Power to Manual Conversion

gt8977c

New Member
May 27, 2004
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I have had my V8 65 coupe for over 20 years. In that time I have
rebuilt the PS control valve at least 3 times, the PS cylinder twice and
replaces cracked hoses more than once. I give up.

This car was my daily drive for 18 of those 20+ years. So it has earned its
complete overhaul.

What components are necessary to convert to manual steering.
I would like to keep my PS steering box (16:1) if that would not
result in overly difficult turning force.

Obviously I need a center link, but what is the story the pitman arm, ideler and tie rods? :shrug: :

I know there are different part numbers of the drivers side tie rods for MS and PS. I am planning on replacing all the tierod ends so I don't mind making the change.

My real interest is in the pitman arm and the ideler.

Do you have to change them when convering to MS. What about the longer
Shelby version of the pitman and ideler, is that a worthwhile upgrade?

Thanks
 
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I have a 65 coupe that used to have power steering, but someone has put the manual in it. I will swap the linkage and stuff with you if you are interested. I would like to put the power back in this.
 
crushnut said:
All i did was convert my control vavle to a solid unit, it wasnt that hard and the best part it was free :D

How did you do this? I know there are PS to MS conversions for 67+ cars that
just replace the valve with a threaded on stud.

But for a 65 the ball strut and valve are sort of built into the center link.
Did you modify the valve some way to fix the ball stud?
 
Toby

Thanks for the offer, but I seriously doubt you want my PS system.

Years ago, when I was even dumber than I am now I tried to remove the ball
stud from the pitman arm with a pickle fork. The result being that I pulled
the ball straight through the retaining sleeve and left it hooked to the pitman.
Big mistake. I managed to beat the collar on the center link back close to cylidrical and replaced the brass sleeve. It has held together, but the sleeve
is too loose in the center link and I get a lot of slop from that.

Then there was the guy at the alignment shop who turned the tie rod adjustment sleeves so that the clamp nuts faced the rear. A short time later
I lost all the power in my power steering. The clamp nuts on the adjusting sleeve had worn a hole straight through the body of the valve.

Do not ask how this is possible, I still cannot figure out how it happened.

Since I am in Atlanta I took the valve to Mustangs Unlimited to try and get a new one. They looked at it and kind of laughed. Apparently the hole in the side disqualified it from the "re-buildable" core classification.

I silver soldered the hole over and filled the groove with soft solder. It has been that way for about 6 years now. The valve doesn't leak out the hole in the side, but that seems to be the only opening that doesent drip fluid on a regular basis.

I don't mind risking my own life to these repairs, but I could never in good
consience let someone else use these parts. Once they come off they are going on the garage wall as a reminder of past stupidity.
 
gt8977c said:
How did you do this? I know there are PS to MS conversions for 67+ cars that
just replace the valve with a threaded on stud.

But for a 65 the ball strut and valve are sort of built into the center link.
Did you modify the valve some way to fix the ball stud?


I completely tore apart the control valve and gutted it, then measured the space on each side of the ball stud needed to center the stud where it is suppose to be, cut and installed some solid stock round bar on each end to make it a solid mount peice. Then bolt a plate to the open end to hold it all in, and thats it.