Took car for a dynotune today!

I took my car to Dannys Pro Performance today to get the car dynotuned because i couldnt figure out my problem with the car...


1st run was how i brought the car in there.
295 RWHP and 335 RWTQ

After checking my timing ... Air/fuel, they found out that my timing was set at 4 degrees!! They bumped the timing back to 10 and changed my fuel pressure from 32 to 45

307 RWHP and 346 RWTQ

They then let the car cool down for 20 minutes and happened to check my blower belt and it was kinda loose..... they put this stuff called VHT Trackbite on my pulley and belt to make sure it didnt slip. (good trick this place does)

final run was 335 HP and 360 torque.. That stuff that they put on my belt gave me 3 more pounds of boost which made it total at 10.... The air/fuel they told me is where i am having a problem.... after 4500, it is leaning itself out. they think that its ebcause of my fuel pump being stock, that its not getting enough volume and is leaning out... I will put a 255 pump in tomorrow and take it back thurs for another dynotune..

here is the air fuel for my 3rd pull

2500=12.2:1 3000=11.8 3500=11.4 4Krpm=10.8 4500=11.0 5K=11.7 5500=12.6 6K=13.6 6200=13.8

sorry i dont have a scanner for the graph

what do you guys think?? i have 24 injectors and an afpr soo my fuel system is up to par except for the pump.. is that the only reason that it is leaning out?? When the motor is warm, the car does ping up top soo i am not going to beat it untill i get the pump done and put on the dyno again

for 130 bucks 40 hp came pretty good! lol
 
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Those AFR numbers aren't too bad at all. I thought you'd said you were getting an AFR of around 17 at the top end. It'd be nice to have it hover around 11.5 to redline... you don't have far to go.
 
im dumb..... i have a digital camera soo i took a picture of my power and air fuel now!! the lower 3 lines is my air/fuel

picture_139.jpg
 
That on stock heads? Pretty good. I think you definatly could use some more fuel. I would do the fuel pump ASAP, that is just dangerous. Your injectors are probally maxxed out, maby 30+'s would be a good investment, but for now get that 255 in there.

I need to get mine dyno tuned. I've played with the fuel pressure and timing and just can't find a good setting. It will probally be one of the next things I do.
 
Great!!! i put the 255 pump in and everything was going great.. 20 minutes later, the car doesnt wanna rev past 5 pounds of boost and 4K rpms... as if something is holding it back and its revving real slow!! i wonder what the hell the problem could be now??? I was supposed to get it redynoed fri, but i think im gonna try and see if they can squeeze me in tomorrow
 
FiVeLiTeR87GT said:
Great!!! i put the 255 pump in and everything was going great.. 20 minutes later, the car doesnt wanna rev past 5 pounds of boost and 4K rpms... as if something is holding it back and its revving real slow!! i wonder what the hell the problem could be now??? I was supposed to get it redynoed fri, but i think im gonna try and see if they can squeeze me in tomorrow

Don't get into a hurry man, you're almost there. If you've got dyno time coming, I think you should wait for it so that you can see what's going on. I'd hate to hear that you ended up leaning on it and broke it when holding off one more day for the dyno would have made it all right. The dyno graph will tell the whole story and help keep things from coming apart. They're probaly right up there about having a rich condition. What's 24 hours though?
 
very true.. the FMU wouldnt make the car run that rich would it?? i would hate to spend another 130 on the dyno for them to tell me that, and then ANOTHER 130 after i get a fmu recal kit and then back to the duyno.... if worse comes to worse, can they get the car to run right with NO FMU at all??
 
Since it just started doing all this nose over/bog stuff, what do the plugs look like? right after it does that, shut the car down and pull a plug..?

You have a F/P guage you can see while the car is going at WOT?

Spare coil lying around, incase yours coincidentally decided "I can't spark under all these boost.. no more.. :( ". ?
 
FiVeLiTeR87GT said:
very true.. the FMU wouldnt make the car run that rich would it?? i would hate to spend another 130 on the dyno for them to tell me that, and then ANOTHER 130 after i get a fmu recal kit and then back to the duyno.... if worse comes to worse, can they get the car to run right with NO FMU at all??

Yes the FMU might part of the problem but since you don't have an AFR meter you won't know for sure till you get it on the Dyno. $130 is cheap insurance to make sure you don't blow it all up. It may be something as simple as adjusting fuel pressure or timing. Now is not the time to take shortcuts. Again... YOU'RE ALMOST THERE! Why mess around with disconnecting the FMU now then find out the hard way that the 24 lb injectors can't carry the load alone? With the numbers you posted from your last dyno, it's a pretty safe assumption that your 24s WILL NOT support over 350 FWHP. If it is too much and you have to recal it to send less fuel then what better way to find out for sure than to get it back onto the Dyno? You're going to need the FMU. What ratio will you need? Find out on the Dyno.
 
question for ya... a half an hr the car was running perfect after the pump.. then something happened and driveability sucks.. it studders to take off, barely revs up high, and what i noticed now, the starter will crank for about 10 seconds until it actually fires.... could i have fouled my plugs out from running rich that half hour?? during that half hour i drove the car prtty hard because it didnt ping or anything anymore and it pulled real nice.... all that totally changed...

anyhow i will change my plugs before i put it on the dyno at 3 tomorrow.... i also recalled my FMU to 6:1
 
IMO, I can't see the pump making that big a diff with the same injectors and stuff.. you had a lean condition under boost before, and that [255 pump] should have fixed it.. and at part throttle its not gonna throw everything THAT outta whack unless you cranked up fuel pressure 10 PSI same time as changing the pump..

Everything went good with the pump install? The little high pressure hose that goes from the pump to the hanger unit itself... you tightened up both hose clamps on it? [wonder if its loosing a bunch of pressure in there maybe?]

If not, and the pumps working good.. and fuel pressure is there at WOT, I vote it's an ignition prob, not b/c of running too rich.. If not ignition.. then what about MAP or BAP sensor?? [whichever one the SD cars use??]. :shrug: