got the mac straight shot, testing soon!!!!
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Defleshed said:
well i can tell it picked me up some, especially mid range. so far i think it was a good purchase. one big thing i did notice though is that it doesn't get as hot as mac's old chrome intake tube. i drove it around for a little bit, then stopped & lifted the hood to feel how hot it was, it was barely warm at all. kinda shocked me. now if i would have done the same thing on my last car that had the old mac intake on, i would have burnt my hand on it. so it seems a bit better in that aspect as well. but i'll wait until i see gains on the dyno before i say that it was a good purchase, since the butt dyno tends to misread on occasion
i was also concidering this strait shot, but dont want the maf to run me too lean. can you let us know if it is making your car run lean. poeple have major problems with the cl mal and they take them off after a while.
also a test between the strait shot with stock maf compaired to aftermarket maf would be very interesting....how much are you gaining with the addition of the mac maf???
also a test between the strait shot with stock maf compaired to aftermarket maf would be very interesting....how much are you gaining with the addition of the mac maf???
When you have dyno test make sure A.F.R. (air fuel ratio) is 11.8 to 12.5 or test will be bogus & dangerous to your motor! If higher AFR have a tech re-program AFR & then you will be pleasantlyc2see21 said:just letting you guys that are curious about the mac straight shot know that i'll be testing it next week
but i will be going to the dyno, prolly on monday or tuesday, to see exactly what difference it made. i will make 3 runs with the stock piece on, then switch it over to the straight shot system & then make 3 more runs. that should get a nice average, & i'll report back to you all & make a post in tech about my findings, so we all know exactly what it does
on a side note, if anyone wants me to do the k&n vs. stock paper again let me know. i'll do a couple runs for that too if there is any interest
surprised.
The reason the Straight Shot is Different
from ALL the others. Mac's Velocity Stack & Entry Angle in the mass air body!
The stock air system on a super flow 1020 bench at 25" H2O was 376 C.F.M.
Straight Shot was 475 C.F.M. at 25"H2O
We're talking a 31% flow increase is available. Plus BIG increase in VELOCITY
which is kinda like a slight ram EFFECT!
Not BAAD!!! Sstock intake sucks AEW says needs better intake to do anymore.
Will post my surprising dyno results next week, getting a new scanner.
Blew me away with the Flow Bench Results! I was at AEW in ontairo,ca seen test on Mac's big mouth & velocity stack.
Tested 4" straight pipe flowed 710 C.F.M. when they added the velocity stack & filter it was 950 C.F.M. plus the velocity went up hey I'm outta room here
When you have dyno test make sure A.F.R. (air fuel ratio) is 11.8 to 12.5 or test will be bogus & dangerous to your motor! If higher AFR have a tech re-program AFR & then you will be pleasantlyc2see21 said:just letting you guys that are curious about the mac straight shot know that i'll be testing it next week
but i will be going to the dyno, prolly on monday or tuesday, to see exactly what difference it made. i will make 3 runs with the stock piece on, then switch it over to the straight shot system & then make 3 more runs. that should get a nice average, & i'll report back to you all & make a post in tech about my findings, so we all know exactly what it does
on a side note, if anyone wants me to do the k&n vs. stock paper again let me know. i'll do a couple runs for that too if there is any interest
surprised.
The reason the Straight Shot is Different
from ALL the others. Mac's Velocity Stack & Entry Angle in the mass air body!
The stock air system on a super flow 1020 bench at 25" H2O was 376 C.F.M.
Straight Shot was 475 C.F.M. at 25"H2O
We're talking a 31% flow increase is available. Plus BIG increase in VELOCITY
which is kinda like a slight ram EFFECT!
Not BAAD!!! Sstock intake sucks AEW says needs better intake to do anymore.
Will post my surprising dyno results next week, getting a new scanner.
Blew me away with the Flow Bench Results! I was at AEW in ontairo,ca seen test on Mac's big mouth & velocity stack.
Tested 4" straight pipe flowed 710 C.F.M. when they added the velocity stack & filter it was 950 C.F.M. plus the velocity went up . 850 C.F.M. with the Cobra 95mm Straight Shot!
My brothers Cobra got 46 HP and 2lbs of boost with that same system the 95mm on Westec's dyno! Another Cobra with a 3" upper pulley, a Accufab TB
and the Straight Shot got over a 100 RWHP ! I'm telling you its WILD !!!
dude you got what 1400 posts??
Whose payin you sniper ??
I wish I worked for MAC. Guys like you just want to talk smack anyways
Sounds like you'll get some real pro dyno's done from what zinc here has to
say for the place. So I'm sure we won't be seeing any AFR #'s or cfm's.
I'm looking at Mac's catalog and I doon't see any HP #'s on the Straight Shots
Whose payin you sniper ??
I wish I worked for MAC. Guys like you just want to talk smack anyways
Sounds like you'll get some real pro dyno's done from what zinc here has to
say for the place. So I'm sure we won't be seeing any AFR #'s or cfm's.
