10 Hole Wheel Lover!

Schlodes said:
I like 10 holes as well... as long as the clear has been removed and the surface polished.,.. they are hard to beat. Infact I am working on a set now for my LX Polishing the surface and cap then going to paint the Ford Oval lettering and oval in the middle of the center cap, black with a pencil.. dipping it in paint every so often.... :nice:

One is done so far and looks killer... and there is a place in London Ont., that used to narrow rims... I wanna see about having two narrowed use em as front runners..

Ultimate sleeper.. My car idles quieter than stock, and with 10 holes would be such a sleeper cept fer the Cervinis hood.

Heya... post pics of the one that you've got finished. That'd be kewl.
 
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10 holes!

Been a while since I've posted, but ten holes... can't resist! I'm also a 10 hole lover... I have a stock set on my 89 vert. Also I have skinny ten holes! I'll attach a pic, they're 3.5", and I have another stock pair that has drag radials on them right now, but I've long been wanting to get them widened! I never used to like them much, but they really grew on me. The best mustang wheel ever made.
Yes, I said ever. :lol:
 

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I had some narrowed 15X5 10 holes. Sold them and got draglites... like someone else said, nobody looks at you with 10 holes. I'd have muscle cars zooming past me to the riced honda civic a few cars ahead, kinda pissed me off that nobody wanted to play with me :banana:

Anyways, here they are.


10holes01.jpg

10holes02.jpg

10holes03.jpg
 
This is a sweet 10 hole thread :hail2:

88POSLX, could you give a little info on how to do that finish? Is that aregent paint? did you paint the wheels first, then polish? I've got an extra set I can work on, so I can take my time. Definately would like to widen them too.
 
Give me some insight, I'm kinda stuck between the polish w/ paint look, polishing everything, and just painting the whole wheel argent. What would look better in your opinion? What do need to do the polishing? Do you have to use primer on aluminum? What's the best prep for paint? sanding? getting out blemishes and stuff.

What about the center caps? do they polish?

Would chroming everything be easier?
 
wow,
compliments on those modified 10 holes :nice:

I can't wait to get mine done. I love the way they look....it's just too bad they weigh so much. I think it would be a GREAT idea if Weld, or some racing wheel company, came out with a lightweight imitation.....I'd be first in line to pick them up.
 
Wow i'm not sure how i missed this thread, but i'm the 10 hole MAN! lol

Here's pics of my car. I had some polished but they looked too much like stock wheels, so i went with the painted look. The paint is almost the same color as the stock Pony color.

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I like'em without the centercaps, and with a nice chrome set of lug nuts. I've got the centers painted to match but they just look a bit wimpy with'em on. I'm getting another set and i'm gonna experiment with some different colors, maybe paint the center flat part a gunmetal color, and paint the inner holes black, then polish the outer lip....i think that's my plan but we'll see. DONT ANY OF YOU STEAL MY IDEA!!! :rlaugh:
 
There's different ways I've learned lately. You can wet sand or use heavy cutting compounds to remove the rough casting/machine grooves. After that you switch to the finer stuff. There are lots of different buffing/polishing compounds from rough to very fine. You use buffing wheels on your die grinder, drill, sander, etc...the wheels come in diferent shapes, sizes, and material for different applications.

Here's a couple links, you can look over the materials
Eastwood
Jestco products

For general polishing of shiny metal and even buffing yellowed headlights, the Autosol that Eastwood sells is awsome. All my lights are nice and clear now. It's the final step I used on the wheel above, leaves a protective coating behind. I tried clear coating but it dulls the mirror finish a bit, which is common.
 
Daggar said:
Has anyone ever tried stipping, polishing, then re-clear coating? How difficult is it to maintain the open pore aluminum once they're stripped?

I didn't re-clear mine and haven't had any problems so far. I wash them really good once a week. I imagine if you let dirt or brake dust build up on them it would be hard to remove.
 
Daggar said:
Has anyone ever tried stipping, polishing, then re-clear coating? How difficult is it to maintain the open pore aluminum once they're stripped?

There's some stuff out there called Zoop Aluminum Sealer....you can search for it online and you should find it...but it's not cheap. A guy at my local speed shop swears buy it...he used some on his Welds on his racecar and says he NEVER cleans his rims, but they look absolutely brand new. Even though his racecar never sees rain or road grime, i'd still say that's impressive because he's had these wheels on his car for a few years now.
 
Cool... found the Zoop stuff online jsut like you said. I'm working on having a pair of these 10 holes widened to 9 inches for the rear for a set of Nitto 555r in 275 series tires. Once I get that done and get the rims back I'll be getting some of that stuff to finish it off. Thanks for the tip. :)
 
Daggar said:
Cool... found the Zoop stuff online jsut like you said. I'm working on having a pair of these 10 holes widened to 9 inches for the rear for a set of Nitto 555r in 275 series tires. Once I get that done and get the rims back I'll be getting some of that stuff to finish it off. Thanks for the tip. :)


Sweet....can i make a suggestion? Since you're gonna have yours widened, which is something i've always wanted to do but never seem to get around to....my idea was to have about an inch added to the OUTER edge of the back wheels to give it a little deep dish...this would looks sweeeet IMO, but i'm not sure how the weld would come out or if it would rub the fenders any...other than that i was gonna go with 9 inches too. I'd love to get a second set of 2 and have skinnies made. Whoever you have do yours, check and see if they can add anything to the inside of the wheel where it meets up with the brake disks/wheel hubs to space them outwards a little bit.