Sway Bar/Sub-Frame Connectors

[JamesBaumann]

I got a couple questions about both a rear sway bar and sub-frame connectors.

First off, will a rear sway bar from any 5.0 Fox Body Mustang swap into my 88 2.3? Or does it have to be from a GT specifically? Also, do I have to make any mods to make this 5.0 Rear Sway Bar swap in or can I just bolt it directly up to the control arms?

Now, for sub-frame connectors. I know that these are supposed to increase handling capabilities, but what specifically do they do and how easy are they to bolt on? I'm assuming that our 2.3 Mustang dont come with them from the factory, correct? I ran a search for Sub-Frame Connectors and got nothing, thanks for your help.

 

[Dan P.]

I got a couple questions about both a rear sway bar and sub-frame connectors.

First off, will a rear sway bar from any 5.0 Fox Body Mustang swap into my 88 2.3? Or does it have to be from a GT specifically? Also, do I have to make any mods to make this 5.0 Rear Sway Bar swap in or can I just bolt it directly up to the control arms?

Now, for sub-frame connectors. I know that these are supposed to increase handling capabilities, but what specifically do they do and how easy are they to bolt on? I'm assuming that our 2.3 Mustang dont come with them from the factory, correct? I ran a search for Sub-Frame Connectors and got nothing, thanks for your help.

All you need are 4 bolts and 4 nuts to put the sway bar onto your stang. Any Fox 5.0 rear sway bar will fit the 2.3s.

The best thing to do is to have sub frames welded in. They will lose their effectiveness if you just bolt them in. Mine are a custom set from a local Mustang shop. They are full length and are welded and painted over to help prevent rust. Subs are meant to prevent the chassis from flexing.

Take a look at my site to see what mine look like.

Dan

 

[JamesBaumann]

All you need are 4 bolts and 4 nuts to put the sway bar onto your stang. Any Fox 5.0 rear sway bar will fit the 2.3s.

The best thing to do is to have sub frames welded in. They will lose their effectiveness if you just bolt them in. Mine are a custom set from a local Mustang shop. They are full length and are welded and painted over to help prevent rust. Subs are meant to prevent the chassis from flexing.

Take a look at my site to see what mine look like.

Dan

Thanks much for the help. I'll search around at the local auto recyclers and try to find me a 5.0 rear sway bar. I'm assuming that there are already existing holes in the control arms to accomodate the sway bar, or do they need to be drilled?

Is there a certain company that makes a sub-frame connector that you would recommend purchasing them from? I'll take a look around, and I'll definitely look to have them welded in.

I took a look at your car domain page. Car looks good and now I am getting more of an idea of what these things look like. Thanks again for the input.

 

[Asha'man]

You can use a swaybar from a Turbocoupe, too, if you can't find any 5.0 cars.

I have UPR subs, they're okay but needed quite a bit of prep and some "clearancing" to fit (read "BFH"). Definitely a good mod, though, I can feel the mediocrity of my suspension now.

Ash

 

[JamesBaumann]

I think I am going to start myself off with a rear sway bar and some wider wheels and nice tires, and we'll see how the handling responds to that. If I catch the fever then maybe I'll go with some sub-frame connectors and if I still have it after that then I'll look at stiffer shocks and struts.

 

[stang2.3t]

I am currently using the front and rear sway bar from a Turbo coupe on my 90 2.3. Oh yes does that help a ton.

 

[scorp69]

stang, is the turbocoupe sway bar the same diameter as the 5.0. i was thinking of putting a 5.0 in my svo. front and rear. 20 year old stangs need a lot of help suspension wise.

 

[Xaranthu]

Now, for sub-frame connectors. I know that these are supposed to increase handling capabilities, but what specifically do they do and how easy are they to bolt on? I'm assuming that our 2.3 Mustang dont come with them from the factory, correct? I ran a search for Sub-Frame Connectors and got nothing, thanks for your help.

Maximum Motorsports Sub Frame Connectors
GT or TC Sway Bar
Forced4 Motorsports PLA Strut Tower Brace

I used the full length MM sub frames on my 84 SVO and it made a huge difference in how the car felt. Odly enough cornering was where I felt the most difference.

Z.

 

[PonyBoy84]

Be careful with the TC front sway bar. I think the diameter is the same as the Mustang GT's but the one I got was too wide and rubbed on the struts. This was on an 89 2.3 vert and the sway bar was from an 88 TC. I'm not sure if this makes any difference.

The rear couldn't be any easier though.

 

[Stinger]

I can sell you some weld in sub-frames for a great price...check my site.

 

[JamesBaumann]

I can sell you some weld in sub-frames for a great price...check my site.

I'll let you know when I am interested in purchasing some. Can you calculate how much it would be to ship them to this Canadian Postal Code?

V9L5P1

Thanks.

 

[Red_LX]

Gotta make a little correction on the swaybars here-

First off, ANY rear swaybar up to the 2004's will fit on a fox. They all bolt up the same except that the 99+ swaybars are 7/8", versus the 3/4" one on Fox 5.0's and turbo coupes. Also, the SN95 Cobras have a 1" rear swaybar, but you'll pay out the ass for one of those, so I recommend finding a 99-04 GT rear bar. I'm not sure how easy they are to find nowadays, I got mine off ebay about 3-4 years ago as a new takeoff for $40.