I'm looking at Mac's catalog and I doon't see any HP #'s on the Straight Shots
Redfire03GT
New Member
Wtf, 100rwhp from a 3" pulley, which isnt even that much of a difference, accufab tb, which I'm guessing is the single blade and a straight shot and you're claiming he got that much power?
Sorry but, I just dont see that happening. Sure, the Straight Shot is a better design than their previous attempts but, by no means is it a revolutionary piece that will humble all other CAI's nor will it create such obsurd power gains. If the stock rubber tubes were that damn restrictive, I think SOMEONE would have come up with a fricken straight pipe and free'd up a ****load of HP. I'm sorry but, it's not like MAC reinvented the wheel or some ****.
Sorry but, I just dont see that happening. Sure, the Straight Shot is a better design than their previous attempts but, by no means is it a revolutionary piece that will humble all other CAI's nor will it create such obsurd power gains. If the stock rubber tubes were that damn restrictive, I think SOMEONE would have come up with a fricken straight pipe and free'd up a ****load of HP. I'm sorry but, it's not like MAC reinvented the wheel or some ****.
Dyno sheets from the Cobra run were faxed over to the SN headquarters from the run. Do not have them in front of me but 3 pulls were made. First with Accufab as it came in the shop with it. Then a 3" pulley added and ran, then the MAC SS on the third pull. Picked up somewhere around 40 HP on the 3rd pull from the 2nd, all said over 100hp with the combo. These are from the sheets sent to us from the facility.
I am sure we will see some independent runs here soon enough as it gets out there. I have had ALOT of systems in my hands over the years, and the quality of the pieces are far better than any other system I have ever seen. That doesn't speak for what actual performance gains are being made, but I can tell you the system has been built right and with a lot of thought put into it.
But, hey, what do I know.
I am sure we will see some independent runs here soon enough as it gets out there. I have had ALOT of systems in my hands over the years, and the quality of the pieces are far better than any other system I have ever seen. That doesn't speak for what actual performance gains are being made, but I can tell you the system has been built right and with a lot of thought put into it.
But, hey, what do I know.
DaMessenger said:
dude, look behind you, see that gigantic pole behind you...... pull it out of your ass
it was a simple question calm down. the place i'm getting it done at has been trying to get tuning equipment in & had some trouble with it, that's what he's referring to. i'm schueduled for monday morning, & i'm assuming the air/fuel will be hooked up, so that's all i can go by. I AM doing this testing for everyone here, including you, because i want them to be informed or their purchases. everyone here works hard for their money, & everyone wants to get the most for their money. in my experience so far with the piece, i don't believe i have gained 25rwhp like the ad says on the banners, but i did get a noticable gain. so we will see what it was on monday.
MaRaburn - I strongly agree, the piece is VEEERY nice. i was suprised with the it when i got it out of the box, i was like
. this is heads & shoulders a better piece than their last, which was on my last stang 
DaMessenger said:
LOL, two words for you, ANGER MANAGEMENT! It was just a question he was asking man, no need to get your panties in a waud. As for the shop, the shop is doing much better. Like c2see21 said, they had trouble with the software and they didn't have anyone that truely knew how to use it. They now have a couple guys working there that do pretty darn good work. I was just poking a little fun. c2see21 knows what I meant by it.
As for the SS, I saw it on his car tonight, and it looks MUCH nicer than any other cold air kit on the market. It looks like MAC did their homework on it this time. As for the dyno results....we'll see, but I think people like you should show a little gratitude that someone is willing to spend their own money to prove the worth of a product so that others will know where to, and where not to spend their money.
Copied from another forum, credit goes to Ed Clark
I've been looking through the threads here and have noticed a trend. This has been discussed before but I'm going to be more blunt.
This trend is mass air meter problems from needlessly changing out a perfectly working stock MAF sensor.
The real problem is that these problems are owner induced almost 100 percent of the time. They start the instant an aftermarket meter is ordered and installed for a car that doesn't need one.
The worst culprit is C&L (sorry C&L). Folks buy these cause they are cheap and appear to be easy power gains. I recently had to retune one of these meters that was installed on a near stock 99GT and had the full C&L treatment on the intake side. IT WAS 35% LEAN ACROSS THE ENTIRE RANGE. This is not uncommon.
ProM meters are better but can still be commonly far enough off to make the car run poorly. Even meters calibrated for stock injectors with a stock curve can vary from stock specs enough to cause issues. Also the exact location and orientation of the MAF can have great affects on the mixture that aren't the MAF sensor's fault. The larger the injector calibration on the MAF sensor the greater the likelyhood of the error.
