help 302 cracked block

shttygtstang

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Jun 2, 2004
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well i spent abought 5 grand this month on my stang and now to come and find out theres three or four hair line cracks on my block here my heads bolt up.So im think mise well put a 351 in will my ecu sc heads cam and intake all bolt up if not ill just get a 302
 
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ok intake wont that out of the question.time for a stroker i guess . a stroker goes father down in the cylinder wall not higher up correct. how are keth black kits? should i buy a block and buy all the stuff my self or a pre built block some one shoot some ideas this way.
 
correct.

kb makes only hyperutectic stuff and i thought you had a blower so not a good idea.
there are spacers out there so you can adapt 302 intake to a 351.

i would just find a running motor and redo it with a good quality internal kit like keith craft sells.
 
never an 8 done my eclipse and my gsxr(that goes 8.4 sec) thats nothing speical for a bike though .but i have my father up from tampa who worked at ford dealer for 20 years ..truth be told hes no performance man just a service guy he said he never done a stroker but hes very handy to have around
 
Sorry to hear about your troubles man, Id also like to add that strokers arent all that. Sure they are powerful and fast. Show me a stroker that doesnt go through a buttload of oil! The reason? Messed up rod/piston angles during thier travel cause the pistons to move side to side. This in turn causes oval shaped cylinder walls ='s loss of compression and oil - no thanks
 
There are a number of fitment issues with a 351 instead of a 302. The deck height on a 351W is 9.5" - the 302 is only 8.2". While your heads will bolt on a 351W, because of the extra deck height, the width between them is different requiring a wider lower intake manifold - it's 351 specific. Also because the heads will sit higher and wider on a 351, 351 specific headers will be required. And, you'll need a different hood because with the taller engine there's not enough hood clearance unless you are very selective with your intake, and drop the engine lower in the chassis with different mounts. The common displacements of stroked 351's are 393 and 408.

A properly machined/built stroker will work just fine - the rod/stroke ratio's aren't any worse on a 347 than they are on many big block Chevies. Just be sure you get pistons that don't have the rings intersecting the wrist pin. It may be possible to bore larger than .030" on a 5.0L block, but not without checking the cylinder wall thickness first. THe blocks are known to have some core shift resulting in some finished cyl. walls being thinner than others. The common rule of thumb to be safe is not to go any bigger than 4.030" on the bore. Stock is 4"X3" = 302. 30 over stock is 306 cubes. 327 cubes is 4.000"X3.25". 332 is 4.030" X 3.25". 342 is 4.000"X3.4". 347 is 4.030" X 3.4". Those are the most common combinations for strokers.

Given that this is your first one, and that you want to run boost, I think you'd be better off just buying a 302 short block. And, as long as you've got to do that - get forged dished pistons that will lower your compression ratio so you can run the higher boost levels you'd like to without that thicker head gasket. Please.
 
MadMatt5oh said:
Sorry to hear about your troubles man, Id also like to add that strokers arent all that. Sure they are powerful and fast. Show me a stroker that doesnt go through a buttload of oil! The reason? Messed up rod/piston angles during thier travel cause the pistons to move side to side. This in turn causes oval shaped cylinder walls ='s loss of compression and oil - no thanks


Matt, How many do you want to see? I've done over 4 the last year, 2 new ones in prgoress, none go through oil. The oil consumption issues are all internet hype, maybe 6 years ago when most kits had pins that intersected the oil ring (hell some still do), but most guys have moved the pin below the oil ring. Your info is wrong.....

shttygtstang The 351W swap can get expensive in a hurry and adds another thing to worry about. I'd also suggest a 302 based motor, stroker if you can afford it and are going to buy internals. A good name brand SCAT cast kit (9000 series crank, Probe SRS pistons, I beams, rings and bearings) which will out live a stock block will run around $1100, forged kits will run a few hundred more. Machine work on a good 302 block will run around $400-$500 including balancing the rotating assembly.

Check your PM, I have some other info/questions for you...
 
ya my fooundation cracked so now im sending my house to the prjets for all the little ghetto kids to live in it .ok whats the differnce between the 308 and the 347 wich will be better for me . the 308 is just an over bored 302 but not stroked correct
 
A 308 is just a .040 over 302, stock rods and stock crank(which in my opinion is as far as you want to take a stock 302 block)

347 is a .030 overbore 302, 3.4" stroker crank, usually a 5.4" rod and a 1.100" CH piston

Did you check your PM?