what kind of wax?

[MichaelB21]

Well, I am using a 10in orbital buffer. It spreads really good but its just a bit difficult to buff off. I'm wondering should I do this before or after I put on the mothers Step 2 sealer glaze ? I wouldn't be using it but it just works so good I feel the need to use it. The more pure polish, the better. It really helps to enrich the surface of the black clearcoat. Yes, I know its only a polish and I will need to top it. I have both Meguiars number 20 and 26 here to do that with. Thanks again Rjstaaf.

Hey Heath,

If you want the car to really shine, then you need to have good surface prep. I'm not sure what your process is, but have you dawned and clayed the car before? You should also include an abrasive like #9 to elimate some swirls and scratches. You could also look into #82 Swirl Free Polish (to use after #9 or in place of it), I was really happy with the results on my true blue, it'd look even better on black. I've never used #3 before, but the reason it is probably so difficult to come off is because your orbital cannot generate enough heat to break down the substance all the way. I'd use #7 or #81, like Bob said. Then naturally follow with 20 or 26.

I personally hate to cross brands, so I wouldn't use the Mothers.

On a side note, I currently have Zaino on my car. The products are definitely quality, but it just doesn't give me a Meguiars soft/deep shine. It is more hard and glassy looking. It seems to do better against the elements than my Meguiars did, and as I near crappy weather in Washington I need all the durability I can get.

 

[Dark Knight GT]

Michael, thanks for the post. I've already surfaced prepped the car BIG TIME. This thing has been hit with every swirl remover and rubbing compound I could come across. Not to mention its been claybared twice and washed down with dishliquid about 3 or 4 times I can think of. So, its clean lol. I have Mothers 3 step system here but I really like the glazed look the Meguiars number 3 gives. It leaves it with a more hard feeling, not soft and it looks durable. I think I need a stronger buffer to be honest. Maybe I'll go out and look for a faster speed.

 

[super302]

well, i'll tell you this...turtle wax ultra gloss is pretty nice

 

[04redfiresnake]

Zaino

 

[MichaelB21]

Michael, thanks for the post. I've already surfaced prepped the car BIG TIME. This thing has been hit with every swirl remover and rubbing compound I could come across. Not to mention its been claybared twice and washed down with dishliquid about 3 or 4 times I can think of. So, its clean lol. I have Mothers 3 step system here but I really like the glazed look the Meguiars number 3 gives. It leaves it with a more hard feeling, not soft and it looks durable. I think I need a stronger buffer to be honest. Maybe I'll go out and look for a faster speed.

What buffer do you have? The best one you can get that is still safe is the Porter Cable 7424 found here:

http://www.propercarcare.com/poca746varap.html

I have this one and I've never looked back. At the risk of sounding cliche, it was the best car care investment I've ever made.

 

[rjstaaf]

Meguiars is currently having a special ($149) on their version of the PC called the G-100. It is the same machine that Michael pointed out except Meguiars offers a lifetime warranty whereas other places offer the standard Porter Cable 1 year warranty.

http://www.meguiarsonline.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=2544

 

[Dark Knight GT]

Meguiars is currently having a special ($149) on their version of the PC called the G-100. It is the same machine that Michael pointed out except Meguiars offers a lifetime warranty whereas other places offer the standard Porter Cable 1 year warranty.

http://www.meguiarsonline.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=2544

Bob, I don't see myself investing 149 dollars, plus any tax and shipping fees simply in a Porter Cable. No offense, but thats outrageous. For that price, it had better do all the work for me(and it's not going to). Not trying to sound "outraged" but I mean seriously lol.

 

[TurboFlush]

Anyone ever tried http://www.buffalomilke.com/ ???
Looks to be a great thing, with half the work. I still think it would be smart to prep the surface though.
I got an old paint job from the late 80's and have problems mainly with birds crapping on the paint and etching spots into the paint. then there is the rain that never fails to come right after I wax it, and leave all sorts of nasty dust all over the paint.

I use Meguiars Gold wax now, because it gives a great deep shine. but only lasts about a month, sadly.

