Should i take my car to the dealership

[beemrmem3]

I can not find he problem to my code 212. I dont want to just start replacing random ignition stuff in hopes that it will fix it. How much do you think they will charge.

Also, will they say anything about my o/r h-pipe?

 

[94Five0]

no, not unless you know people at the dealership. whats it doing? is it more prominent on warmup? hardstarting? kills? chances are someone here can tell you where to look, jus need some more info.

not if its a 5.0. they're 14 yrs old so no warrantee as far as engine stuff should even be issued.

 

[HISSIN50]

what is code 212? something with the spout or tach?
tell us and we will help (maybe not me, but the smart folks in here will)
does that code suggest the TFI module? when TFI's are on the outs, people get a miss or lack of power at higher RPM's, which can be worse when the motor is hot. just info, as i dont even know if that is what that code is for.

i would not go to the dealer unless i was rich and stupid (well, all im missing is the former).
good luck.

 

[Quick5pnt0]

I think its a spout code. This may be a stupid question, but have you checked to see if the spout is still plugged in? Then again i'm not sure that would set a code off anyway.

 

[Quick5pnt0]

212 (M) Ignition TACH signal was erratic (module/wiring) or SPOUT circuit fault -

 

[chrismillion]

if i knew how to work this darn file sending thingy, i would sent you the info!

 

[HISSIN50]

im not positive, but i think the code for the spout (the actual connector/connection) being out/messed up is 213.

 

[mo_dingo]

im not positive, but i think the code for the spout (the actual connector/connection) being out/messed up is 213.

You are right. If his spout was disconnected, then he would get a code 213.

You are having a ignition timing problem. Here is where to look.

Follow the instructions on how to check your timing. But you need to make marks for 15, 20, 25, 30. But colored marks, that is.

Hook up a timing light, leave the spout CONNECTED, and check the timing during KOER. The haynes manual talks about this in the trouble codes section.

If the computer is unable to advance the timing, this would cause engine problems. If it can't advance the timing, I am leaning towards the ignition module.

My guess is your Ignition Module is busted, but you need to verify this first. I think Autozone can test it to see if it's bad. Call them and ask. There may be a way to test it yourself; If so the haynes manual will tell you how.
Scott

 

[beemrmem3]

Well sorry i didnt reply guys. I thought no one gave me a response. Anyways, this thing is turning into a nightmare. I took it to a mechanic my dad knows(i know i sold out). They found a vaccum leak on the intake manifold gasket, replaced that. It still ran like crap. So they replaced the ignition module. Still runs like crap. So they said i needed a new cap and rotor(which i dont think it did, but its cheap) Still runs like crap. So a week later they think the MAF is bad. They said they tested it, and it was bad. So, i just took the car home ordered a pro m 80mm. Still runs like crap........I have no idea what to do now. They told me after they changed the ignition module it stopped giving the 212 code. Maybe my plugs are fouled now???? from driving it around missing for so long? f i dont know. Im not taking it back to a mechanic though. It idles ruff. when i rev it it cuts out at any rpm and the tach is all over the place. Sputtering and missing. I havent changed my fuel filter in awhile. Could that be it???

Im starting to think ill never be able to drive my car again.

Update: I checked the codes again. Still getting a 212 even after ignition module replacement. Im now thinking its the pickup in the distributor or something is grounded.

 

[mo_dingo]

That is exactly what I hate about mechanics. They love to just try stuff. I wonder if you even had a leak on the intake manifold.

Read my post from above, and perform those checks.
Scott