Also, on the front swaybar, I had a turbo coupe front swaybar on my '90 and never had any problems with it. PonyBoy, did you use the Mustang frame mounts on your TC swaybar or did you use the TC mounts? If you used the Mustang mounts, that's what your problem was. The TC bar has less of a "drop" in the middle of the bar, so you have to use the TC mounts which drop the bar down away from the frame. Also, from what I've read, I believe the TC front bars are stiffer due to the smaller drop in the middle of the bar.

 

[JamesBaumann]

Gotta make a little correction on the swaybars here-

First off, ANY rear swaybar up to the 2004's will fit on a fox. They all bolt up the same except that the 99+ swaybars are 7/8", versus the 3/4" one on Fox 5.0's and turbo coupes. Also, the SN95 Cobras have a 1" rear swaybar, but you'll pay out the ass for one of those, so I recommend finding a 99-04 GT rear bar. I'm not sure how easy they are to find nowadays, I got mine off ebay about 3-4 years ago as a new takeoff for $40.

Also, on the front swaybar, I had a turbo coupe front swaybar on my '90 and never had any problems with it. PonyBoy, did you use the Mustang frame mounts on your TC swaybar or did you use the TC mounts? If you used the Mustang mounts, that's what your problem was. The TC bar has less of a "drop" in the middle of the bar, so you have to use the TC mounts which drop the bar down away from the frame. Also, from what I've read, I believe the TC front bars are stiffer due to the smaller drop in the middle of the bar.

Good info there. One more question about rear sway bars, were they only found on Mustang GT's or can I find one on say an 87-93 5.0L LX?

 

[scorp69]

lx/gt have the same suspension. I would put a panhard bar in the rear. i'm debating whether to put one on my cobra or svo. probably svo since its older. that thing rides harsh right now.

 

[Red_LX]

One more thing, although it's not really an applicable point if you're not putting in springs now....BUT- if you ever do install springs, MAKE SURE you get shorter end links. Back when I had my '90, I put some cut 5.0 springs in the front that didn't really lower the car all that much, and I never even thought to change the end links. In December I went over a fairly large bump in the road and when the suspension compressed, the swaybar swung back and broke the hardline that comes out of the front of the steering rack. I used probably 3-4 quarts of power steering fluid just to get home. Besides the fact that you CANNOT buy this line anywhere (nobody sells it seperately), I had to go down the road and find a guy that had a junked Mustang sitting in his yard, remove the line in 20 degree weather, and then replace the one on my car in 20 degree weather. That line is a total bitch to change, and by the time I was done my hands and feet were both numb. That is not an experience I wish to repeat!

Just some words of warning

 

[JamesBaumann]

One more thing, although it's not really an applicable point if you're not putting in springs now....BUT- if you ever do install springs, MAKE SURE you get shorter end links. Back when I had my '90, I put some cut 5.0 springs in the front that didn't really lower the car all that much, and I never even thought to change the end links. In December I went over a fairly large bump in the road and when the suspension compressed, the swaybar swung back and broke the hardline that comes out of the front of the steering rack. I used probably 3-4 quarts of power steering fluid just to get home. Besides the fact that you CANNOT buy this line anywhere (nobody sells it seperately), I had to go down the road and find a guy that had a junked Mustang sitting in his yard, remove the line in 20 degree weather, and then replace the one on my car in 20 degree weather. That line is a total bitch to change, and by the time I was done my hands and feet were both numb. That is not an experience I wish to repeat!

Just some words of warning

Tough break, I'll keep that in mind. But I dont really think that is going to be a problem for me because I dont think I'll be doing springs. To be honest with ya, I dont even know what end links are, so Im not gonna go messing around with that too much. Just probably a rear sway bar, some sub-frame connectors and wider wheels with nicer tires on them will be about all I do to it.

 

[Red_LX]

So you're gonna put on a rear swaybar but you're keeping the stock front swaybar?

Well...just watch the handling. The car may develop a tendency to oversteer with a rear swaybar that's almost as big as the front one (course, I could be wrong since I don't think the design of the rear swaybar on the fox cars is a very effective one)

 

[My80Cobra]

You'll be fine with the big sway bar in back and the little on up front. I have been running like that for a while now with no side effects. I have the big bar painted and ready to go in with the rest of the work soon to happen..

 

[JamesBaumann]

So you're gonna put on a rear swaybar but you're keeping the stock front swaybar?

Well...just watch the handling. The car may develop a tendency to oversteer with a rear swaybar that's almost as big as the front one (course, I could be wrong since I don't think the design of the rear swaybar on the fox cars is a very effective one)

I'll be sure to keep an eye out on the handling. If I for whatever reason don't like it, then I could easily just swap it off. I have been doing some more reading on sub-frame connectors and I am beginning to think that I really want some. Even if not for handling purposes, I'd just like to have the car feel more sturdy than it does now. 1988 makes it 16 years old, so I am getting some rattles and what not, if I could put an end to those with sub-frames then I'd be a lot happier with the whole thing I think.