 

[rjstaaf]

Bob, I don't see myself investing 149 dollars, plus any tax and shipping fees simply in a Porter Cable. No offense, but thats outrageous. For that price, it had better do all the work for me(and it's not going to). Not trying to sound "outraged" but I mean seriously lol.

That is up to you. I guess I just thought you actually wanted to "remove" the swirls. None of the cheaper orbitals are going to remove swirls. They are basically applicators only. The best you can hope for with the tools you have is to cover up the swirls with products that you have already mentioned like #3 machine glaze.

 

[Dark Knight GT]

That is up to you. I guess I just thought you actually wanted to "remove" the swirls. None of the cheaper orbitals are going to remove swirls. They are basically applicators only. The best you can hope for with the tools you have is to cover up the swirls with products that you have already mentioned like #3 machine glaze.

A lot of it is in the technique of how you apply the products to remove swirls. You must remember that swirls, although in the clearcoat, are often times deeper that what you can remove completely without removing too much clearcoat. Thats why almost every single rubbing compound I can think of has polishing oils in it to help cover up what it can't buff out. To be honest, I don't think there is any Orbital buffer, rotary buffer, Porter cable, or any paint product, whether it be tool or formula that will completely remove swirls and scratches to where they can't be seen by ANYONE under ANY form of light. A lot of the swirls I have in my paint, I have managed to remove using this orbital buffer and the rubbing compounds I've been using. I also don't mean "covering them up" either as I've washed my car down afterwards with dishliquid and the swirls were still gone so I guess its working. Took a lot of work though.

 

[rjstaaf]

A lot of it is in the technique of how you apply the products to remove swirls. You must remember that swirls, although in the clearcoat, are often times deeper that what you can remove completely without removing too much clearcoat. Thats why almost every single rubbing compound I can think of has polishing oils in it to help cover up what it can't buff out. To be honest, I don't think there is any Orbital buffer, rotary buffer, Porter cable, or any paint product, whether it be tool or formula that will completely remove swirls and scratches to where they can't be seen by ANYONE under ANY form of light. A lot of the swirls I have in my paint, I have managed to remove using this orbital buffer and the rubbing compounds I've been using. I also don't mean "covering them up" either as I've washed my car down afterwards with dishliquid and the swirls were still gone so I guess its working. Took a lot of work though.

I don't even know where to start here. You are contradicting yourself first saying you don't think there is anything that can completely remove swirls and then later you say you used your orbital and washed with dishwashing liquid and they were gone?

Let me just first clear up a couple of misconceptions. First, the oils in most products are primarily there to buffer the abrassives so that they do not scour the paint. The filling is just a side affect. Yes, you do need to remove the oils to be sure the defect you are trying to remove is actually gone. I usually have a spray bottle of a 50/50 mix of water and alcohol to wipe away any oils.

Second, sure you may believe that nothing can actually remove swirls because you are used to your orbital. The PC runs quite a bit faster than any orbital making it quite a bit more effective. Have you actually ever used a PC or a rotary buffer? A rotary buffer can actually completely remove the clear in the blink of an eye.

I am not going to be drawn into an argument here. I never tried to force you to by the PC. If you don't want one, more power to ya

 

[super302]

OT: I just ordered a PC yesterday, can't wait till it comes

 

[Dark Knight GT]

I don't even know where to start here. You are contradicting yourself first saying you don't think there is anything that can completely remove swirls and then later you say you used your orbital and washed with dishwashing liquid and they were gone?

I'm not contradicting myself. If you read my above post, I said I got "most" of the swirls out. Naturally, I'm not going to get them all out.

Second, sure you may believe that nothing can actually remove swirls because you are used to your orbital. The PC runs quite a bit faster than any orbital making it quite a bit more effective. Have you actually ever used a PC or a rotary buffer? A rotary buffer can actually completely remove the clear in the blink of an eye.

