. And fuse 18 still keeps blowing. Fuse 18 says it's for CCRM power, ignition coil, charging system warning lamp, and regulator signal. Well, at least that's what the chiltons manual says. In the owners manual I believe it says it's for the EEC like stated above......
 
I am attaching a scanned file from my Chiltons manual for the ignition coil wiring. I have high-lighted the wires comming off of the coil. The one in red is going to fuse #18 in the fuse panel inside the vehicle. The wires in yellow are comming off the coil going to the ICM (ignition control module) and the ones in blue are comming from the coil and going to the spark plugs. The #18 fuse inside the vehicle keeps blowing, and it's just going straight to the ignition coil. I'm guessing there may be a short somehow in the wiring from the coil to the fuse panel. I'm looking for any more advice thought because I don't want to rip my dash apart unless it's really needed to verify if the wiring is good or not. If nobody can view the attachment that well, I can rescan and resize the pic if needed.
 

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