not all sub frames are created equal. you get what you pay for. I know. I had kenny brown in my lx and they were that great. I just installed some custom ones from a local shop on my 84 svo and could notice a big difference. the car was driving straight for the first time. i just need to take it down the rough roads for the final test. also, depending on the sub, welding isn't cheap. some things aren't worth doing in the back yard. again, you get what you pay for.
sub frames, do they really work?
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blackstangt
Member
do them, wether you buy them or get custom ones made, get them done and do it as soon as possible. Also, weld them or have them welded in, dont waste your time or money with bolt-ins, although I bolted and welded mine in, then welded the bolts....
super302
I'd do anything for free Bapples
Mavrick
Founding Member
SmockDoiley said:
Why are you laughing at that? 11-17 year old STOCK mustangs are mostly twisted from the torque of a stock motor. Unibody's are weak, your an ignorant tool for that comment.
88POSLX
Founding Member
SmockDoiley said:
I agree, not much power. But after a couple launches on slicks my door wasn't opening and closing like it used to, so I figured I'd better do the sfc's.
Actually, I have to agree with the above two comments (although I may not have been so harsh in my reply 
) It doesn't take much to twist a stock fox body. Even less when the car's got a few years worth of rust on it and the metal has fatigued. Besides it’s not only torque that twist the chassis. These cars are amongst the worst riding I’ve ever been in and you can only transfer every feeling of every pebble, crack and bump in the road through its chassis so many times before things start to give. I've even seen a couple of windshield pillars and windshields crack over time from the body flex.
Stiffening the chassis up give the suspension the chance to do its job properly, without absorbing half of the shock through the rest of the body.
) It doesn't take much to twist a stock fox body. Even less when the car's got a few years worth of rust on it and the metal has fatigued. Besides it’s not only torque that twist the chassis. These cars are amongst the worst riding I’ve ever been in and you can only transfer every feeling of every pebble, crack and bump in the road through its chassis so many times before things start to give. I've even seen a couple of windshield pillars and windshields crack over time from the body flex. Stiffening the chassis up give the suspension the chance to do its job properly, without absorbing half of the shock through the rest of the body.
runningmole
Founding Member
dastang2 said:
That's the stuff. Griggs Racing sells a kit. I'm going to get some custom ones put it, but same end result
_jb_
New Member
runningmole. since you're in san diego, call grc performance in mission viejo. they have full length custom subs. just got mine put in my 84 svo and its night and day. still need some in my cobra. it'll be around $300 or so for everything. the subs are really good. better than MM if I dare say.
The bolt on ones work themselves loose all the time and never do as good a jo (even tight) as welded in ones. Which ever set you buy...welding them in should be your only option._JB_ said:
I have crappy UPR subs, and they still helped a lot. Tightened a lot of squeaks and rattles, and made me feel the gross inadequacy of my stock suspension. Good thing I've got the Bilsteins half in (haven't done the rears yet), the car feels totally different.
Ash
Ash
I was gonna get the full length MM subs. So GRCs are better in what way? How long did it take them to install the SFCs? Any pix?scorp69 said:
the grc ones are more stout looking. mm are good also, but I think the grc are better, even though i have never used mm subs, but have used other parts. call umberto at grc and tell him carlos(i get no discounts for this) told you about them. he can give you the full specs. its about $150 to install.
rd
Founding Member
Subframe connectors are absolutely worth it. Cost goes from $22 plus welding wire for my homemades, to $100 plus welding cost for the Steeda's I put on the earlier car, on up. Depends on your level of self involvement. Anything under $200 for turnkey is reasonable.
There are some differences, more is better, and the braces under the seat bolts are well worth it.
I would not worry so much about the cost, the benefits are worth it.
There are some differences, more is better, and the braces under the seat bolts are well worth it.
I would not worry so much about the cost, the benefits are worth it.
CManT1914
New Member
I haven't read the whole post, sorry if this has already been asked. But how do the Kenny Brown's stack up against Steeda and Maximum Motorsport's setups? They do have the seat supports correct?
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