Help my car idles too high

69stanger

Founding Member
Oct 20, 2002
102
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CA
I just removed my heater from my car since it was cracked and leaking coolant. I will put it back when I have the funds to get a new unit.

anyways back to the problem, after I removed the heater I restarted up my car and now it idles at 1800-200rpm and it wont come back down to 800-1000 rpm like before. I have not touched the idle screw on my carb or touched the timing so why is it idling so high :shrug:

could a vaccum leak be causing this?

any help would be grealty appreciated.

-Al
 
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BoostedmaxPSI said:
Give it a try, pull a line from your intake manifold/carb and see what happens. You'll suck in air and start to advance timing.










First, I am no nube. Second, everytime I hook up my vac gauge, the car stumbles and just about dies. Far from speeding up the rpm.
 
I don't believe having a vac leak advances the timing. It would create a lean mix, just like you would do if you screwed in the idle mix screws too much and the rpm drops.
 
Ozsum2 said:
First, I am no nube. Second, everytime I hook up my vac gauge, the car stumbles and just about dies. Far from speeding up the rpm.

I just check my last posts and didn't see anything about you being a "nube". Just offering up some advice. I just went to my garage and grabbed a Haynes manual to confirm what I just said. My post was referring to the intake manifold vacuum.
 
BoostedmaxPSI said:
I just check my last posts and didn't see anything about you being a "nube". Just offering up some advice. I just went to my garage and grabbed a Haynes manual to confirm what I just said. My post was referring to the intake manifold vacuum.


Think about my reasoning. I just wanted you to know that I am a former 5000+ poster here on SN.
 
I just went thru this same issue and found a hole in a cap from the vacuum "T" on the back side of the intake manifold. Replaced the cap with a new one and my RPM's dropped back down to normal. This was on my '68 stang with a 289 and C4.