MY FIRST STANG!!!!!!!!

[CManT1914]

So, I do not have underdrive pulleys, i've read about them and hear that they don't do too much though, this true? Or if i were to by them, they say steeda (i believe) are the most expensive, but best.

Actually, the pullies helped me quite a bit. Definitely worth $80. And, pullies are pullies, if you buy Steeda, you're paying for the name. I got some BBK ones and they work great. The only real difference in pullies is some are steel some are aluminum. Some are chrome, some are black. But they all work about the same. And no, I don't think our cars have low fuel lights. Mine never came on when I ran out of gas anyway.

 

[ProKiller]

put a manual fan switch on the fan. I wouldn't bother with the recall. put a 180* t-stat in there. and put some pics up

 

[need2goFAST]

Pics are coming tonight hopefully!

Anyways, about the fan/overheating problem...

I was driving to the highway this morning on my way to work, (about 2 miles) and my car never even hit 180, but it was cool outside. I get on the highway and of course for the first time in 3 months there is bad traffic. So i'm not moving anywhere and my water temp gauge gets to the 210-215 range and i had to get off the next exit and take backroads to work just to keep the thing moving and air flowing to cool it down a bit.

On the way home, same thing, on the way to the highway i hit 200*, on the highway i was doing about 75-80mph and i dropped all the way down to 175-180*, but then as soon as i got off and sat at traffic lights i hit 200 again.

I'm gonna go try and take some pics now for ya guys!

 

[wytstang]

Actually it normal for them to run 200*-215* area. So it's not that bad hell mine sometimes reaches the A in normal while sitting at a light(stock gauge).

 

[squall9393]

I don't care what anyone says. The stock fan is a POS and an aftermarket is way more efficient.

 

[need2goFAST]

Yeah i was looking into a flexalite fan, but i dont wanna fork out the $220 right this minute. I just talked to my buddy (owns a ford dealership) and he said that 200-215 is not bad at all, he said he was doing a burnout in his '91 notch and his gauge in the middle of the burnout read about 250-260, then he just kept goin after the burnout and she cooled back down.

About these pullies-> do you need a special tool to take the stock one off and or put the aftermarket ones on?

I have a set of autolite spark plugs that are for the 5.0's...now do they come gapped or do i have to gap them?...if so what is the right gap???

I would also like to buy a new d cap and rotor, can i buy them from MSD or do i have to have a MSD distributor.

By the way, the guy with the '91 notch and a few other stangs took me for a ride tonight in MY OWN car. I hate to ask this but have you guys ever had somebody drive your own car better than yourself? ha, well i don't really care because i just bought the thing and i'm not perfect in it yet, but DAMN, he just made my own car feel ten times faster!!!

One more thing...when you put your car on a dyno, what exactly can you get out of it? i understand hp and torque and all of that, but do they actually do a little tuning when its on there?

Sorry about the long thread and so many questions, i'm just new to the family and a little curious, thanks

 

[95WhiteVenom]

I went from a 87 IROC-Z Last year they offered the 305 TPI to a stock 95 cobra believe me man mustangs are well worth it.

 

[wytstang]

Pulleys- the only special tool you need a a ride to autozone so they can take off your alt. pulley for you(impact gun).
Cap and rotor- you can use the MSD one on a stock dist. or the Accell one is good too.
NOBODY but ME drives MY CAR. O.K maybe two of my friends have driven but they are both cops and have had stangs before.

 

[need2goFAST]

Pulleys- the only special tool you need a a ride to autozone so they can take off your alt. pulley for you(impact gun).
Cap and rotor- you can use the MSD one on a stock dist. or the Accell one is good too.
NOBODY but ME drives MY CAR. O.K maybe two of my friends have driven but they are both cops and have had stangs before.

HA! i had to let him, he let me drive his '91 notch, his '89 supercharged bla bla bla 11 second car, and his 65 shelby.

 

[Venom351R]

Oh and not all 94-95's are eligible for the recall (mine wasn't). It is VIN# specific. Also if you do qualify and your car is 10+ years old most likely they won't touch it. .

Mine qualified for the fan recall, I got it done in early sept.

 

[CManT1914]

need2go, for the pullies all you need are some basic tools. A 3/8 ratchet (i think it's a 3/8) you need it for the belt tensioner, you put it in the hole in the tensioner so you can loosen it. The only other thing is an impact wrench. They're real easy. Might be a good idea to replace the belt while you got it off. I didn't originally and it started squealing real bad. I ended up wishing I had replaced it to begin with a month down the road.

 

[need2goFAST]

Sounds good to me, I still have to put my bigger fuel pump on and a couple of other little things.

I have one last question as of now, and that has to do with plugs and wires.

I have some 9mm Ford Racing spark plug wires, and just some basic motorcraft plugs. The guy at napa told me to gap them at .054, so i did.

I have yet to put them in (til tommorrow), but i was just wondering if you guys knew of a site with a diagram or could just help me out with where these wires go. The wire i have are numbered (1-8)....how do the numbers run along the motor as far as which number goes to which plug?

I also bought a new cap and rotor and plan on doing this all over the weekend, but don't have a manual yet to list the numbers for the wires and plugs. Thanks!

->by the way, where in the world is the pcv valve on these things?..i bought a new one of those too. ha