MY FIRST STANG!!!!!!!!

N

need2goFAST

New Member
Aug 7, 2003
117
0
0
Joliet, IL
#1
Well lets just say going from GM 305's to FORD 302's is one hell of a difference. I now own a 95 Mustang GT (forest green) it has a few things done to it...

CAI
75mm TB
Edelbrock performer intake manifold
MSD Ignition
Flowmaster dumps
Autometer 5" monster tach w/ a water temp gauge
Cobra hood
Brand new Bullitt wheels and Goodyear tires
And a bigger cam(couldn't tell brand or size, but it seems pretty big)

Now I must add there is one thing wrong with the car (besides the stupid Air bag light always on)...Looking at the water temp gauge it doesn't seem to stay too cool. I heard that there was a recall on some sensor in the radiator??? Not too sure, but if i'm moving i'm fine, it's when i cruise around town and stop all the time i hit the 200-210 range and I don't like that. Should i bother with a dealership or should i just buy some aftermarket electric fans??? I know flexalite has one for $210...but i don't really feel like spending that much money ( i spend enough on gas and insurance ). I found some on websites for around $80-120 and you can get a t-stat for 20 bucks more. Does anybody buy these or are they junk?

The car came with new Ford Racing wires and some plugs, a fuel filter, and a bigger Ford Racing fuel pump.

Now, i've changed a fuel filter on my firebird before, and it wasn't too bad, are they hard on the 5.0's to do by yourself?...Jiffy lube wants $55.

Correct me if i'm wrong, but isn't the fuel pump on the 5.0's actually in the fuel tank? One more thing, (on the fuel pump note) Sometimes it takes a while to turn over, from what i hear, the stock fuel pump isn't big enough with the few mods so once i put the bigger FP on, it will supply more fuel and faster to turn over right away.? Or, could it just take some time because of the cam?

Sorry about the book I wrote, but i'm new to the mustang family and just have a few ?'s and I know how good Stangnet is with helping out. Thanks guys

BTW the stang listed below my member name is not mine, I let a buddy use my name for a while.
 

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#3
Definitely go get the recall done since it's free. Don't bother with aftermarket fans, since our stock one's are plenty enough. If you feel you need more cooling power, either get an aluminum radiator or do the fan mod in the sticky at the top of the forum. Also get a 180* Tstat from Autozone for like 5 bucks. Changing the fuel pump on our cars isn't bad, but it's frustrating. There is a special tool you need to take off the fuel lines that you can get at any parts store. Getting the filler neck out of the tank is the hardest part of the install. Make sure you have an empty tank when you do it though because it can get pretty heavy.

edit: also, that 75mm throttle body might be a little big for your combo. If you have the stock throttle body still, I would put it back on. Good luck with your new little bundle of joy!
 
#4
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#5
HA. i'm working on the pics!!!! believe me the battery on the digital camera is charging as i type. Actually the TB is 70mm, sorry about that. Now if i get a 180* thermostat, will that do anything without getting the recall done? Now i have another question, with the CAI, the intake manifold, the bigger tb, shouldn't i get a mass air meter?, cause the one on there is stock, it might be ported but still, i think i need to throw a granetelli on there.

By the way, do these cars have "low fuel" lights on them?
 
#6
Do the recall and the 180* thermostat. No low fuel light on these ponies. If you do get another MAF, dont get granatelli, get a Pro-M 80mm. You don't really need another MAF right now, much like the 70mm throttle body, but if you are going to change the cylinder heads later, there's no problem with getting parts early.
 
#9
If whoever owned the car before you didn't put a cooler stat (160 or 180) with underdrive pulley's then it will run hot. It's mandatory with pulley's. Oh and not all 94-95's are eligible for the recall (mine wasn't). It is VIN# specific. Also if you do qualify and your car is 10+ years old most likely they won't touch it. If your meter is chrome it's probably a Pro-M 75MM calibrated for 24# injectors. A 70MM is stock.
 
#10
My sig is not actually my car, its a buddy of mine who used my member name on here a while back. So, I do not have underdrive pulleys, i've read about them and hear that they don't do too much though, this true? Or if i were to by them, they say steeda (i believe) are the most expensive, but best.

About the thermostat, if i were to put a 160* stat in my car, would it actually stay at and below 160 with the recall (don't know yet if the recall applies to my vin #), but say there is a recall on my particular car, would a lower t-stat do anything without getting the reall fixed?

My MAF is stock, it says FORD on it, I just think it would help out a little to get a aftermarket one, since i have the TB and CAI, right?

One more thing, i was thinking that maybe I have 24lb injectors seeing that it has a little motor work done ( i don't know though), but if my Mass air meter is STOCK, then i probably have stock 19lb injectors too ,correct?

***NOW MY SIG IS CORRECT***
 
#14
You might need to change the Coolant Temp Sensor. That was causing my overheating problems. I changed to a 160* t-stat and had the fan recall done but neither one helped.
 
#16
Low-5.0 said:
You might need to change the Coolant Temp Sensor. That was causing my overheating problems. I changed to a 160* t-stat and had the fan recall done but neither one helped.
Click to expand...


So the coolant temp sensor stopped from overheating, and the stat and recall didn't do anything, but it's not overheating now is it?
 
#17
need2goFAST said:
So the coolant temp sensor stopped from overheating, and the stat and recall didn't do anything, but it's not overheating now is it?
Click to expand...

My problem was the fan wouldn't turn on. As a temporary fix I just ran the defrost all the time, because this kicks on the a/c which causes the fan to run on high speed. The computer uses the coolant temp sensor to know when to turn the fan on. It only cost about $10-$15 at Advance Auto, took maybe 20 minutes to change. But you need to use sealant on the threads so you cant run the engine for about an hour or so after installing it.

Oh yeah, I think the t-stat helped some, but I didn't notice anything after the recall. But it could also have been a combination of all three giving me a problem. :shrug:
 
#19
The fuel filter is about a 2 min job!!! Jack up the back of the car and look behind the gas tank and it's right there. Just pop the two white clips off and undo the clamp and it's comes out. My frickin girlfriend could probably change it if I showed her where it was!! Doesn't get any easier than that!
 
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