Ported heads, new cam profile???

tama said:
compression on these years engines aren't really ideal for boost. Had 2 friends so far with blown motors on this year engine from running blowers. Each of them throw rods or something only 8,000 of having the blower.

I would need to reforged the internals and have the compression lowered to 8:5 for safe blower use. And that equals more $$$$$ than I have.

:scratch: man is this mind boggoling.

first part = disgusting!

Second part: I'm not a big fan of just bolting on a blower either. I've seen too many blow up as well. That's why i went the NA build. And actually i'm very very happy with it. If you ever want details, send me a PM. And yes, this whole mod business is very expensive, and i'm not sure its worth it to everyone.

PS: Addict is easily scared off... :D
 
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tama said:
lafear01, I'm am very interested in changing the cams, could you give some recommendations as to what brands I should look for and what durations :)

I'd be happy to, but first you gotta tell me what your looking for from a cam(and in detail). Everything from where you want the power to drivability concerns (what do ya plan on using the car for). then i'll give you some suggestions tomorrow. talk to ya then.

also, brent32v is an excellent resource as well...
 
Well, to start with the car, it is not the daily driver, it will see the street on the weekends and I don't plan on every taking it out on long road trips unless to the track which is only about 50 miles from where I live.

I just recieved the new gears today and I'm waiting on an order for new tires to help hook when I go back to the track this fall. So if I lost a little low end torque It might not be the end of the world, but I guess solid gains across the chart would be nice while droping a few tenths.

I don't like the idea of losing power until 5000rpm. Hoping to hit at least mid 12 n/a would really make me happy though I know I need to see where I'm at now to know how far I need to go.

I've ran the 1/4 mile 2 years ago all stock at 14.1. I've never had the time/or made the time to go back out there after mods. So before I do any engine work I'm going to install the new gears and get some practice out their to see what I can do now. Hope that helps :D
 
If you want to pass smog, get the cams Al Pappito (boss330) recommends for people who want a strong powerband and want to pass smog. They are some crane N/A cams, with 209 [email protected], and .450 lift. You wont have to replace springs. The 99-01 factory cams have about 10 degrees more duration on the intake, than the 96-98 counterparts. This is probably a big reason why the 99-01 cobras seem to respond better to mods and tend to make more power. The stronger power down low is because of the velocity of those heads. Those crane cams have about 10 degrees more duration than the 99-01's, so you would be looking at about 20 degrees more duration than your stock cams, which would probably be worth about 25-30 more rwhp potential with just bolt ons. Try cams first, and then if you want more, have a light port done with a nice valve job and a 2 angle backcut on the valves.
 
tama said:
Well, to start with the car, it is not the daily driver, it will see the street on the weekends and I don't plan on every taking it out on long road trips unless to the track which is only about 50 miles from where I live.

I just recieved the new gears today and I'm waiting on an order for new tires to help hook when I go back to the track this fall. So if I lost a little low end torque It might not be the end of the world, but I guess solid gains across the chart would be nice while droping a few tenths.

I don't like the idea of losing power until 5000rpm. Hoping to hit at least mid 12 n/a would really make me happy though I know I need to see where I'm at now to know how far I need to go.

I've ran the 1/4 mile 2 years ago all stock at 14.1. I've never had the time/or made the time to go back out there after mods. So before I do any engine work I'm going to install the new gears and get some practice out their to see what I can do now. Hope that helps :D

Well. If i understand your response correctly, I would say your looking for a cam that provides midrange to high end punch. If your going steep gears, the low end loss will NOT be a big issue. Below are some CAMS that I was originally interested in. (and dont believe their power claims)

CAMSHAFT PROJECT:
STOCK 01 CAM SPECS:
INTAKE: 186 duration / 392 lift (at .050)
EXHAUST: 194 duration / 390 lift (at .050)
FR500 cams
Intake .472 lift 214@ .050
Exhaust .472 lift 204@ .050


Crower 4V billet replacement CAMS:
STAGE 1 .050 (power: claims 50rwhp ) $1200
Intake Duration Lift
192 421
Exhaust 204 430

STAGE 2 .050 (power: claims 70rwhp ) $1200
Intake 210 472
Exhaust 216 473

Jerry (at Crower) # 62821 page 55 of cam-sheet

Crower 4V billet replacement CAMS (JDM-specific grind)
Duration lift
Intake 208 .450 lobe separation/centerline 114 degrees
Exhaust 214 .450 cams & springs = $1195.00
Anthony/Jim/Justin: 732-780-0770

ModMax 370-25200I
4.6 & 5.4 DOHC N/A Mild Street Strip
Duration @ .003" 265 degrees
Duration @ .050" 205 degrees
Centerline: 110
Lift @ Valve: .460"

ModMax 370-25200E
4.6 & 5.4 DOHC N/A Mild Street Strip
Duration @ .003" 264 degrees
Duration @ .050" 205 degrees
Centerline: 108
Lift @ Valve: .475"

If you want to go a little more aggressive, Hensler has a custom grind CAM that helped to produce 380+ rwhp on a big bore NA engine (and that was before breakin). Below is an attachment to my webpage that has my build specs and there is a link to hensler racing near the bottom. Talk to James. He can give you his suggestions & he knows what he's talking about.

BLACKSNAKE305

good luck
 
Im pretty sure those stock cam specs you gave are for 96-98 cobras. The 99-01's have something like 196@ .050, according to Al Pappito and a few others.
Im starting to lose my marbles trying to choose cams.