I have a 280 comp cam, holley 4 barrel carb I think its 600 cfm I forget the numbers on it, hooker headers, flowmaster 2 1/2 all the way out. 289 heads, 302 block. I have a 289 performer intake, will this be ok or do I need something else?
What intake do I need?
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LMan
Founding Member
You dont specify your transmission, rear gears, or intended use of the vehicle, but given the fact your car is mostly stock I think you are fine where you are.
You can use the 289 performer intake if you want. I would personally up it to a weiand stealth or a performer RPM. I have an RPM intake for sale if you are interested..PM ME
SoCalCruising
Founding Member
If you're heads are stock 289s, then I'd leave it alone. If they have been ported, a Stealth or RPM could be helpful.
ratio411
Founding Member
That is too much cam for a Performer, even with stock heads!
Stealth or mild single plane like Weiand X-Cellerator is the way to go.
It's good you have an o/d manual. The steep first gear and o/d fifth leave options open for a wide range of gears to work well with your combo.
Good luck
Dave
Stealth or mild single plane like Weiand X-Cellerator is the way to go.
It's good you have an o/d manual. The steep first gear and o/d fifth leave options open for a wide range of gears to work well with your combo.
Good luck
Dave
Just where do you get the idea that a Comp Cams 280H won't work with stock heads? If you continue to believe that fantasy, then I've got a bridge to sell youMax Power said:
While it's true that better heads would net you a larger increase in performance with that cam, you WILL see a gain in performance EVEN with stock heads with the 280H. Not everybody can afford better heads along with all the other improvements you may deem neccessary, but most CAN afford improvements to their engines that a better cam, intake, carb, headers, etc can bring. I've run the 280H in a couple of motors, and both had stock heads, and BOTH had vastly improved performance with it. 
Damn, I'm glad you've now told everybody that I had a cam I didn't NEED I'll have to go back and pull the cam and go back to the stock one. 
Your question shouldn't be , "is this something I NEED", but rather "is this something I WANT" ,when pondering the effectiveness of the Performer intake you have now. In my opinion, the Performer's only advantage over the original cast iron stck 4 bbl small block intake, is it's construction----- aluminum. Otherwise it's really just a carbon copy of the iron one. If you want a better intake, then go for a Performer RPM, or better yet ( in my opinion) the older Edelbrock F4B, Fords old C9OX, newer A321, or the Cobra high rise. These intakes have been on the market for longer ( ecepting the RPM) than many StangNet members have been on this earth. They DO work well with stock heads, and big cams. This has been a known fact for 30 or more years now.steel1212 said:
Here's my setup in a '65 convert that I brought back from the dead (it was a 6 cyl/automatic): built 302 (Summit's version of the Performer cam 'cause I don't like lope), with heads I ported in the garage with 351 valves. On top a Performer RPM/Performer 600 carb, Hipo exhaust manifolds and a bunch of other stuff. An 11" diaphram clutch, a T5 I got out of a then new '93 GT with a 3.35 first gear, a 3:40 tractionlock rear. Electronic ignition and Flowmasers basically round it out. Outside of being lowered a little, it looks pretty much stock. That thing leaps when I get on it. Tractionloc was mandatory or it would break loose every time I'd take off. I use Mobil 1 oil and have 150K miles on it. It still breaks the rears loose in each gear if I want it to. Suspension wise, I had a bunch of '65 Falcon parts which bolted right in to complete the conversion. I also put in GT rated sprints and adjustable spring steel antisway bars so it turns real flat and tight.
Sure a 280 will "work" with stock heads, you just wont realize most the benefits of it until you perform other mods. I have run 'em too, so I am not talking out of my a$$. A 268 is a better choice for stock heads and manifolds.
Pull your cam out if you want. I dont care.
Pull your cam out if you want. I dont care.
Easy, boys no need for a fight. The reason behind the 280 cam is I bought the whole kit for it and thought it would be a good idea to have more cam and not be able to use ALL of it now and if I want to add better heads later I'll already have the cam for. My engine is broke down right now during the rebuild and I figured now would be a good time to replace cam,lifters,springs and all that with it broke down.
D.Hearne said:Just where do you get the idea that a Comp Cams 280H won't work with stock heads? If you continue to believe that fantasy, then I've got a bridge to sell you
Not to take the wind out of your sails but it is common knowledge that the stock cam on 85 and up 5.0's is a capable cam and is good up to a respectable amount of hp. I think that is buddies point.......ther are other things that could be done before the cam swap that would net you better gains......then you would see more from the new cam.......just like in other combos. You will see alot more if your car had the more common add ons then a cam that is all. Cam swaps are labour intensive and technical for your average car owner and alot of people would rather put ther money into more easier bolt ons to see easier and better performance gains than paying asronomical shop labour rates. If you are doing the work yourself that is a different story......but the point remains there are better , easier more practical and affordable upgrades than a cam swap on a 5 litre. The stock cam is quite good. I would do mine a long with a timing chain and head swap just because it is more practical to me.
more...
Its getting a new timing chain as well as part of the cam kit. Its a 79 302 block so its not 85and up. I know there are bolt ons to help it but I'm doing the work myself with a very knowledgeable friend (chevy guy
) and the motor is broke down right now so pulling the cam isn't going to be a big deal anyway.
Also I forgot to mention that the heads are bored .060 over as well.
I didn't know this was going to be such a big deal. All I wanted to know was what intake would be best and I think I've answered that myself.
Thanks anyways guys.
Its getting a new timing chain as well as part of the cam kit. Its a 79 302 block so its not 85and up. I know there are bolt ons to help it but I'm doing the work myself with a very knowledgeable friend (chevy guy
) and the motor is broke down right now so pulling the cam isn't going to be a big deal anyway. Also I forgot to mention that the heads are bored .060 over as well.
I didn't know this was going to be such a big deal. All I wanted to know was what intake would be best and I think I've answered that myself.
Thanks anyways guys.
steel1212 said:
I can't say this is true from personal experiance, but I've heard .060 over 289's are getting thin in the cylinder walls. You may want to save a few bucks to upgrade the cooling system.
Anyone else with thoughts on this?
302 coupe
Founding Member
.060 over heads At any rate, the cam may be a little big, but it will still run good on the street and will completely take advantage of the factory heads. Its easier to swap out heads with the engine in the car than it is to swap cams. Sounds like a logical decision to me, cam should pull good from 2500-4500 rpm, the heads will be maxed at 4500 or so. A good rear gear would be in the 3.70 range and up. Have fun!
At any rate, the cam may be a little big, but it will still run good on the street and will completely take advantage of the factory heads. Its easier to swap out heads with the engine in the car than it is to swap cams. Sounds like a logical decision to me, cam should pull good from 2500-4500 rpm, the heads will be maxed at 4500 or so. A good rear gear would be in the 3.70 range and up. Have fun!
SoCalCruising
Founding Member
If you are going to upgrade heads down the road, I'd opt for the perormer RPM or Stealth intake, I suggested that the Performer would be fine with the stock heads (not knowing you were planning on the upgrade) because it would help low-end torque and driveability on the street. Your heads aren't much good past 5000-5500 RPM and that matches the intake. To use a bigger intake will cause you to lose low end power, most likely. Once you upgrade the heads, you'll be fine.
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