Oil in the 03/04's

[westernstar11]

I've been doing quite a bit of reading here and also on svtperformance.com about oil and the like. I am looking forward to you regular posters opinions...

My 03 is only taken out of the garage in nice weather. Last year I only put on 3000 miles, and when I took it off the blocks this spring, I took it to the dealer for the inspection and service/oil change and let them do their thing. Now I am ready to change the oil for the 2nd time (the trip from PA to NC helped the next 3000 miles come a lot quicker this time!).

I've decided to do it myself... frankly because of so much that has been written here. I also noticed that my service papers stated the car as a "Mustang" vs. a "Cobra", so who's to say that it's a "SVT certified mechanic" working on it vs. the high school OJT kid. I only want the best for my car (obviously everyone does, but I am willing to go one step farther).

So the big question is "What oil?"
Is it worth going to full synthetic if I'm still going to change it every 3000?
Is the oil that Ford puts in it a synthetic blend or regular?
When you all talk about "dino" oil are you referring to regular (mineral) oil?

I am so confused!!! The ex used to take care of all this stuff! (guess that means men are worth something )

I've seen a lot of people recommend Royal Purple, but it seems that the majority are using Mobil 1. Is there a "break in period" for switching to sythetic? I always thought that using synthetic was a good thing, but after reading here, I am left wondering which is the best way to go.

I'm sorry for sounding like a dummy and asking so many silly questions all the time, but everyone here has been such a big help!

 

[GrayCobra]

Royal Purple

 

[rdefino]

WHY?

 

[COBRA90GT]

...So the big question is

1- "What oil?"
2- Is it worth going to full synthetic if I'm still going to change it every 3000?
3- Is the oil that Ford puts in it a synthetic blend or regular?
4- When you all talk about "dino" oil are you referring to regular (mineral) oil?

...

1 - Most of the oils out there today will "get the job done" IMHO. Many choose a full synthetic (Mobil 1, Amsoil, Redline, Royal Purple, etc, etc) because of the low cost, added protection, and resistance to breaking down.
Full synth will also "last longer," meaning that you can extend the time in between oil changes if you wish to do so. Pick one and enjoy!
*Make sure to use a good oil filter (NOT FRAM!!!) as well. Motorcraft FL-820S oil filters don't cost much & they perform just fine.

2 - Yes, running a full synth oil is OK to do even if you change your oil on a regular basis. Remember, you cannot hurt your engine by changing the oil too often (although it may not be very economical for someone with a tight budget LOL). In the past, people have posted pics or commented that their internals looked clean after tearing apart their engine while exclusively running a full synthetic oil.

3 - If you take it to the dealership, they'll most likely use regular grade oil. However, some may offer the synth blends or full synths.

4 - Yes, "dino oil" is just a nickname for regular/mineral oil.

 

[woomaster]

Make sure to use a good oil filter (NOT FRAM!!!)

Finally another FRAM hater. I had one blow out the gasket on me and spew oil everywhere...I'll never use them again. I use OEM filters now, aftermarket filters do filter out more particles but they also restrict oil flow.

Full synth all the way dude. Spend the extra money, your motor will love you better. We use it in jet engines where the internal temps exceed 1000° and doesn't break down.

 

[Shalenboy]

You guy's are scarin me. I just changed my oil and used a Fram filter! I am sure it will be fine, but thanx to this thread it will be nothing but OEM from here on out.

 

[Uncle Meat]

Stay away from Fram filters. They are inferior in design...

The only other warning would be to stay away from that purple snake oil (Royal Purple). It has a lot of sulfer in it from what I read.

If you want to read some good material on oil do a search over on SVTPerformance.com or right here on Stangnet for a user named "Cobra'03". He is a tribologist and knows his stuff! His posts are mandatory reading...

U.M.

 

[GrayCobra]

Stay away from Fram filters. They are inferior in design...

The only other warning would be to stay away from that purple snake oil (Royal Purple). It has a lot of sulfer in it from what I read.

If you want to read some good material on oil do a search over on SVTPerformance.com or right here on Stangnet for a user named "Cobra'03". He is a tribologist and knows his stuff! His posts are mandatory reading...

U.M.

Hey UM, welcome back!

I just read the extensive '03 Cobra Terminator FAQ and the author several synth oils. It was Slick 50 he picked on. IMHO even the partial Synth Oils are superior to regular grade oil. The Redline's Amsoil's and Royal Purple's cost more for a reason.

2.2.13.1 Engine Oil
Based on Cobra’03’s extensive research on this subject, here are the suggested lubricants:
”Amsoil 0w30 Series 2000, Amsoil 5w30, NEO, Motul Ester 300, and Red Line 5w30 or 5w20 (it's lubricating qualities make it a safer bet than a mineral 5w20 for the Nervous Nancy’s out there). Lesser but still high quality are Mobil 1, Valvoline, Pennzoil synoils. I do not think much of Syntec or Castrol domestically - their Euro-spec oils are very good. In mineral oils, Pennzoil PZL Turbo 10w30 is a great lube, but I believe it is either on the verge of or has been discontinued. If you drive your car on nice days, and never at temps much below 20 degrees F, 10w30 spec oils, esp. synoils, have even greater shear stability than 5w30. If you are at the borderline of sunny day only use, go for the 5w to be on the safe side.”
Note that there is no harm in using synthetic oil in the Cobra, despite what SVT says on the subject. See the following post for more information on this subject: http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=14856
Next, no “snake oil” products, such as Slick 50, Prolong, etc., should be used in the Cobra. For information as to why, please see the following post: http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=19386
Finally, the following post will be helpful in understanding the additives in engine oil: http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=19526

 

[Uncle Meat]

Hey UM, welcome back!

I just read the extensive '03 Cobra Terminator FAQ and the author several synth oils. It was Slick 50 he picked on. IMHO even the partial Synth Oils are superior to regular grade oil. The Redline's Amsoil's and Royal Purple's cost more for a reason.

Yeah the author doesn't single out RP by name like he did Slick 50 or Prolong but.... If you read the majority of the independent oil studies you'll see that RP is never tested against the other major brands (Amsoil/Mobil 1/Redline/etc.). The only tests you'll find are the ones that RP contracts on their own. I know RP meets or exceeds all manufactures standards for engine lubrication and all....

I guess it's a personal choice.

U.M.

 

[az_r2d1]

You guy's are scarin me. I just changed my oil and used a Fram filter! I am sure it will be fine, but thanx to this thread it will be nothing but OEM from here on out.

Never again will I buy a FRAM filter. I used one on my 95GT and I got cold start knocking in the engine because all the oil drained back. Never had it before I used the FRAM and it went away after I got rid of the FRAM and used motorcraft or purolator filters.

Buy motorcraft, it's cheap and works WELL.