what kind of wax?

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Dark Knight GT said:
I dislike the stuff. It doesn't last long, its difficult to remove, it stains the side trim, and its overall, a pain. Just my thoughts about it.

:stupid:

by far one one of the worst wax's I have tried on my stang. the shine was not that good.....it had no depth at all and had a dull shine to it, and to top it off, the 'shine' only lasted two weeks.
 
streetstang03 said:
:stupid:

by far one one of the worst wax's I have tried on my stang. the shine was not that good.....it had no depth at all and had a dull shine to it, and to top it off, the 'shine' only lasted two weeks.

What depth are you pushing with Zaino and S100?

I had 12" depth on my beetle, and am running about 10" right now on the mustang. :nice:
 
I have a black car....after I bought It, used Dawn dish soap, Meguires(spelling?)paint cleaner, Turtle wax black, then Zymol. All same day. :bang:

I am satisfied with the finish afterwards. I think as previously stated, it is important to clean(polish) the finish before you seal(wax) the paint.
We don't want to seal in dull,faded, or oxidized paint.
 
First of all...I'm noticing most people here think that just because a wax works good on their car, it'll work good on your mineral gray GT. Different waxes work better on different colors. For example, on my black cobra, so far Clearkote Vanilla Moose w/ Clearkote Carnauba wax is turning out to be the best combo IMO.

For mineral gray, I'd go with what Marks5.0 said...Clearkote Vanilla Moose w/ Poorboy's EX-P. Make sure you prep the surface well first with a good swirl remover and a clay bar if necessary. Zaino is a good choice if you want the best durability. You might want to also consider the Klasse twins (All in One and their sealant). NXT probably would look good on mineral gray too.
 
I use to work for Masco Tech/MSX International back in 96&97. We painted the hoods for the Dodge Viper GTS coupes. The blue ones with the white stripes. All that we used on them after they were wet sanded was 3M polishing compound(I forgot which one), followed by Meguires #7 Yellow wax. The results are outstanding. :nice: One of my winter projects if I don't get to do a lot of snowmobiling, is going to be wet sanding and wheeling out my car. No more factory Orange Peel Oxford White on my GT come spring time. :D
 
GT JAY said:
I use to work for Masco Tech/MSX International back in 96&97. We painted the hoods for the Dodge Viper GTS coupes. The blue ones with the white stripes. All that we used on them after they were wet sanded was 3M polishing compound(I forgot which one), followed by Meguires #7 Yellow wax. The results are outstanding. :nice: One of my winter projects if I don't get to do a lot of snowmobiling, is going to be wet sanding and wheeling out my car. No more factory Orange Peel Oxford White on my GT come spring time. :D

Just a quick note. Meguiars number 7 is a polish and the Yellow wax is number 26.
 
spree said:
First of all...I'm noticing most people here think that just because a wax works good on their car, it'll work good on your mineral gray GT. Different waxes work better on different colors. For example, on my black cobra, so far Clearkote Vanilla Moose w/ Clearkote Carnauba wax is turning out to be the best combo IMO.

I am sure it is probably just the way you worded it but no product actually knows what color it is being applied to :) Really the only difference is the look, they will work (as in protection) just the same on any color they are used on. I do agree though that carnauba can tend to hide or distort the flakes in highly metallic paints. There are a few carnaubas though that are very clear like Meguiars #16, P21S or S100 and a few others that would all look really good on Mineral Gray. It all comes down to a matter or personal preference as any of the products mentioned in this thread are pretty good.
 
I just now bought some Meguiars number 3 glaze and used it on my car. I noticed this stuff is thick and a bit difficult to get off at first but it really seems to bring out a beautiful shine like nothing I've ever seen. Anyone else try this stuff ?
 
Dark Knight GT said:
I just now bought some Meguiars number 3 glaze and used it on my car. I noticed this stuff is thick and a bit difficult to get off at first but it really seems to bring out a beautiful shine like nothing I've ever seen. Anyone else try this stuff ?

#3 is machine glaze. You are probably having problems removing it because it is really designed to be used with a rotary buffer. If you are working by hand I would go with #7 show car glaze or #81 hand polish. They will both give you the exact same results but, will probably be a bit easier to use. I am sure you already know but, these are all glazes and do not offer any protection for your paint. You will need to top it with a wax.
 
rjstaaf said:
I am sure it is probably just the way you worded it but no product actually knows what color it is being applied to :) Really the only difference is the look, they will work (as in protection) just the same on any color they are used on.

Yeah that's what I was saying (or trying to say) :nice:
 
rjstaaf said:
#3 is machine glaze. You are probably having problems removing it because it is really designed to be used with a rotary buffer. If you are working by hand I would go with #7 show car glaze or #81 hand polish. They will both give you the exact same results but, will probably be a bit easier to use. I am sure you already know but, these are all glazes and do not offer any protection for your paint. You will need to top it with a wax.
Well, I am using a 10in orbital buffer. It spreads really good but its just a bit difficult to buff off. I'm wondering should I do this before or after I put on the mothers Step 2 sealer glaze ? I wouldn't be using it but it just works so good I feel the need to use it. The more pure polish, the better. It really helps to enrich the surface of the black clearcoat. Yes, I know its only a polish and I will need to top it. I have both Meguiars number 20 and 26 here to do that with. Thanks again Rjstaaf.