I know a PC runs quite a bit faster than an orbital buffer. No, I've never used one nor have I used a rotary buffer, and yes, I've heard some horror stories about the rotary buffers. However, I don't think the PC is going to remove the every single little swirl and scratch. At least not for my car. It's an outside car and lets just say until about a year ago, I never really cared about taking good care of my paint. Sure, I did what most people do. Bought an expensive 175 dollar car cover that was "guaranteed" to last, used Meguiars gold class wax, kept the car cleaned, and used terry cloth towels to buff off waxes and wipe the cars surface down. As you can tell, that was all very stupid of me. The car cover never lasted worth a crap, the Gold class wax was horrible, and the terry cloth towels was a big mistake. Over time, its accumulated swirls and fine scratches all over it. Many I have managed to thin out and remove but that has been with many different compounds and formulas and hours of work, both by hand and by orbital buffer. However, I don't see where certain scratches and swirls are going to come out even with a porter cable. I honestly don't see it happening. Aside from that, a car that is driven daily and sets outside, even with good car covers over it is going to accumulate swirls anyway. There's no way to keep them out of it unless if you obsess with the vehicle, keep in in a garage to detail it all the time, and never drive it.

 

[rjstaaf]

I'm not contradicting myself. If you read my above post, I said I got "most" of the swirls out. Naturally, I'm not going to get them all out.

I know a PC runs quite a bit faster than an orbital buffer. No, I've never used one nor have I used a rotary buffer, and yes, I've heard some horror stories about the rotary buffers. However, I don't think the PC is going to remove the every single little swirl and scratch. At least not for my car. It's an outside car and lets just say until about a year ago, I never really cared about taking good care of my paint. Sure, I did what most people do. Bought an expensive 175 dollar car cover that was "guaranteed" to last, used Meguiars gold class wax, kept the car cleaned, and used terry cloth towels to buff off waxes and wipe the cars surface down. As you can tell, that was all very stupid of me. The car cover never lasted worth a crap, the Gold class wax was horrible, and the terry cloth towels was a big mistake. Over time, its accumulated swirls and fine scratches all over it. Many I have managed to thin out and remove but that has been with many different compounds and formulas and hours of work, both by hand and by orbital buffer. However, I don't see where certain scratches and swirls are going to come out even with a porter cable. I honestly don't see it happening. Aside from that, a car that is driven daily and sets outside, even with good car covers over it is going to accumulate swirls anyway. There's no way to keep them out of it unless if you obsess with the vehicle, keep in in a garage to detail it all the time, and never drive it.

I don't believe in any of my posts I said the PC would remove "every" swirl or scratch. A while back in this thread you posted the following statement "I think I need a stronger buffer to be honest." I suggested the PC as a possibility and from there on you have gone on about the PC like I suggested you have a limb removed or something.

No, the PC will NOT remove every scratch or swirl but, as I have been saying the PC is going to be far more effective than any orbital you will find anywhere. This has been my position all along. As to horror stories about rotary buffers, you can bet they occured in the hands of inexperienced or careless users. The rotary buffer is perfectly safe when it is in the hands of someone skilled in its operation.

My Mustang too is a daily driver. As a matter of fact it sees about 30K miles a year. There are strategies you can use to minimize the chances of getting swirls and scratches in the first place. Most swirls occur when you wash and dry your car. There is a good article HERE on washing and drying your car. A few of the things I do to minimize scratches are

1. Use two buckets, one for clean rinse water and the other with the water/car wash mix. Frequently rinse your wash mitt in the clean rinse water to remove debris that can scratch your paint.

2. Use a wash mitt with long fibers that help pull debris away from your paint. Natural sheepskin wool washmitts are the best.

3. After washing, use your hose without a nozzle letting water flow over the car causing a sheeting action that will minimize the water left on the paint making drying easier.

I would replace any cotton towels you have with microfiber. Microfiber is all that touches any painted surface on my car these days. For applying wax I use foam pads, for removing wax and quick detailing I use microfiber with a terry nap and lastly for drying I use microfiber with a waffle weave. You can find microfiber just about everywhere these days but, I usually get mine either from www.autopia-carcare.com or www.pakshak.com.

Hope this helps.

 

[Dark Knight GT]

1. Use two buckets, one for clean rinse water and the other with the water/car wash mix. Frequently rinse your wash mitt in the clean rinse water to remove debris that can scratch your paint.

2. Use a wash mitt with long fibers that help pull debris away from your paint. Natural sheepskin wool washmitts are the best.