The computer is capable of pulling about 20 percent fuel to correct rich and adding about 30 percent to correct for lean. Now even though the computer can learn and make these corrections it doesn't mean that it does it good enough to make the car run under all conditions correctly. It can't. It's said that power gains from a MAF swap come from leaning the mixture. But computer is going to try to correct any lean mixture based on O2 sensor voltages. In stock form the computer will even apply these trends learned to WOT.
Then say throw in a mail order chip or a self tuning device and your now hosed. It will run like crap. So a custom tune is then required to reestablish a correct Mass air transfer curve. Once that's done where are you going to get the power gain from? In fact even once corrected it's probably not as accurate as the stock meter.
My suggestions are:
1. Don't buy an aftermarket MAF as a POWER MOD. You buy one if you need to meter more air for your combination. Mainly supercharged setups. I've yet to see a NA 2v peg a stock MAF. Close but not yet. Maybe Ken will.
2. While most tuners can recalibrate any injector/MAF calibration combos try to keep MAFs calibrated for the injectors in use. This allows for simple troubleshooting by simply removing custom chips. The car should still run "OKAY".
3. Keep the screen installed, it's there for reason and it's not trapping debris.
4. Try to only use kits that mount the air filter directly to the front of the MAF sensor.
5. I've never seen an aftermarket MAF that didn't need to be retuned to some degree no matter the calibration. If you have a an aftermarket MAF you probably need a custom tune. If you don't your one of the lucky few.
6. Don't modify the stock MAF. And that means don't cut out the post. It's there for a good reason, air flows around it just fine and removing it WILL affect calibration of the meter. Thus causing the same kind of issues as an aftermarket MAF sensor.
Bottom line is the MAF isn't a restriction for large percentage of people. The Ford meters are more consistant than any aftermarket meter that I've seen so why spend money on them you don't need to.
LOTS OF USEFUL INFORMATION IN THIS THREAD
I've been looking through the threads here and have noticed a trend. This has been discussed before but I'm going to be more blunt.
This trend is mass air meter problems from needlessly changing out a perfectly working stock MAF sensor.
The real problem is that these problems are owner induced almost 100 percent of the time. They start the instant an aftermarket meter is ordered and installed for a car that doesn't need one.
The worst culprit is C&L (sorry C&L). Folks buy these cause they are cheap and appear to be easy power gains. I recently had to retune one of these meters that was installed on a near stock 99GT and had the full C&L treatment on the intake side. IT WAS 35% LEAN ACROSS THE ENTIRE RANGE. This is not uncommon.
ProM meters are better but can still be commonly far enough off to make the car run poorly. Even meters calibrated for stock injectors with a stock curve can vary from stock specs enough to cause issues. Also the exact location and orientation of the MAF can have great affects on the mixture that aren't the MAF sensor's fault. The larger the injector calibration on the MAF sensor the greater the likelyhood of the error.
The computer is capable of pulling about 20 percent fuel to correct rich and adding about 30 percent to correct for lean. Now even though the computer can learn and make these corrections it doesn't mean that it does it good enough to make the car run under all conditions correctly. It can't. It's said that power gains from a MAF swap come from leaning the mixture. But computer is going to try to correct any lean mixture based on O2 sensor voltages. In stock form the computer will even apply these trends learned to WOT.
Then say throw in a mail order chip or a self tuning device and your now hosed. It will run like crap. So a custom tune is then required to reestablish a correct Mass air transfer curve. Once that's done where are you going to get the power gain from? In fact even once corrected it's probably not as accurate as the stock meter.
My suggestions are:
1. Don't buy an aftermarket MAF as a POWER MOD. You buy one if you need to meter more air for your combination. Mainly supercharged setups. I've yet to see a NA 2v peg a stock MAF. Close but not yet. Maybe Ken will.
2. While most tuners can recalibrate any injector/MAF calibration combos try to keep MAFs calibrated for the injectors in use. This allows for simple troubleshooting by simply removing custom chips. The car should still run "OKAY".
3. Keep the screen installed, it's there for reason and it's not trapping debris.
4. Try to only use kits that mount the air filter directly to the front of the MAF sensor.
5. I've never seen an aftermarket MAF that didn't need to be retuned to some degree no matter the calibration. If you have a an aftermarket MAF you probably need a custom tune. If you don't your one of the lucky few.
6. Don't modify the stock MAF. And that means don't cut out the post. It's there for a good reason, air flows around it just fine and removing it WILL affect calibration of the meter. Thus causing the same kind of issues as an aftermarket MAF sensor.
Bottom line is the MAF isn't a restriction for large percentage of people. The Ford meters are more consistant than any aftermarket meter that I've seen so why spend money on them you don't need to.
LOTS OF USEFUL INFORMATION IN THIS THREAD
40th GT
New Member
1992 2.3LX
New Member
i'm waking up at the friggin crack of dawn for you guys & heading to the dyno first thing in the morning . i'll get on the shops computer & post up my results before i even get home. should be done by noon or so EST
. i'll get on the shops computer & post up my results before i even get home. should be done by noon or so EST Similar threads
