What to replace after sitting for 6 years?
- Thread starter jstang209
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All the fluids and the battery. The old fuel has probally become solid. You might want to wiggle the crank back and forth a little to break any deposits that have petrafied.
I looked into this because I was going to marry this girl who's uncle had a '87 GNX that hadn't been started since '92, and was going to give/sell it to her.
I looked into this because I was going to marry this girl who's uncle had a '87 GNX that hadn't been started since '92, and was going to give/sell it to her.
Ray III
New Member
Get under back of car, remove fuel filter, run fuel pump until all old fuel is purged. Fill tank with 5 gallons of fresh fuel, preferably with a fuel system cleaner, install new fuel filter, disconnect high pressure line at engine fuel rail (will need appropriate disconnect tool) and run pump until about 1/2 quart of fuel is run out.
Replace battery and clean terminals.
Drain old engine oil and change filter and fill halfway with new oil. Prime lubrication system. Start engine and bring up to operating temperature, watching in engine bay for obvious problems. Drain oil, fill completely with new oil.
Extract a sample of the coolant in the radiator into a bottle; if you see particles or unnatural color then flush cooling system and refill with new. Otherwise check state of freeze protection with coolant tester and add antifreeze as necessary.
Change transmission fluid and rearend oil.
Check tire condition and air pressure.
Roll the car to break loose the brakes, then drive the car around with the brakes partially applied to shine them up or whatever you are able to do to clean them up. Remove wheels and inspect brake condition. Some pads or shoes will likely need replacement; look closely for lining separation.
Some engine sensors may have gone bad and need replacement, if you notice something funny with the gauges or how the engine runs.
Replace battery and clean terminals.
Drain old engine oil and change filter and fill halfway with new oil. Prime lubrication system. Start engine and bring up to operating temperature, watching in engine bay for obvious problems. Drain oil, fill completely with new oil.
Extract a sample of the coolant in the radiator into a bottle; if you see particles or unnatural color then flush cooling system and refill with new. Otherwise check state of freeze protection with coolant tester and add antifreeze as necessary.
Change transmission fluid and rearend oil.
Check tire condition and air pressure.
Roll the car to break loose the brakes, then drive the car around with the brakes partially applied to shine them up or whatever you are able to do to clean them up. Remove wheels and inspect brake condition. Some pads or shoes will likely need replacement; look closely for lining separation.
Some engine sensors may have gone bad and need replacement, if you notice something funny with the gauges or how the engine runs.
Whytry91
New Member
jstang209 said:
Uh....yeah, The important ones anyways, but since you are in there, you'd might as well, do them all
- Jul 17, 2001
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Be sure and pull out the sensor in the coolant bottle, and file off all that white powdery chalky stuff on the terminals.
That way your check coolant light wont come on.
That way your check coolant light wont come on.
What kind of car is it if i may ask? Your probabbly gonna want to change the tires and the belts also they are probabbly dry rotted. The air box for mice etc.. Hoses.
nito88stang
Founding Member
Also take a good look at the bushings. Not needed to drive teh car but something that probably would need replacing or greasing.
moonenn3186
Founding Member
After changing the fluids I always (from now on) add the "Seal Renew" or "Stop Leak" in the all the fluids they make it for. For instance I drain the tranny, PS, coolant, oil and rear end before startup - then add the stop leak and replace the fluids - then prime the engine (this is after lowering, unhooking and draining the fuel tank and replaing the fuel filter. I have also put some diesel fuel in each cylinder a day or two before I plan to crank it. THis will probably foul the plugs immediatly so I recommed leaving in the old ones for initial fire. After it fires and runs for awhile - replace the plugs and wires.
I have done this the quick way a few times and have always had seal problems otherwise. And I have done a lot of junk yard/farm yard resurections!
I have done this the quick way a few times and have always had seal problems otherwise. And I have done a lot of junk yard/farm yard resurections!
I've fired up cars right off the bat that sat that long.
ideally, you could pull the dist and prime it with a drill, since that engine is pretty dry by now.
my brothers 86 sat for 7 years. expect absolutely everything minor that has any rubber in it to go out. He replaced his radiator, all hoses, p/s pump, all p/s lines, then the trans because the trans seals rotted, real wheel bearings, rear end, crap, everything. (water pump is still good amazingly)Not to scare you, but a car usually sits because it's been neglected for a while, so expect a project for about a year after you get it running for stuff to stop breaking.
ideally, you could pull the dist and prime it with a drill, since that engine is pretty dry by now.
my brothers 86 sat for 7 years. expect absolutely everything minor that has any rubber in it to go out. He replaced his radiator, all hoses, p/s pump, all p/s lines, then the trans because the trans seals rotted, real wheel bearings, rear end, crap, everything. (water pump is still good amazingly)Not to scare you, but a car usually sits because it's been neglected for a while, so expect a project for about a year after you get it running for stuff to stop breaking.
giddyup306
Founding Member
- Oct 22, 2002
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You may want to run a very small amount of diesel fuel through your engine with a full tank (only a few ounces). This will clean up some dirt, glick, and yuckity puck that has accumulated over the years. All of your fuel additives designed for cleaning are nothing more than "petrolium distilates".
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