3. After washing, use your hose without a nozzle letting water flow over the car causing a sheeting action that will minimize the water left on the paint making drying easier.

I currently do all of this, except for the part about two buckets. I just soak the car, use Meguiars NXT car wash with a wool wash mit, then, after wiping the car down with the car wash soaked mit, I just spray the area off using a full stream of water from the hose. I don't keep a nozzle on it. I've found the natural flow from the shape of the hose works best to create that water sheathing effect. Thanks for the information though.

 

[MichaelB21]

Leaf blower is my favorite way. I've never had that good of luck with the sheeting effect on areas like the roof or hood. Then I just take my pakshak towels (man I love these things, wish I had a bathrobe made out of them) and dry what remains.

I've found that even when doing that, I still get spots and what not. So I just take a clean microfiber and dip a corner in clean water with some car washing soap in it and rub the affected area and then dry it with the rest of the towel and the spots are gone. Works really well and I haven't found any new scratches from doing it. I am guessing it is just because the pakshak towels are so good.

I just want the 05 to come out.

 

[rjstaaf]

Leaf blower is my favorite way. I've never had that good of luck with the sheeting effect on areas like the roof or hood. Then I just take my pakshak towels (man I love these things, wish I had a bathrobe made out of them) and dry what remains.

I've found that even when doing that, I still get spots and what not. So I just take a clean microfiber and dip a corner in clean water with some car washing soap in it and rub the affected area and then dry it with the rest of the towel and the spots are gone. Works really well and I haven't found any new scratches from doing it. I am guessing it is just because the pakshak towels are so good.

I just want the 05 to come out.

Michael,

Have you seen the artist rendering of Cervini's Eleanor body kit for the '05? I sent them an email today begging them to make something like that for 99-04 Mustangs.

As to the water spots, when do you wash your car? If you stick to doing it either very early in the morning or early evening you should be able to avoid that problem.

 

[Dark Knight GT]

Leaf blower is my favorite way. I've never had that good of luck with the sheeting effect on areas like the roof or hood. Then I just take my pakshak towels (man I love these things, wish I had a bathrobe made out of them) and dry what remains.

I've found that even when doing that, I still get spots and what not. So I just take a clean microfiber and dip a corner in clean water with some car washing soap in it and rub the affected area and then dry it with the rest of the towel and the spots are gone. Works really well and I haven't found any new scratches from doing it. I am guessing it is just because the pakshak towels are so good.

I just want the 05 to come out.

I never thought of the leaf blower. That sounds like an interesting idea. I guess if I decide to do it, I better make sure the leaf blower is cleaned out or I'll blow dirt and dust on my car.

 

[OrangaTang]

WOW, this has drawn into a big pile of work. I have detailed cars professionally for many years and it just comes down to common sense. True different colors require different techniques. I have had every color practically that Mustangs come in. Perks of a father thats a GM of the local Ford store. Anyways, you will drown your life in Karate Kid misery, wax on wax off, if you try and remove all the blemishes that a daily driver will endure. Personally I have a Laser Red GT, a black V-Dub Jetta that my wife drives and I just sold my black Lightining show truck. All of with I used a Craftsman 10in applicator buffer to apply and remove with using a foam bonnet to apply and a custom made microfiber bonnet to remove with, then I go back over by had using a finishing cloth. I use Meguiars Gold Class and virtually have no complaints. A big bad PC is not going to make it all go away and most the time it makes it worse because people don't know how to use them properly. I have used EVERY polish product on the market and have a small auto store in my garage from all the trail bottles on the shelf. There are really no miracle products out there. I have learned that if you use good soft clean products to wash you car with as well as a good wash soap, I avoid those dish soaps. I feel they just cause for more work. Then dry thoroughly and quickly from the top of the car down. Also, I clean and dry in straight lines, that way when you apply product in figure 8's like most orbitals do, you aren't just layin swirls on swirls. I detail Porsches, Ferrari's and everything else and I use these tactics on them all. Sure there will be personal preference on any product, just like tire dressing, you just have to find a product that works for you in climate you have as well as the color you have. Good Luck!