Installing lowering springs

04SilverStang

New Member
Aug 18, 2004
9
0
0
I'm in the process of trying to install eibach 1.5" lowering springs, but i cant find any decent diagrams or instructions on how to properly go about it. the ones provided in the kit from eibach are laughable.

any help would be greatly appreciated.
 
  • Sponsors (?)


I installed a biltsein tuned suspension on my 95 which dropped it an inch. Problem with going 1-1/2" is you are going to need some additional items. First you'll need cast & camber plates, second is a bump-steer kit to compensate for the drop in relationship to the steering assembly.

For removal you'll need a spring compressor for the fronts, not necessary in the rear cause you put a jack under the differential to hold the rear together. The process isn't to tough but quite involved. Unless you have the equipment and time (4-8 hrs) I recommend you have a shop install them.

If you want to do it yourself then get a haines or chiltons manual to help guide you. It will cost $15.00 and is good reference for any future repairs.

The whole process is involved and too hard to describe here. Don't want to miss something and cause you more problems.

Hope this helps :flag:
 
For a 1.5" drop, you DON'T need C/C plates. You will only need them if you go past 1.5 - 2.0". More like 2.0". You also DON'T HAVE TO get a bump steer kit. However, you should get new shocks and struts as the stockers won't last past six months on lowering springs.

For the front, remove the tires. Put a jack under the lower control arm. Unbolt your strut, and lower the control arms until the stock spring is loose. Careful with the brake lines. You might have to jack the car up pretty high in order to give yourself enough room to lower the arms. Keep lowering the arm until the spring is fairly loose. Don't stand right in front of the spring while you do this. Wiggle the spring out, and swap in your lowering spring & strut if you got them.

If you did get C/C plates, then scribe the stockers positions for reference later. Bolt the crap back up and raise the arms in order to get everything to fit.

For the rear, you'll have to unbolt the shock from inside the trunk and repeat the process you did for the front. You can use the rear axle to lower/raise the lower control arms though, and make sure you have a jack under the axle side you aren't working on a tthe moment. You may have to remove the rear calipers or brake lines if you find the brake lines are getting tight. You can also raise the opposinte side of the axle that you aren't working on in order to lower the end that you are working on.

As always, use the search button at the top right the next time you want to ask a question.